What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (43 Viewers)

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Got stuck trying to get into my driveway in a foot of snow. Oh and put in the cup holders from Ben.

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Mojayjayjay said:
I just picked up my lx last weekend. Took it to get a full inspection the following day, put new discs, flushed trans, both CVs replaced, oil change, repacked bearings, flushed power steering, and other random preventative things here and there.

It had 8 year old tires that were shot, so I put some 285/75/16s yesterday. They scrubbed slightly on the passenger side inner fender when cutting the wheel in reverse, but it looked like it was more or so because of the inner fender liner that poked out a bit more on the right. It also seemed to sit a slight bit lower on the passengers side so I adjusted the torsion bars two rotations on the passenger side and one rotation on the driver's side. Each sided ended up measuring up equally from fender to hub.

I ended up removing the running boards, and I already like the look a lot more, though I did already find myself getting use to using the running boards, so there was one or two missteps getting in.

It already had AHC delete by previous owner; however, the AHC "off" light was blinking, so I removed the AHC ecu plugs, and it's good to go.

My CDL light (and the vsc/trac lights) stopped coming on randomly, but I sat there for about 10 minutes locking and unlocking, and also unplugged and cleaned the cdl switch plug, and it seems to be good to go. (It seems the previous owner just never used the CDL)

Fixed an annoying squeak from the rear drivers side door (ended up just being a screw under the control panel the needed a couple more turns).

Fixed and ordered the rear window washer, which was non existent. It seems the prior owner removed it to diagnose why it wasn't working. Turns out the line in the engine bay had worn and was spraying out.

Things I'll be doing in the future....

getting a mild lift 1.5-2" max (I've yet to decide which brand to go with, so any input is appreciated). I have a farm with mildly rough terrain I'll occasionally drive through, but will mainly be used for occasional camping/OL and highway driving. The main purpose for the suspension upgrade is because it unfortunately came with the wonderful strut master conversion. I will say, it rides pretty well on the highway, but I drove around in my backyard through some bumps and I'm certainly not impressed (and of course they don't have the best reputation, according to other forum posts).

I could also use new UCA ball joints, I'll likely do those at the same time I install the lift/torsion bars. I'll probably buy the full UCA (any suggested brands?).


I'll likely be getting some oem mudflaps for the front.

The sunroof seems to be leaking a bit, after a hard rain the last day or two, as I had a small puddle in the passengers seat. I did clean out the drains, and the seal itself seems solid with no apparent cuts or pinholes, so I'm somewhat confused to where the leak is coming from. I'm really hoping it's not the seal.

I have a DVD nav unit on its way that should be here Monday, mine has the "no disk detected" error, and I've already taken the unit out, tried cleaning it, and had no luck. I also took the nav disk from my mother's ES 300 (same dvd nav unit part number) and it still failed to read that disk. Hopefully the new one will fix the situation.

May paint or plastidip wheels? Idk


Conclusion:

So far, I love this thing (knock on wood). I'll appreciate any guidance or constructive criticism towards my future build/plans. I did have a 92 xj for a while, and a 64 cj5, but they were almost purely farm trucks, so highway safety and drivability wasnt a huge concern. I will say though, I've crept around on this forum for several months looking for advice in buying my 100, and doing the few things I've done, and it's been an incredible help, so thank you. My post is somewhat erratic, but maybe the things I discuss may also help future owners. Also, I'm not use to this forum layout, so if I'm posting this incorrectly, let me know. It seemed the "what have you done to your lc today" was applicable.

Anyways, happy cruisin! (That's a thing right?)

(Pic is just a little before and after)

View attachment 2584512
Click to expand...

I went with the @Ironman 4x4 USA 0-440lbs lift.
The price is right.
The folks at Ironman were helpful and provided honest advice. I asked if I needed (based on my situation) the less expensive Nitro Gas or Foamcell Pro shocks. They could have easily upsold me but said the less expensive Nitro Gas would serve my purpose. I appreciate the honesty.
The ride is certainly stiffer which I mostly expected. I say this because many people here say how much better the ride is after the suspension upgrade. Maybe the brand they go with is softer or they haul more weight?
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
Or their suspension was clapped out and should’ve been replaced 50k miles before they did.
Click to expand...
Truth. I rode in an 2005 lc with oem everything before I bought mine And in addition to
Being a comfortable ride it was night and day better than my hoopty caddy like ride of the 2003 I purchased soon after.
 
crustyLC said:
I went with the @Ironman 4x4 USA 0-440lbs lift.
The price is right.
The folks at Ironman were helpful and provided honest advice. I asked if I needed (based on my situation) the less expensive Nitro Gas or Foamcell Pro shocks. They could have easily upsold me but said the less expensive Nitro Gas would serve my purpose. I appreciate the honesty.
The ride is certainly stiffer which I mostly expected. I say this because many people here say how much better the ride is after the suspension upgrade. Maybe the brand they go with is softer or they haul more weight?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. I spent probably an HR going back and forth with the ironman suspension, and which to get. I'm certainly leaning towards ironman, I really just want to be sure it will have a smooth ride on the highway. Some folks said ome knocks your teeth out, and is quite firm which steered me away from that. I have no problem with firm, my e92 has extremely firm suspension, but for the purposes of the lx, I do want it to be relatively smooth. I contemplated even going with oem LC suspension, but would prefer at least a small lift. As of now I'm going back and forth between pulling the trigger on ironman or piecing out OEM.
 
Mojayjayjay said:
Thanks for the input. I spent probably an HR going back and forth with the ironman suspension, and which to get. I'm certainly leaning towards ironman, I really just want to be sure it will have a smooth ride on the highway. Some folks said ome knocks your teeth out, and is quite firm which steered me away from that. I have no problem with firm, my e92 has extremely firm suspension, but for the purposes of the lx, I do want it to be relatively smooth. I contemplated even going with oem LC suspension, but would prefer at least a small lift. As of now I'm going back and forth between pulling the trigger on ironman or piecing out OEM.
Click to expand...
Several folks have used OME springs to get a bit of a lift, but used new, and very affordable Toyota shocks. Search the forums. It seems folks are very happy with the result.
 
Bisho said:
Several folks have used OME springs to get a bit of a lift, but used new, and very affordable Toyota shocks. Search the forums. It seems folks are very happy with the result.
Click to expand...

I would like to here more about this. I just replaced my shocks w new OEM shocks but have decided I want a lift. Have heard there are ways to get a lift without having to buy a full kit.
 
merbesfield said:
I would like to here more about this. I just replaced my shocks w new OEM shocks but have decided I want a lift. Have heard there are ways to get a lift without having to buy a full kit.
Click to expand...
I went with ome 2865 springs, new oem shocks and cranked the tbars a bit. The ride is great, my old rear shocks were completely toast, went from a boat like to "sportier" but still comfy ride. Just saw you have an lx you'd need lc tbars if you're removing ahc.
 
merbesfield said:
I would like to here more about this. I just replaced my shocks w new OEM shocks but have decided I want a lift. Have heard there are ways to get a lift without having to buy a full kit.
Click to expand...
Crank/re-index torsion bars and add spring spacers or stiffer springs in the rear. OEM Toyota shocks work with every “lift kit” coil spring and torsion bar on the market.
 
I just wanted to say that 2020 was 2020. I bought my 2001 LX in 2019. I am glad I did. I didn’t drive it much, but it’s the only thing that was reliable. I also added a constant duty 200 amp solenoid/relay to add an additional battery. Ford stealership convinced my wife she needed a new battery. So I just kept the old one to play and learn with. Now I want a “house battery” that can fit in the factory sub location.
 
Mojayjayjay said:
Thanks for the input. I spent probably an HR going back and forth with the ironman suspension, and which to get. I'm certainly leaning towards ironman, I really just want to be sure it will have a smooth ride on the highway. Some folks said ome knocks your teeth out, and is quite firm which steered me away from that. I have no problem with firm, my e92 has extremely firm suspension, but for the purposes of the lx, I do want it to be relatively smooth. I contemplated even going with oem LC suspension, but would prefer at least a small lift. As of now I'm going back and forth between pulling the trigger on ironman or piecing out OEM.
Click to expand...
Worst case scenario get oem shocks and get an aftermarket coil that is slightly more spring rate than factory coils. Lots of guys who wheel pretty hard run the oem shocks and there’s Tons of threads here that talk about coils. 2865 I think is the “my first coil” that’s a bit more than factory but look for the diagram to be sure I’m probably wrong. Also crank your factory t bars and you can alway but Ironmans or aways should you decide you want to beefier upfront support. The Ironman packages are a great deal but if you don’t need it yet no sense spending money you don’t want to spend.
 
Pucker5 said:
Lots of guys who wheel pretty hard run the oem shocks and there’s Tons of threads here that talk about coils. 2865 I think is the “my first coil” that’s a bit more than factory but look for the diagram to be sure I’m probably wrong.
Click to expand...
I agree with getting new OEM Toyota shocks, but the OME 865 springs are a full 1 inch shorter than the factory springs. They will sag quickly. The OME 860 springs have the same spring rate as 865 but are the same length as factory springs, and thus won’t sag.
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
I agree with getting new OEM Toyota shocks, but the OME 865 springs are a full 1 inch shorter than the factory springs. They will sag quickly. The OME 860 springs have the same spring rate as 865 but are the same length as factory springs, and thus won’t sag.
Click to expand...
Lol I knew I’d be wrong. Basically 2865 starts taking opinion hits when you add Any weight. But if they go 2” higher and they settle to one inch and you only want one inch you’re good. If you want two inches inspire of the extra....well 2860 it is
 
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