Just bought a 1987 FJ60. Per the owner, this was a complete frame off rebuild with only 10,000 miles on a rebuilt 2F engine and transmission. Headers were added. The transmission was upgraded to an automatic FJ62. Front and rear diffs were completely rebuilt. ARB Compressors with the front and rear lockers. A Howell fuel injection system was added along with a new exhaust. Radiator and gas tank were refurbished. New AC, alternator, master cylinder, wheels and tires. Problem is, less than 130 miles later, the engine blew while doing 60mph downhill on a highway. According to my mechanic, it is believed a spun bearing for one of the pistons failed causing the engine to overheat, then seizing, then causing it to shut off. I had it towed which took 4 hours. Once cooled, the engine started and clunking could be heard from the oil pan area. My mechanic is quoting me $10,000 to rebuild the engine with a 3 year warranty. I am located in Phoenix, AZ. Any suggestions/advice regarding how much is reasonable would be greatly appreciated.
What is "reasonable"?
- Thread starter kennah
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
10k?
Most used cruisers cost less than 10k. And that's a whole car.
Most used cruisers cost less than 10k. And that's a whole car.
I'd wanna downgrade to a 5speed 
Why on Earth would a brand new engine spin a bearing? Was it run without oil? If it was just installed spun, which is unlikely but I guess possible, then you might be able to just get away with replacing the bearings without taking out the engine...Just the oil pan.
EDIT: I realized you said you had 10,000 miles on the rebuild, so never mind about it being installed wrong.
EDIT: I realized you said you had 10,000 miles on the rebuild, so never mind about it being installed wrong.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 238
- Messages
- 22,127
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
@lcwizard 4PlusProducts is in Miami, AZ and would be my call to do work on a cruiser in your area.
10K is insane...
J
10K is insane...
J
I bet there's more to this story... post some pics of this cruiser please. Let's have a look at the engine bay, undercarriage, interior, and whatever else you can get.
You can drop another power plant in your cruiser for less than 10k. Get rid of that automatic transmission. I've never really heard of anyone "upgrading" in that direction.
You can drop another power plant in your cruiser for less than 10k. Get rid of that automatic transmission. I've never really heard of anyone "upgrading" in that direction.
Pictures would be helpful. It's a somewhat unusual combination of 'upgrades'. Not all 'frame off restorations' are created equal. You may not be able to upload pictures without a minimum number of posts.
$10k for a 2F is too high. It would be a good price for installing a new Vortec by a quality shop.
$10k for a 2F is too high. It would be a good price for installing a new Vortec by a quality shop.
I think a typical build on these is 3500 to 4500, assuming the heads and crank are reusable. That doesn't include pulling and reinstalling
the motor. Like with anything it's nice to find a machinist with experience specific with Cruiser motors. I seldom get these rebuilt. the last one I did I spent about 3200, parts and labor, 900.00 or which was new high compression pistons. It ran beautifully for 17,000 miles then a rod broke right below the wrist pin. It was four months out of the machine shop warranty and they don't warranty the factory pieces that fail.
Another thing I had mistakenly assumed is that all good machinists magnaflux all the moving parts , such as rods, when they do a rebuild.
Apparently this is not the standard. You need to specify so they can charge you. This company was Bakers in Mesa. They specialize in
large engines including large diesels. Their work seemed fine enough but make sure to ask that all components are fluxed. It might save you some
future heartache
the motor. Like with anything it's nice to find a machinist with experience specific with Cruiser motors. I seldom get these rebuilt. the last one I did I spent about 3200, parts and labor, 900.00 or which was new high compression pistons. It ran beautifully for 17,000 miles then a rod broke right below the wrist pin. It was four months out of the machine shop warranty and they don't warranty the factory pieces that fail.
Another thing I had mistakenly assumed is that all good machinists magnaflux all the moving parts , such as rods, when they do a rebuild.
Apparently this is not the standard. You need to specify so they can charge you. This company was Bakers in Mesa. They specialize in
large engines including large diesels. Their work seemed fine enough but make sure to ask that all components are fluxed. It might save you some
future heartache
Well, the engine rebuild will be in the $4500 range with quality components, which are becoming increasingly hard to locate for these antique engines.
If you're having the mechanic R&R it, then $10K is not really out there, though I would say it is high. My guess is he doesn't really want to do it and that's a price to either make it worth his while or make you go away.
How much did you pay for the 'frame off rebuild', if I might ask. From a MUD member ?
Pix?
Pix?
We want pix.
If you're having the mechanic R&R it, then $10K is not really out there, though I would say it is high. My guess is he doesn't really want to do it and that's a price to either make it worth his while or make you go away.
How much did you pay for the 'frame off rebuild', if I might ask. From a MUD member ?
Pix?
Pix?
We want pix.
Here is an engine and transmission on eBay for $1550.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252702985376
You can even ditch that automatic and drop a 4 speed in, which is still better than the A/T
Or, with the money I just saved you, ditch both and get the 5-speed.
You're welcome.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252702985376
You can even ditch that automatic and drop a 4 speed in, which is still better than the A/T
Or, with the money I just saved you, ditch both and get the 5-speed.
You're welcome.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Do not, go go down the rabbit hole of rebuilding this engine with a "spun bearing" If you want to keep this, then a Chevy vortec conversion is the way to go.
And, agreed, the Cruiser "automatic" A440 is not an upgrade.
Going forward, I'd go mostly domestic. 5.3, 4L60e, and that mated to the split case. $10k will get you most of the way there.
And, agreed, the Cruiser "automatic" A440 is not an upgrade.
Going forward, I'd go mostly domestic. 5.3, 4L60e, and that mated to the split case. $10k will get you most of the way there.
- Thread starter
- #13
So far I have been unable to upload pics. I will try again tomorrow. Thank you for the suggestions. I will contact them right now!
- Thread starter
- #14
The spun bearing didn't cause the engine to overheat. The overheated engine caused the bearings to spin then the pistons seized in the cylinders. The "spun bearing" is the connecting rod to crank bearing. They have little notches in them that hold them in position. When they loose lubrication they overheat and torsion forced them the spin wiping the notches. This can quickly create wear in the polished crank as well as the connection rod where they contact the bearing. It is likely that other bearings (crank bearings) are spun or damaged as well. You will need your crank miked ie measured for wear and possibly cut down to .010 under or replaced. Worse case you may need to buy and entire rotating assembly. Really the entire engine should be checked for wear. The piston rings will need replacing. Reasons for a spun bearing ...low or improper oil, bad oil pump, oil pump pick up fell off the oil pump? clogged pick up? excessive rpms ie redlining, wrong bearings or improperly installed, defective or poorly manufactured bearings. What brand bearing did he install? Dropping the pan and examining the oil and oil pump and pick up is a starting point. Before that I would check the oil level and coolant level and see if it is contaminated. I would NOT immediately blame the engine builder. Rebuild it. $10k is way to much to rebuild.
$3500-4K in rebuild, 15-25 for the work. AT THE MOST. I'd be calling the PO back...
you sure you have a 2F with an auto trans? Has the drive train been upgraded to a 2FE and trans form a FJ62?
It s easy to mess up an engine rebuild, not odd at all that a rebuild messed up at 10k miles. Crazier things have happened. So many things could have been done wrong. You also have to be leary of anyone who puts that much time and money into something and then sells it so quick.
Did all the gauges work? Did it overheat? Did you check all fluids before hitting the hiway?
It s easy to mess up an engine rebuild, not odd at all that a rebuild messed up at 10k miles. Crazier things have happened. So many things could have been done wrong. You also have to be leary of anyone who puts that much time and money into something and then sells it so quick.
Did all the gauges work? Did it overheat? Did you check all fluids before hitting the hiway?
- Thread starter
- #19
- Thread starter
- #20