What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (77 Viewers)

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I haven’t had many opportunities lately, to do much of anything. I’ve got a steering rack to put in along with motor mounts while I’m at it. But with the daily rain and 90% humidity also combined with the daily 95-110 degree heat index I’ve been reluctant to do anything. I did however finally finish up my bumper and winch install. I had to lengthen the winch control box leads to reach under the hood. Topped it off with the Factor55 Flat Link and color matched grill, no more chrome!

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Installed Asfir kid plate, fitment was good, didn't have any issues with holes not lining up like some people claimed.

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Cladding/Trim has some fading and scratches so im sanding it down and applying some fresh paint. If it doesn't turn out well i'll go take it to a body shop, but it's just the trim pieces so im not too concern about 100% match. I'm using expensive clear coat to make it shine. This clear has a hardener inside that you break and activate it, not your ordinary off the shelf clear at Advance autopart.

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Replaced my broken LCA and TB mount. Used the Ironman 4x4 reinforcement bracket to minimize the chance of that happening again.
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Also retired the tire that dragged the fender to spare tire duty.
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I’m suspecting this may have also worn out my wheel bearings as I could only get around 6-7 lbs. on the fish scale.
 
Installed Asfir kid plate, fitment was good, didn't have any issues with holes not lining up like some people claimed.

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Cladding/Trim has some fading and scratches so im sanding it down and applying some fresh paint. If it doesn't turn out well i'll go take it to a body shop, but it's just the trim pieces so im not too concern about 100% match. I'm using expensive clear coat to make it shine. This clear has a hardener inside that you break and activate it, not your ordinary off the shelf clear at Advance autopart.

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Nice curious to see the results. I’ve found a seller on eBay that will mix the exact paint code for you and send it premixed att a reasonable price. That 2k clear or amazing stuff. Lays down nice and you can we l color dang after to get rid of the orange peel
 
Part 43430-60040-84
Purchased from Toyota, branded by Toyota so I assume remanufactured by Toyota or someone they approve.
New wasn't available and reman were on back order. Never mind price for new was about 5 times that of reman.
Cheers thx. I knew they were coming but it’s the first I’ve seen of the -84 Toyota remans. Thanks for posting. On McGeorge the price looks reasonable. Did you happen to inspect the splines on the outer stub to see how they looked- wonder if the splines have been broached, cleaned up or in some state of used condition. Guessing you paid a core charge of some sort?
 
Took out most of the driver's side suspension yesterday, the tie rod end was a complete animal to remove, had to remove the two fat bolts holding the upper control arm to get the steering knuckle down so I could remove the CV axle (curse upper ball joints). Took out (what's left of) the tie rod boot, took of the rotor to get the old bearings out and new ones in. Also the power steering supply line (from the pump to the rack) was leaking AF and I was actually able to fix it by taking it to some guy who changed out the old rubber part of the pipe and put in a new 400-psi pipe (for like $9) rather than replace it completely. Also bought replacement lights for the driver side rear brake light and passenger side fog light. Also is it me, or are ball joints just the most nightmarish thing to get apart? Also the head of the bottle jack crumbled to literal dust after my dad applied some point load to it so that's great. We're going to the market to replace these parts later today and get some (much needed) degreaser. Will update. I can't wait to drive this car with it's full 4WD power. (P.S. CV Axles make for nice dumbbells).

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Cheers thx. I knew they were coming but it’s the first I’ve seen of the -84 Toyota remans. Thanks for posting. On McGeorge the price looks reasonable. Did you happen to inspect the splines on the outer stub to see how they looked- wonder if the splines have been broached, cleaned up or in some state of used condition. Guessing you paid a core charge of some sort?
My local dealership matched a price I found of $159 each. Core was $75 each, refunded after returning my used CVAs.
I didn't inspect the splines too closely.
The orange colored discount auto part store sells their version for about $90. Unless you're looking for a temporary or spare, I think it is a no brainer buying the reman Toyota.
 
Took out most of the driver's side suspension yesterday, the tie rod end was a complete animal to remove, had to remove the two fat bolts holding the upper control arm to get the steering knuckle down so I could remove the CV axle (curse upper ball joints). Took out (what's left of) the tie rod boot, took of the rotor to get the old bearings out and new ones in. Also the power steering supply line (from the pump to the rack) was leaking AF and I was actually able to fix it by taking it to some guy who changed out the old rubber part of the pipe and put in a new 400-psi pipe (for like $9) rather than replace it completely. Also bought replacement lights for the driver side rear brake light and passenger side fog light. Also is it me, or are ball joints just the most nightmarish thing to get apart? Also the head of the bottle jack crumbled to literal dust after my dad applied some point load to it so that's great. We're going to the market to replace these parts later today and get some (much needed) degreaser. Will update. I can't wait to drive this car with it's full 4WD power. (P.S. CV Axles make for nice dumbbells).

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While replacing my CVAs I found a cracked boot on one of the tie rod ends. I'll be replacing mine soon too.
 
ing to order one of these ASFIR front sk
Did you use the code MUDDERS15 for 15% off? Its good until Aug. 31st. I ordered the front and trans skids early last week and they are supposedly going to be here Wednesday.
 
Took out most of the driver's side suspension yesterday, the tie rod end was a complete animal to remove, had to remove the two fat bolts holding the upper control arm to get the steering knuckle down so I could remove the CV axle (curse upper ball joints). Took out (what's left of) the tie rod boot, took of the rotor to get the old bearings out and new ones in. Also the power steering supply line (from the pump to the rack) was leaking AF and I was actually able to fix it by taking it to some guy who changed out the old rubber part of the pipe and put in a new 400-psi pipe (for like $9) rather than replace it completely. Also bought replacement lights for the driver side rear brake light and passenger side fog light. Also is it me, or are ball joints just the most nightmarish thing to get apart? Also the head of the bottle jack crumbled to literal dust after my dad applied some point load to it so that's great. We're going to the market to replace these parts later today and get some (much needed) degreaser. Will update. I can't wait to drive this car with it's full 4WD power. (P.S. CV Axles make for nice dumbbells).

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Hope your replacement parts list includes new CVs and not just boots—those look like they were driven lots without the snap rings in place….everything beyond the snap ring groove is destroyed.
 
Did you use the code MUDDERS15 for 15% off? Its good until Aug. 31st. I ordered the front and trans skids early last week and they are supposedly going to be here Wednesday.
Dang! No, I didn’t. They’re currently running 50% off international shipping, which saves a lot. Not sure if they’d do both discounts in conjunction.
 

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