Moved these from here
to here
Thanks Jason.......
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (109 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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- Joined
- Nov 23, 2016
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- Valdosta, Ga
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- www.cruisersontherocks.com
Changed the heater T’s in my 06. It was time.
Finally kicked out the Android 10" System, returned back to stock Display and climate controls.
Thrown away the stock navi (it wasn't working anymore) and stock amp, replaced it with a JBL amp.
Removed the stock Audio system, replaced with an Alpine out from my previous J95.
Alpine HU + JBL amp + JBL speakers sounds really great.
Now just need some ideas how to use the stock display (I know, the resolution is low. Who cares) for some android-nav.
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I do remember. The primary battery is a group 31 and my aux battery is a group 35, both X2 Power. A little pricey, but these batteries are top notch for sure. If you order through Batteries+ they usually run specials for ordering online and picking up in store, but I just went in store and mentioned this and they honored it. Funny thing, when I was purchasing the group 35 for my secondary, the kid goes "so uh, that big Group 31 isn't cutting it?" I tried to explain the purpose of isolation and running aux components off the secondary... I don't think he understood what I was getting at. I think he thought I was trying to provide more starting power. ALL THE CRANKING AMPS!
Next step modification for over-landing.
1. New rear bumper with wheel carrier (Colour coded). Underneath the hook is an Anderson plug to charge aux batteries in a camper trailer.
2. New diesel sub tank (34 gal) in the place where the spare use to be.
3. Removed the smaller rear seat (behind the passenger) and fit a new platform for the fridge using the current seat bolt-on points. The cavity underneath the platform has been turned into a lockable storage area.
1. New rear bumper with wheel carrier (Colour coded). Underneath the hook is an Anderson plug to charge aux batteries in a camper trailer.
2. New diesel sub tank (34 gal) in the place where the spare use to be.
3. Removed the smaller rear seat (behind the passenger) and fit a new platform for the fridge using the current seat bolt-on points. The cavity underneath the platform has been turned into a lockable storage area.
The weight of the additions and the full sub tank dropped the rear onto the bump stops with the old standard coils. It was replaced with new OME 2866 coils. Every thing is back to standard level again.
Old and new coils together
Before the coil replacement
After the coil replacement
The ride is like a new vehicle. The OME2866's give a very soft comfortable ride but maintain stifness when you hit the bumps.
Old and new coils together
Before the coil replacement
After the coil replacement
The ride is like a new vehicle. The OME2866's give a very soft comfortable ride but maintain stifness when you hit the bumps.
Inner and outer tie rods -
Replaced the P.O’s crappy Moog tie rods with 555’s from @cruiseroutfit. Followed this thread inner tierod replacement 1hr step by step no pictures 1 bannana and now my high mileage (230k) truck drives like new.
Replaced the P.O’s crappy Moog tie rods with 555’s from @cruiseroutfit. Followed this thread inner tierod replacement 1hr step by step no pictures 1 bannana and now my high mileage (230k) truck drives like new.
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finally got around to replace the OEM Amp in the LX for a 5channel version. Running wires sucked, the power cable through the firewall took some good effort. I have to run wires for the LED lights through that same port. Maybe I'll have energy to tackle that tonight.
I’m curious where you ran the wires though the firewall. I ran a small wire through the side of the existing grommet, but have been thinking about installing a medium sized second grommet for more accessories and and amp eventually.finally got around to replace the OEM Amp in the LX for a 5channel version. Running wires sucked, the power cable through the firewall took some good effort. I have to run wires for the LED lights through that same port. Maybe I'll have energy to tackle that tonight.
I ran the 4 ga amp power wire through the factory wire grommet in the passenger foot well. If you pop the hood, its in the far passenger corner next to the AHC pump. There is two barriers to poke through. I taped the wire to a flattened hanger and poked through from the engine bay. Once that hole was large enough to get the wire thru, I did the same from passenger footwell. I had the glove box and kick panels already removed. Its a FAT cable so some effort and f bombs are needed. I'll use some goop to seal the hole on the engine bay side tonight pending if I run the LED wires.
Today the key fob just gave up... so I used my technical mechanical skills and repaired it! Also have 2 new ones on the way (pre-programmed) that will just need cut when they arrive.
Yesterday consisted of installing new LX470 OEM springs, adjusting torsion bars, and verifying all pressure readings were back to spec via Techstream.
Yesterday consisted of installing new LX470 OEM springs, adjusting torsion bars, and verifying all pressure readings were back to spec via Techstream.
Awesome thanks!
Nice thinking but this is the permanent fix for your problem......just my two cents.
It’s a baby
