What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)

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Replaced a rear quarter vent window motor. It works! Rarely use these, but having things not work makes me crazy.

Thread here I started while troubleshooting:
 
Went out to the local junk yard to see what was left of this 99 LX.

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Put in stainless heater tees rather than OEM. 190k on the originals, no pics but one was like wet cardboard.

Not pictured are new spark plugs and new CV shafts on both sides, passenger side boot had failed so I replaced both preventatively.

Bonus pic is one clean engine bay. Had the work done by Tee at Pro-Image Auto Repair in Denver. Really great guy, super professional work at a fair price. Highly recommended mechanic for anybody in the Denver area.

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My metal tees leaked. Just sayin.
 
My metal tees leaked. Just sayin.

I don't understand why trusting a hardware store part over a OEM part that lasted over 15 years or over 150k miles, and a :banana: job replace. Are there no reactions between coolant and those metals? Agreeing with 'just saying'...
 
For what it’s worth, I had to redo ALL of their crimps .... the bracket was fine, the relocation harness quality was super disappointing (got a full refund and re-crimped everything with my own connectors)... not trying to shame anyone, but .....
Gotcha. Thanks for the Intel. I have longer cables from ARB so I'll use those and can bend up a bracket
 
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Put in stainless heater tees rather than OEM. 190k on the originals, no pics but one was like wet cardboard.

Not pictured are new spark plugs and new CV shafts on both sides, passenger side boot had failed so I replaced both preventatively.

Bonus pic is one clean engine bay. Had the work done by Tee at Pro-Image Auto Repair in Denver. Really great guy, super professional work at a fair price. Highly recommended mechanic for anybody in the Denver area.

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I am not sure what clamps everyone here has used. When I did my heater tees I used Breeze 'constant-torque' clamps and all new hoses. Zero leaks in about 25k miles. Based on my past experience with these clamps, I expect that they will never leak. I use them anywhere they will fit. In circumstances where I have seen problems with the standard hose clamps, it is because they will not tighten evenly and leak. Then somebody will notice said leak and over tighten the clamp causing it to cut into the hose. Later, said hose bursts open or dribbles out on the bottom where you don't (or cannot) see it. Making diagnoses......fun. They do not always leak, so I hope that yours don't leak. 🍻
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I am not sure what clamps everyone here has used. When I did my heater tees I used Breeze 'constant-torque' clamps and all new hoses. Zero leaks in about 25k miles. Based on my past experience with these clamps, I expect that they will never leak. I use them anywhere they will fit. In circumstances where I have seen problems with the standard hose clamps, it is because they will not tighten evenly and leak. Then somebody will notice said leak and over tighten the clamp causing it to cut into the hose. Later, said hose bursts open or dribbles out on the bottom where you don't (or cannot) see it. Making diagnoses......fun. They do not always leak, so I hope that yours don't leak. 🍻View attachment 2501209

Did you use a Gates hose also? So you are aware, by not going OEM your engine will certainly catch on fire, your transmission will lose third gear, you'll blow your front diff, and you may have to replace your drivers side taillight housing. Just an FYI.

Jim
 
Why doubting me. I tried posting pictures of when I dismantle the parts. Only I didn't do video as I was the only one working on it.

Pictures I took was to make sure, they were reinstalled they way it was dismantled and also did measurements.

I used koyo bearings to replaced the 4 sets, one big and one small bearing on the pinion and two midium sizes on the sides.

It took me one day to dismantle the diff from car, remove the bearing and replace bearings with the help of a welder that has a big jack and bearing puller. And one day again to re-install back to car.

The hardest part for me was during installation, I put the diff on top of a small bear crate because it was very heavy to carry unto its position.

Before attempting it, I downloaded and watched several videos of how to do this job.

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So it has happened! Commendable Sir!
 
Replaced all 4 door seals. The ones that came out were not as soft anymore. Obviously haven't noticed any difference at all!
67861-60101 WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR, RH
67862-60101 WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR, LH
67871-60070 WEATHERSTRIP, REAR DOOR, RH
67872-60070 WEATHERSTRIP, REAR DOOR, LH
 
Replaced all 4 door seals. The ones that came out were not as soft anymore. Obviously haven't noticed any difference at all!
67861-60101 WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR, RH
67862-60101 WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR, LH
67871-60070 WEATHERSTRIP, REAR DOOR, RH
67872-60070 WEATHERSTRIP, REAR DOOR, LH
What kind of price did you find for all of these?
 
I like that drawer setup. Did you build it?
I “assembled” it. It’s a Land Shark Reef. Loving it. Most cost effective drawer solution for me. I could have saved some $$ if I built it from scratch but would have spent days instead of hours on it.
 
What kind of price did you find for all of these?
I bought them last year at about $56 apiece for rear and $62 each for the front. I think they are $77/piece now. They just sat in my garage and I kinda forgot about them, found them again yesterday while cleaning the garage :)
 
ID on that sick first aid kit?

ITS Tactical makes the velcro wrap on the headrest as well as the pouch that affixes to it. I've got a floating trauma kit that is more robust that sometimes goes in the Cruiser but the red kit is always present. Basically enough stop the bleed stuff for one and a half people.
 
X2. My metal tees and torque clamps leaked directly into the ends of the connectors for the transmission harness causing conductivity issues.

Noted! Appreciate the feedback. I’ll keep an eye on it. If they begin to fail, it would be responsible to replace the hoses anyways. As far as any reaction between the coolant and either stainless steel or brass, that shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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Replaced the alternator, harness, PS reservoir and hoses, upper and lower radiator hoses with all new OEM clamps. Also replaced some vacuum hoses. Then two days later, got my wet okole seat covers and now it feels like a new rig! The only bummer is the center console wasn’t available. Looks weird to me.
 
I didn't feel like hooking up the trailer so I used it to truck lumber home to build a gate; last thing we had to do to complete fence.

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View attachment 2501943View attachment 2501944Replaced the alternator, harness, PS reservoir and hoses, upper and lower radiator hoses with all new OEM clamps. Also replaced some vacuum hoses. Then two days later, got my wet okole seat covers and now it feels like a new rig! The only bummer is the center console wasn’t available. Looks weird to me.
Those covers are sweet.
 

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