What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (71 Viewers)

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So I finally am getting around to replacing my disgusting peeling steering wheel. I am really OCD when it come to these things. It would drive me nuts if it didn’t look right. It took me a year to replace the leather seats. And almost 6 months staring at everybody else’s steering posts here.
This is not going to be the cheapest option but I’m happy so far.
We are also going to wrap the shift knob to match, instead of the current black leather.
Notice we also made the transfer case boot out of the same leather.
Also went with a custom stitch to brighten it up a little.
The project is only half way done. I couldn’t figure out how to remove the shift knob without getting to crazy so once I get the steering wheel back on, I’m going to get that done next.
Happy with the quality, about as good as it can get for being a custom job.
Haven’t finalized pricing yet, waiting for shift knob first.
Unfortunately this is taking some time because my other car decided to go on the fritz the same day I took apart the LC.
Once finished I will post pics and price.
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Finished up doing my valve cover gaskets as I've tightened them up about three times since i bought the truck three years ago, and already had the kit in the garage.

Job was fairly easy, i just wish i did it before the lift was installed.

The spark plug rings were easier than last time i did them on a friend's cruiser. Having a big socket to hammer them in made it super easy.

My only concern during the job was the very noticeable varnishing on the rear end of the drivers side. Is that normal? What would the cause be and can i prevent it from happening?

I used synthetic on my first two oil changes when i got the cruiser but switched back to Toyota regular after springing a rear main seal leak shortly after. So maybe the synthetic cleaned up the varnish but didn't finish the job?

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The rubber was nonexistent on the old bolts.


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In preparation for an upcoming trip to Utah, I added a Wilco swing away Tire Carrier. There was absolutely no way to get the 295-70-18 under the truck! I also gave the LC a much needed bath and coat of wax! Had it aligned AGAIN. Removed a bunch of chrome trim that was added by the dealer 15 years ago. Worked on a dent my kid put in the front fender when he hit my boat trailer 2 years ago.

What do you guys think....Should I remove the CHROME Bull Bar thing from the front? It has helped me over some obstacles without damaging the bumper. I hate chrome but can't buy the bumpers I want for awhile.

If anyone has a Tundra Wheel that matches my others for sale, let me know! I'm in the San Diego area but will gladly pay for shipping.
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that thing is way too clean! Lets go out ot Anza-Borrego and get it dirty and scratched up!
 
View attachment 1892094 So I finally am getting around to replacing my disgusting peeling steering wheel. I am really OCD when it come to these things. It would drive me nuts if it didn’t look right. It took me a year to replace the leather seats. And almost 6 months staring at everybody else’s steering posts here.
This is not going to be the cheapest option but I’m happy so far.
We are also going to wrap the shift knob to match, instead of the current black leather.
Notice we also made the transfer case boot out of the same leather.
Also went with a custom stitch to brighten it up a little.
The project is only half way done. I couldn’t figure out how to remove the shift knob without getting to crazy so once I get the steering wheel back on, I’m going to get that done next.
Happy with the quality, about as good as it can get for being a custom job.
Haven’t finalized pricing yet, waiting for shift knob first.
Unfortunately this is taking some time because my other car decided to go on the fritz the same day I took apart the LC.
Once finished I will post pics and price. View attachment 1892087View attachment 1892088View attachment 1892089View attachment 1892091

Who did the work? Can most upholstery shops do it?
 
Finished up doing my valve cover gaskets as I've tightened them up about three times since i bought the truck three years ago, and already had the kit in the garage.

Job was fairly easy, i just wish i did it before the lift was installed.

The spark plug rings were easier than last time i did them on a friend's cruiser. Having a big socket to hammer them in made it super easy.

My only concern during the job was the very noticeable varnishing on the rear end of the drivers side. Is that normal? What would the cause be and can i prevent it from happening?

I used synthetic on my first two oil changes when i got the cruiser but switched back to Toyota regular after springing a rear main seal leak shortly after. So maybe the synthetic cleaned up the varnish but didn't finish the job?

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The rubber was nonexistent on the old bolts.


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I just did mine a few months ago. Same varnishing, but seems normal on my 320k mile engine.
 
Got 5 General Grabber ATX installed in the 275/70 18 size. Real happy with quietness, power, and appearance. Shopped around until my mind went numb. Got them done by a local St. Louis owned shop (Zisser Tire) for about the same price as online options. Had stock tires on prior with good tread left- for sale local pickup.

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Thank you for sharing!

wasn't trying to take a jab, its been ingrained in me and thought I'd share in case you weren't aware. You'd be surprised how many people do not know proper American flag etiquette.

Here's a little extra information if you're interested:

American USA Flag Etiquette | Flagandbanner

Didn’t mean to come off aggressive. In meetings so I quickly replied. Thanks for the comment. Didn’t pay attention to that when I applied it years ago. Learned something new today.

Thank you for sharing!

See half way down the page

About — Forge Overland
 
wasn't trying to take a jab, its been ingrained in me and thought I'd share in case you weren't aware. You'd be surprised how many people do not know proper American flag etiquette.

Here's a little extra information if you're interested:

American USA Flag Etiquette | Flagandbanner

The sticker is mimicking a flag on a uniform. The flag is facing forward and is streaming to the back as the person/vehicle moves forward. There are a lot of vehicle stickers like this in the gun industry. So no the flag is not backwards, it's just on the wrong side of his vehicle.
 
View attachment 1892094 So I finally am getting around to replacing my disgusting peeling steering wheel. I am really OCD when it come to these things. It would drive me nuts if it didn’t look right. It took me a year to replace the leather seats. And almost 6 months staring at everybody else’s steering posts here.
This is not going to be the cheapest option but I’m happy so far.
We are also going to wrap the shift knob to match, instead of the current black leather.
Notice we also made the transfer case boot out of the same leather.
Also went with a custom stitch to brighten it up a little.
The project is only half way done. I couldn’t figure out how to remove the shift knob without getting to crazy so once I get the steering wheel back on, I’m going to get that done next.
Happy with the quality, about as good as it can get for being a custom job.
Haven’t finalized pricing yet, waiting for shift knob first.
Unfortunately this is taking some time because my other car decided to go on the fritz the same day I took apart the LC.
Once finished I will post pics and price. View attachment 1892087View attachment 1892088View attachment 1892089View attachment 1892091

Hi/Low shift knob unscrews.

Or are you referring to the transmission/gear selector?

I've taken that apart too...
 
Hi/Low shift knob unscrews.

Or are you referring to the transmission/gear selector?

I've taken that apart too...
I've taken apart the center console a couple of times. The Hi/Low is easy.
That actual shift knob is surgery, and my tech who helps me out didn't look to thrilled about taking it out.
The leather guy said he could put it on if I brought him the truck.
Now today is a new thread, showing in brilliant detail how to remove the actual shift knob.
Day late, dollar short I guess.
 
See half way down the page

About — Forge Overland

I can appreciate the history and thought behind the logo. But, it is still mounted incorrectly if it isn't on the passenger side of the vehicle with the stars facing forward.... Just sayin... again, not trying to be a dick, its just something that has been pounded in to me. For better or for worse.

U.S. Code, Title 4, Chapter 1, Section 8(j) or Army Regulation 670-1
 
Decided to add real fog lights to my Dissent front bumper that wouldn't be blinding oncoming traffic. I'd used Rigid Industries SAE Fog Lights on my my other truck builds and figured I'd see if I could make them work in this bumper. After a few hours of taking dimensions and working some metal, I think it turned out great.

Here's a link to the lights:

D-SERIES SAE J583 FOG LIGHT PAIR


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Decided to add real fog lights to my Dissent front bumper that would be blinding oncoming traffic. I'd used Rigid Industries SAE Fog Lights on my my other truck builds and figured I'd see if I could make them work in this bumper. After a few hours of taking dimensions and working some metal, I think it turned out great.

Here's a link to the lights:

D-SERIES SAE J583 FOG LIGHT PAIR


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Nice work on the light mounts.
 
Finished up doing my valve cover gaskets as I've tightened them up about three times since i bought the truck three years ago, and already had the kit in the garage.

Job was fairly easy, i just wish i did it before the lift was installed.

The spark plug rings were easier than last time i did them on a friend's cruiser. Having a big socket to hammer them in made it super easy.

My only concern during the job was the very noticeable varnishing on the rear end of the drivers side. Is that normal? What would the cause be and can i prevent it from happening?

I used synthetic on my first two oil changes when i got the cruiser but switched back to Toyota regular after springing a rear main seal leak shortly after. So maybe the synthetic cleaned up the varnish but didn't finish the job?


The rubber was nonexistent on the old bolts.

Damn, man you blew a rear main seal! So I'd look into high oil pressure, which is from a blocked PCV valve, etc. This would explain the varnish as well.
 
Decided to add real fog lights to my Dissent front bumper that would be blinding oncoming traffic. I'd used Rigid Industries SAE Fog Lights on my my other truck builds and figured I'd see if I could make them work in this bumper. After a few hours of taking dimensions and working some metal, I think it turned out great.

Here's a link to the lights:

D-SERIES SAE J583 FOG LIGHT PAIR


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Great job! Good to know that the Rigid SAE Fog will fit at an angle in that location to face forward.
 
Great job! Good to know that the Rigid SAE Fog will fit at an angle in that location to face forward.

They fit, but its tight. The real clearance issues come from the hardware that Rigid uses now on their light bracket.
 

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