approximately 89lb of bondo.... mostly on the left side for the balance...It will buff out nice...( Just joking)
What would you do with this 40?
- Thread starter jesus888
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That's what happens when you install the bezel upside-down.
Part it out. You have some hard to find parts that can make you some money back and go to a cruiser in need. Horn button, switches, hardtop glass, Guage cluster. You name it and someone is looking for those parts.
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- #24
I guess I may see what Ol’ Blue is missing first… and then see what’s left… that may be the course of action…
Yard art...... flower pot / bird bath. Then pull parts as needed👍. Was this found in Virginia City/Ennis MT?
That backup light might just pay for the whole rig 😂.
I love watching a good resurrection as much as the next nut, but I don’t know. That thing is twisted seven ways to Sunday. I’m thinking maybe this thing might be a pile of parts. Good luck with your choice.
The backup light, jump seats, entire front end and motor/trans/transfer would be easy sales.
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- #30
Tell me more
A bit tongue in cheek, there’ve been threads on the rarity of these lights (so the potential for high $) but I think the rare year is ‘73, not ‘70.
Agree nothing special about that backup light. 73 model is the rare one, especially with an intact lens. Prices I've would probably buy the whole truck.
Would love to find a decent 70 F155 for my 70 which sadly the original owner pulled and replaced it with a 2F in 1975. He told me the F155 had burned an exhaust valve and he bought a 2F that was pulled out of a brand new 75 for a V8 conversion. Today while not as nice as the 2F would be rather have the original engine.
I would be rebuilding it, those early frames are incredibly stout and I do not see any damage that I would think could impact the frame. Looks like a lot of sheet metal damage and not all that bad. When I look at what is for sale for less then $5k, it is not much and usually in very poor shape.
The drivers seat hold down clamps for example. The rear bench seats are not cheap. Even just the frames. Heater parts. The rear hatch struts. That yellow 40 looks pretty much complete which sucks.
Are there any seat belts hidden in there? Is there a tool roll or a jack in the under seat toolbox? I'm a purist so I'd be using that yellow one for period correct bolts and hardware, etc.
- Thread starter
- #35
Like I said... once I'm done with my 62 (in my signature) I'll probably work on getting the yellow one back home (from my sister in laws) as the Ol' Blue Eyes gets a spot in the garage and get them both cleaned up/sorted and get under them both to really see what's going on.
I'm not sure I'm a fan of the 305 V8 in Ol' Blue eyes but I've only gotten it running (with junk exhaust) so I won't know much until I tear into them... may use the yellow drivetrain in the blue one, but may opt for something at least a little more modern (not sure of advantages/disadvantages of 2F vs 155F, but I'll get my reading done before I make any moves...
I'm not sure I'm a fan of the 305 V8 in Ol' Blue eyes but I've only gotten it running (with junk exhaust) so I won't know much until I tear into them... may use the yellow drivetrain in the blue one, but may opt for something at least a little more modern (not sure of advantages/disadvantages of 2F vs 155F, but I'll get my reading done before I make any moves...
Biggest shame I see is this week was left uncovered for years.
As for the frame, would inspect the front of the side rails closely. While bumper is thinner metal it still attached to the ends of the frame. Check alignment to the tow hooks. Check the angles on the front crossmember match on both sides. Even if your plan to restore it front clip and tub will be coming off. Would strip all sheet metal and check the frame closely before starting. Bent frame doesn't automatically means it trash. Just want to straighten it first thing versus after you bolted the new body on. In this case the rusted rear sill would be an advantage. Instead of tub trying to twist the frame. If you look across the bottom of the barn doors you they angle down, being lowest were they meet. Mostly was the opposite before the accident.
The green at the end is original with a rusted sill. The latch for the barn doors barely closes because the ends are further apart.
As for the frame, would inspect the front of the side rails closely. While bumper is thinner metal it still attached to the ends of the frame. Check alignment to the tow hooks. Check the angles on the front crossmember match on both sides. Even if your plan to restore it front clip and tub will be coming off. Would strip all sheet metal and check the frame closely before starting. Bent frame doesn't automatically means it trash. Just want to straighten it first thing versus after you bolted the new body on. In this case the rusted rear sill would be an advantage. Instead of tub trying to twist the frame. If you look across the bottom of the barn doors you they angle down, being lowest were they meet. Mostly was the opposite before the accident.
The green at the end is original with a rusted sill. The latch for the barn doors barely closes because the ends are further apart.
- Thread starter
- #37
Excellent information
Long shot, but is the axle(a) locked or disc? There’s the obvious small things specific to that generation. If it had the right mods they could be worth something as well.
- Thread starter
- #39
Not sure but I'll check next month when I get it home... I don't think so... on either question.
Sell me the license plate! Really, I want that.
