What would you do?

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mybluetoy

mybluetoy

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
346
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Website
www.unemployedfilms.com
Alright I am, have been thinking of what my FJ40 wants to be, or what I want it to be. It is a 1972 with a rear SR, front disc brakes, power steering, SBC, and sits on 33" A/Ts. First the facts, I have little cash to spend. What would you do, eventually I want 37" tires, SOA, a different roll bar that would include seat mounts. Really just looking for what would be smart and inexpensive to do at this time. I want it to be a 50/50, 50% on the road, 50% off the road. Please explain the pros and cons of the mod. Thanks.
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Hard top and doors so that the '50/50' driving can be done 100% of the time.

Shoulder belts.
 
First, make sure it's safe for on-road use. Check/repair the brakes and steering so you can drive it on the road now. Driving it now will help you find all the other areas that need attention or modified to suit what you need or want.

By the way, nice rig. Just guessing, but it may not take a lot to make sure it is highway safe.

Don
 
bumpers

get a metal tec to build you some custom bumpers that will guard your lights off road and be proper on the street.

also the front bumper on mine has dimond plate deck so i can stand over my engine /winch. it also has a mounted 9mill box for storage and a custom removable brush guard.

pics as soon as i find my charger if wanted

also full square rollcage if you get a hard top
 
mybluetoy said:
Alright I am, have been thinking of what my FJ40 wants to be, or what I want it to be. It is a 1972 with a rear SR, front disc brakes, power steering, SBC, and sits on 33" A/Ts. First the facts, I have little cash to spend. What would you do, eventually I want 37" tires, SOA, a different roll bar that would include seat mounts. Really just looking for what would be smart and inexpensive to do at this time.
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What would be smart and inexpensive would be to do a detailed spreadsheet with costs for whatever you're planning. Figure it's going to cost twice as much as you want it to cost and you'll be close. If you don't have the cash, don't tear it apart. Drive it instead.

Find some used 2.5" lift springs, stock shackles and new leaf spring bushings. I'll bet it's twitchy as it sits.
 
I'd put the time and money into making sure everything about the rig works the way it should and the rig is street legal, tune up/ rebuild what ever needs it, replace worn out parts, leaky seals, etc. After you work all the issues out of the rig, then start with a locker in the rear diff (and the front if funds allow), then go for a spring over, new cage, transmission and or transfer case swap if need be and so on.
 
i'd probly do a rear locker and roll cage first. also you could look into doing some tube fenders up front.

if your tires are still good i'd hold off on the SOA and 37's until you need the tires. hold off on gears until your on 37's so you still have a decent top speed.
 
I'd rethink the 50/50 claim. It will really be more like 80/20 unless you are trailering it to the OHV park. If it is really 80/20 then concentrate on the 80 and get a top and doors and go for the safety items. Then when you do the 20 offroad, see where your limitations are and then design a fix and cost it out. It may be that you just avoid the trail that requires LiL Johns drive train. There are plenty of fun and challenging trails that don't require an ARB catalog under your rig.
 
Lots of great input, thanks. I should have included some of the info here in my first post, sorry. I do have a hard-top along with full doors. The engine was rebuilt about 3,200 miles, just did the brakes. Your right Don, it is high-way safe minus the shoulder belt. It drives very nice down the road, but the off road needs some improvements. Gus, I have gone through about everything to make sure it is tight and works properly. I live in Michigan, so the ride is in storage from Nov. 1 until May 1, this gives me time to do a few mods over the winter, but I am a full time student so money is tight. Shoulder belts are going to happen soon, I like to know I am safe, just in case. Please keep the info coming.
 
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luzercruiser said:
get a metal tec to build you some custom bumpers that will guard your lights off road and be proper on the street.

also the front bumper on mine has dimond plate deck so i can stand over my engine /winch. it also has a mounted 9mill box for storage and a custom removable brush guard.

pics as soon as i find my charger if wanted

also full square rollcage if you get a hard top
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Yes please definitely some pics! When you can. I love pics.

Great idea Fast Eddy on the spread sheet, yeah I have found out it is always closer to double.

Madinal your right, I don't need LiL Johns drive train around Michigan. Mine will work just fine, but I do appreciate the offer LiL John.
 
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Do what makes you happy and satisfied! I agree on getting that rig topped and doored. Nice looking truck! Mine currently has no motor, no body, and I have little time to play:frown:
What ever you do, try to do it yourself and find someone to enjoy the time with!
 
Depends on how much cash you have to spend. If a "little cash" is 500 bones, you get a locker, a sweet shift knob from Auto Zone, a dashboard hula girl, plus some fuel to wheel. If you have 5 grand, then there is a ton of things you can do, which include the 37's, cage, SOA, etc. Just according to your amount of $ to spend.
 
slvrbck said:
Depends on how much cash you have to spend. If a "little cash" is 500 bones, you get a locker, a sweet shift knob from Auto Zone, a dashboard hula girl, plus some fuel to wheel. If you have 5 grand, then there is a ton of things you can do, which include the 37's, cage, SOA, etc. Just according to your amount of $ to spend.
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I have about 800-1000 to spend. Didn't think about the hula girl.lol
 
slvrbck said:
I'll give you two free mod's you can do right fast. Flip that damn bezel and chop the ends of that 100 ft long bumper off!!:lol: Both will make your rig wheel exponentially better.
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You mean like this, that pic with the 100' bumper, and the reversed bezel was that way when bought, its on the PO. Thanks, because that is what I am looking for some inexpensive mods.
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That is much better. Seems several of the expensive type mod's have already been handled, i.e. SBC/power steering. Lil John is right on with ARB's, but he also brings up a good point. What type of wheeling do you do? Are you going to wheel enough to be able to justify $800 dollar a piece ARB's? With 800-1000 to spend, I'd go with a pair of Aussie's or Lockrite's. That will put you at around 500 or so. If your mechanical skills are pretty decent, the install is easy enough, and no drilling/routing of ARB lines, etc.

That leaves you with a few more bucks to spend. I'd go to a junkyard and find a set of comfy seats and get rid of the buckboards that are in it. You could find some decent ones for 50-100 bucks. Shoulder belts can be found at one of these fine establishments as well.

Mount a jerry can on it for some extra fuel and haul ass to the trails!!:cheers:
 
Really appreciate all the input. I talked with a friend and we're going to add some tubing to protect the body, lights and so forth, and we're going to give it a full cage. Also I am going to get some seats, because the ones I have do the job but are uncomfortable. After that I'm thinking a rear locker. Please keep the input a coming on inexpensive mods. I will refer to this thread as to what I should consider next. Thanks again for the input.
 
why not just run it as it is :confused: at least for a while

wheel it some and learn what it can do, then you have a much better appreciation of what you really need :steer:
 
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