What size is "lock nut" in front axle hub?
- Thread starter tom.
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dgangle
total rice
not sure on a 100-series but one could always use a chisel and hammer
54mm...you're talking about the two huge nuts right? lol
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2 1/8 socket crosses over just fine! Sears sells a 3/4" drive...I use it with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter for my 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar (since I don't have a collection of 3/4" handles).
Most places (Slee, Cruiser Outfitters, etc.) sell a hub socket. It's by no means pretty, 1/2" drive, cheap (~$15), but it works.
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Thanks.
I have got a problem with front wheels, they are so wobbly that I can hear brake pads banging on brake disc when driving on bumpy roads and click noise each time breaks are applied. I think that previous owner probably done bearing repack but did not apply specified torque on adjusting nut and lock nut. I would like to get to them and maybe do outer bearing repack. Do I need to change gasket, lock washer and claw washer or they can be reused?
Maybe you have got any other suggestion what can cause front wheels wobble?
I am almost sure that the problem is somewhere in the axe hub.
I have got a problem with front wheels, they are so wobbly that I can hear brake pads banging on brake disc when driving on bumpy roads and click noise each time breaks are applied. I think that previous owner probably done bearing repack but did not apply specified torque on adjusting nut and lock nut. I would like to get to them and maybe do outer bearing repack. Do I need to change gasket, lock washer and claw washer or they can be reused?
Maybe you have got any other suggestion what can cause front wheels wobble?
I am almost sure that the problem is somewhere in the axe hub.
Jack it up and see if you feel play...that'd be where I'd start. You'll probably need a new gasket for starters if you decide to redo the bearings/grease. If you get in there be sure to check to see if the PO got the races fully seated.
FYI: You're going to need a brass drift/hammer to knock the cone washers (be sure to leave the cone washer nuts in place to protect the stud threads) and a good circlip tool. And you'll need a steering knuckle puller unless you're only going to look at the outer bearings.
If the bearings are truly this loose I would say they're probably toast. Having seals, bearings and races on hand might be prudent if indeed your wheel rocking test points to the WB's. A footnote: Be sure to get the needle bearing that resides inside the hub adequately lubed...its an easy one to miss.
I use the same set-up for both my LC's.
A normal long 54 mm socket is often too thick. I.e. the outer diameter of the socket is to big to go into the hub. Hub nut sockets are often of the pressed pipe type. Not much force is needed anyhow.
In addition to what is mentioned above, one thing you have to change is the inner seal of the hub. It starts leaking when the bearings get only a bit of play, and thats the worst thing for your brakes. Check the inside of the brake disk.
FWIW, I think you can easily hear play in the hubs before the bearings are shot. Check them right away. Nice easy job, just takes a bit of time, accuracy and cleanliness.
In addition to what is mentioned above, one thing you have to change is the inner seal of the hub. It starts leaking when the bearings get only a bit of play, and thats the worst thing for your brakes. Check the inside of the brake disk.
FWIW, I think you can easily hear play in the hubs before the bearings are shot. Check them right away. Nice easy job, just takes a bit of time, accuracy and cleanliness.
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I would not drive the truck like that...
You've been driving Toyota's too long. Where is your sense of adventure ?
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- #13
Today I have checked my two front brakes. I have not done this before because my brake pads was changed few months ago. There are missing two full sets of Anti-squeal Shims, Pad Retainers, Pad Retainer Clips and probably Clips as well. I hope it did not make any damage to pistons and when fixed back it will resolve noise problem.
Well, I have a little mess on my hands. It seems that the lock washer gave out and let the adjusting nut back off enough to weld both the lock nut and the adjusting nut to the threads on the steering knuckle.
Anyone know any specifics on the steering knuckle threads? How much extra threads are there if I go the champher route?
I had no simptoms of loose bearings, I was just doing a brake check and noticed they were loose. FWIW it's been about 90,000 miles since anyone has been in here. The bearings and races didn't look bad at all, but I had to drill and chisel both nuts off of the spindle...no fun. The steering knuckle is about $600 if the threads are unfixable and I am sure there are many parts that should be replaced if I get in that deep.
Anyone know any specifics on the steering knuckle threads? How much extra threads are there if I go the champher route?
I had no simptoms of loose bearings, I was just doing a brake check and noticed they were loose. FWIW it's been about 90,000 miles since anyone has been in here. The bearings and races didn't look bad at all, but I had to drill and chisel both nuts off of the spindle...no fun. The steering knuckle is about $600 if the threads are unfixable and I am sure there are many parts that should be replaced if I get in that deep.
Can you get a little better focus on the pics to see what you're dealing with? Point your camera at the brake rotor and then swing over to the hub so it doesn't try to focus on the background, or put it on macro (flower symbol usually).
That sucks that the spindle is part of the whole arm, it's a separate and not that expensive piece on an 80 series knuckle.
Can you get a new nut to thread on there?
That sucks that the spindle is part of the whole arm, it's a separate and not that expensive piece on an 80 series knuckle.
Can you get a new nut to thread on there?
I'll try to shoot some better pictures in the daylight, but It's basically threads clogged with welded metal for about the first 1/8th of an inch of spindle threads. The locknut and adjustment nut backed themselves up to the flange. It was not easy chipping it away one mm at a time.
The new nuts are cheap <$3 with the ih8mud discount from Ralph Hayes Toyota over here on the east coast. They are on their way. Once they are here, I'll try to doctor up the threads as best I can. I sure hope I don't have to replace that whole knuckle...more bananas and $$ than I bargained for.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, South Florida Toyota Dealers suck. Nothing is ever in stock and they "don't sell tools to customers." I'll never try to source a part locally again. What a nightmare.
I always wanted to learn more about this front end...I guess I got my wish.
The new nuts are cheap <$3 with the ih8mud discount from Ralph Hayes Toyota over here on the east coast. They are on their way. Once they are here, I'll try to doctor up the threads as best I can. I sure hope I don't have to replace that whole knuckle...more bananas and $$ than I bargained for.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, South Florida Toyota Dealers suck. Nothing is ever in stock and they "don't sell tools to customers." I'll never try to source a part locally again. What a nightmare.
I always wanted to learn more about this front end...I guess I got my wish.
Weird. What I'm not getting is how it happened. The lock nuts don't spin while the vehicle is in motion, so where did the heat come from? If it was the hub, it should have taken the bearings out.
If you do have to file the threads down (or maybe cut them off with a pipe cutter) it looks like you've got enough threads left to securely hold the wheel on. But I'd be ridiculously careful, don't use power tools or grinders, so you don't bugger up the remaining threads and wind up needing a new arm.
If you do have to file the threads down (or maybe cut them off with a pipe cutter) it looks like you've got enough threads left to securely hold the wheel on. But I'd be ridiculously careful, don't use power tools or grinders, so you don't bugger up the remaining threads and wind up needing a new arm.
$315 from CDan by the time you get it shipped. I think that is pretty expensive.
As for the threads, use a file. I think they are called thread files but they have the different pitches built right into them. A friend of mine has a set. But when I went to borrow them he just pulled out a regular file and went to town on the splines with a single straight edged file. He fixes threads a lot as he is a mechanic and made short work out of it.
I swear Dave replaced his for ~$200, not cheap but not $600.
All good advice...thanks fellas. Here is a macro shot of the threads, inside of the flange and channel washer. Could the heat have come from the axle flange?
