What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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They will do double nickel easy enough, 65 on the freeway sounds like throw a rod soon. In heavy cross winds I would hold the wheel low with both hands and lock my knees up against my hands. My flying box gets twitchy about steering wheel inputs at high speed!
 
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I have been procrastinating on this project because I didn't want to do it and I'm not super familiar with the process, nor comfortable with it.
I broke my fj55s windshield a few months back and I need to cut up my parts truck soon, so yesterday I pushed out my broken windshield and got the good used one out of my parts truck to transfer over.
On the 3rd try I noticed a tiny chip starting to Crack and spread. Lame...
Then as it starts to drop in, another small Crack. Damn.

I keep going because there's not a lot of options at this point.
On the last little push I pushed too hard and spider webbed out the whole passenger side, but got it in.
I'm not even that angry.
I tried something new that I was extremely uncomfortable with and almost was successful.
The secondary issue of getting the glass out of the parts truck allowed me to attack it with the Sawzall last night and I got everything from the floor up loaded in my pickup for a scrap run.

Once I'm finished moving, I'll pay a professional to put in a new windshield.

20241002_102450.webp
 
MatthewMcD said:
Out and about getting parts. Construction on the back roads made it an offroad experience.
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Current top speed is about 48mph. Not a problem in Austin traffic, but I am curious what I should expect with a 4 speed transmission and an older engine. I have a replacement 2F on the way.
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Mine has a tired F with 4 speed and 33’s. I have had it to 85 with 1 hand on the wheel. 65-70 mph is very common for me with my elbow on the window sill and a light hand on the wheel.
 
something that happened to me and is pretty basic but can be easily overlooked on early 40’s is your vacuum transfer not unlocking. If you front driveshaft spins your transfer is engaged and 48-50 is likely top speed. As soon as I fixed this my 1970 will run 65-70 without pushing it.
 
70fj40 said:
something that happened to me and is pretty basic but can be easily overlooked on early 40’s is your vacuum transfer not unlocking. If you front driveshaft spins your transfer is engaged and 48-50 is likely top speed. As soon as I fixed this my 1970 will run 65-70 without pushing it.
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I can put it up on jack stands and test that. As far as I can tell there are no vacuum lines that run to the transfer case. (5/75 chassis)
 
MatthewMcD said:
I can put it up on jack stands and test that. As far as I can tell there are no vacuum lines that run to the transfer case. (5/75 chassis)
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Don’t even need it on jack stands. With hubs unlocked, just try to spin the front driveline by hand. If your trans is in gear or parking brake engaged, you won’t be able to spin it if it’s engaged in 4 hi and it should spin with very minimal effort if all is disengaged.
 
IIRC In low range my speedo is way off, I say by the 2.3 ratio or what ever the transfer case lowers it by - not that the speedo actually reads correct - I think my needle return spring is weak.
 
MatthewMcD said:
Nope 2 high. I suspect it has more to do with the non-standard Carb than anything else.
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What carb are you running? Do you know your timing and the health of your ignition components? (Good plugs, distributor advance works, good plug wires, etc).
 
charliemeyer007 said:
IIRC In low range my speedo is way off, I say by the 2.3 ratio or what ever the transfer case lowers it by - not that the speedo actually reads correct - I think my needle return spring is weak.
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I think the speedometer should read the same regardless of range. The speedo cable connects after the range gearing.
 
Skreddy said:
What carb are you running? Do you know your timing and the health of your ignition components? (Good plugs, distributor advance works, good plug wires, etc).
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I have a Rochester carb. The plugs, wires, and points are all in great shape. I need to test the distributor advance again.

Looking at the FSM, it looks like vacuum should cause the timing to retard. That is counterintuitive to me.
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I need to look again, but I think my vacuum diaphragm is like the top photo, not the bottom.
 
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Skreddy said:
Don’t even need it on jack stands. With hubs unlocked, just try to spin the front driveline by hand. If your trans is in gear or parking brake engaged, you won’t be able to spin it if it’s engaged in 4 hi and it should spin with very minimal effort if all is disengaged.
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Hubs unlocked (2x4) and parking brake engaged, the front driveshaft spins freely.
 
MatthewMcD said:
I have a Rochester carb. The plugs, wires, and points are all in great shape. I need to test the distributor advance again.

Looking at the FSM, it looks like vacuum should cause the timing to retard. That is counterintuitive to me.
View attachment 3740958
I need to look again, but I think my vacuum diaphragm is like the top photo, not the bottom.
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Yes, many of the distributors for these engines vacuum retard. I converted to a vac advance distributor.
 
wchevron said:
I'm running 33's and have a Weber carb. Try to keep around 3000 rpm, at that I'm doing 60. Occasionally go up to 3300 rpm and am in the 65 range. Not a ton of shaking but it definitely feels like parts are going to start flying off if I push it any harder.
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Are you running 4.88:1 gears in your diffs?
 
MatthewMcD said:
I have no idea. How can I determine that?
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My question was intended for @wchevron. If he's running a stk driveline then his numbers don't add up.

Matthew, how are you determining your speed? What size are your tires. Do you have a tach? It seems something is restricting your RPM or power.
Timing, Mechanical advance, valve adjustment, vacuum leak or maybe the carb. Suck on the vacuum canister hose and see if the canister holds vacuum. If you can suck air then its bad.
 
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