Where can I get longer wheel studs (1 Viewer)

[nolan2010]

I got an fj60 and some 10 inch wide wheels with a 1/4 in spacer.
The wheel studs aren't long enough to clamp them down enough for my liking.
I went to napa and they had no idea where to get them.

Anyone know where i can get a dozen?

And how hard of a job is it to replace all of them???

Pull the axle or is there a way around it?

I searched the FAQ and google and didnt find much.

 

[Kynot62]

Try another auto parts store one that is willing to offer some service or a tire shop may be able to help.

Why only a dozen? If you only have the spacers on the front, you only have to pull the wheel hub and press the studs in from the back side after you push out the studs. No big deal. Rear you have to pull the axle.

Tony

 

[ntsqd]

In a stud that is an exact replacement for the OE front studs only longer, they don't exist as far as my fairly involved investigation tells me. I tried to get ARP to make them, but not enough folks were interested to make the price per set reasonable.

Supposedly there is a racing stud from Moroso or similar that nearly works like stock, but has SAE threads not metric threads. There's a thread on those floating around here somewhere.

 

[Mark W]

I have found what you are looking for. Aftermarket, parts store item. One of my buddies who is a Toyota parts guy came up with them for me. They only work with the studs that go through the hub but not the rotor however. or, of course, in the rear. They are almost 1/2 inch longer then OEM. Let me see if I can get a part number or application from him.


These will not work on an FJ60 front end unless you swap to the older wheel hub and brake rotor setup though.

Edit: These are Toyota studs from a different application, available through aftermarket as well. Trying to verify the application... will take a couple of days before he can mess with it.

Mark...

 

[kling-on]

Ck out et lug nuts they have a 1/4 in shank that what I use on mine

 

[nolan2010]

The front is what i'm doing.
They have the wheel spacers.
I can get all the lugs on and tight but there just not getting much bight.
I can't find much yet, I'm gonna do some calling around.
Thanks guys.

 

[nolan2010]

I think I'm just going with an extended thread lug nut.

 

[t_tentech]

If you are using the spacers to get the wheels to clear the calipers then all you have to do is grind on the calipers. It doesn't take a whole lot. I did it last week to fit some rockcrawlers on my 60.

 

[ntsqd]

Speaking as a former brake design engineer, that is a bad idea.
Speaking as someone who has had to replace a caliper while on the road, that is a bad idea.

 

[zidaro]

here ya go
ARP 100-7715 - ARP Wheel Studs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

[ntsqd]

The shoulder on those might work, but it doesn't fit correctly.

 

[nolan2010]

Thanks guys.

 

[Mark W]

The shoulder on those might work, but it doesn't fit correctly.

Have you used/tried these?


Mark...

 

[ntsqd]

I have not. I have made a detailed SW model, Engineering drawing, & pdf of the OE stud (one that I removed during a rotor R&R) and compared that to the published dimensions of every possible candidate stud that I could find. The OE stud has a very unusual shoulder shape, one that I have found no other stud to even come close to resembling. The OD of the shoulder where it passes thru the rotor is different from that where it passes the flange on the wheel hub. The difference isn't large, but there is a difference. Worse, few of the aftermarket studs have a shoulder that is anywhere near as long as the OE stud. The longest shouldered stud that I can recall finding has a 0.9" long shoulder. The OE's shoulder is 1.344" long. Nearly a 1/2" short which means that an aftermarket stud's shoulder might not even engage the stud hole of the wheel hub.

 

[Tinker]

Rob -

Can you convert to mm to see what nominal dimensions Toyota intended?

And have you tried to get extended studs priced from CNC shops? I have a friend with one who specializes in classic dirt bike restoration: quite sure he could make them but no idea what they'd run apiece.

 

[shibubba]

I run 10" wide wheels with 1/4" spacers and have no issues at all.there is 1/2 an inch of thread poking out.

 

[pappy]

I run these on the rear. Don't think they will work on the front. The part number is 90942-02079.

 

[ntsqd]

The reason that I have that pdf is because I asked ARP for a quote. At a qty of 48 of them their really rough guess was $900 at the time that I asked. Granted, ARP isn't the least expensive source, but for extended studs I wanted to know that they were right. Keep calling Dorman and asking for them. If we generate enough demand maybe they'll make them.

The difference that keeps seeming to be forgotten every time this topic comes up is that not everyone uses a steel wheel. With a steel wheel I'd be surprised if there was a problem unless you're trying to run some outrageous shim spacer size. Alloy wheels are a whole different set of constraints.

 

[Tinker]

ARP has a 1-1/2" version (no idea if the profile is correct): 100-7713. My machinist buddy thought about $20/ea for 12 at 2-3/4" long. Dunno if that includes heat treating, though.

He didn't know if there's a forum to put RFQs out for CAM work. NT, do you know?

 

[ntsqd]

No idea either, though when contacted ARP I was told that they had nothing like them in their library of wheel studs, both those that are cataloged and those that are customs.

According to 2011 ARP Catalog the shoulder length on the 100-7713's is 0.315", which is ~1.030" too short. I don't know which p/n that stud in the illustration that most looks like it would work, but the longest listed shoulder length is 1.00" which may or may not work but I'm inclined to say no as the wheel hub flange thickness is nearly the missing shoulder length.

I am quite sure that there is such a forum, but I've no idea what it's URL might be. If I were going to have some made I would specify that they be rolled threads rather than cut, and that they be made from 17-4 H900 and always, always, always use anti-seize.

EDIT: Looking at the next page past the ARP page linked above if you wanted to step up to a 5/8-18 thread size the 300-7730 looks like it might work.