What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)

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Bought a rust free rig!!

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Stripped a lot of interior
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Broke a u joint on my rear driveshaft a few weeks back. Bought a new shaft from Toyota and am having intermittent vibration/droning that i have been trouble shooting. I took of my front shaft no change, checked my rear control arms and now discovered this oil leak. I am hoping this is my smoking gun!
 
I started out by changing the rear springs to KTRS-79, and managed to rip my rear right AHC-shock in two, in a moment of stupidity...

Well, I ordered a new one from Partsouq, and got it yesterday, and installed it, having to make two ugly holes in the floor, as the first hole was too small, and slightly off position... Will have to find a solution for that, although I will have some kind of removable cover there, to simplify inspection, and will probably make one on the other side as well, for the same reason.

Well, in the mean time, I serviced my front calipers and installed them again. After having some issues with my service-kit from febest, I kept the original o-rings, as they actually fit, and were in really good condition.... And also, did not break when installing the pistons... Apparently there are two different calipers 15s+13a, and 14s+12a, or something, and I have the 15s... Well, it did not fit, and neither did the slidepins I had bought... They were 2cms too short... So, to make the old ones usable again, I put them in my drill, and spun them against sandpaper wrapped around a flat piece of wood... Well, it worked, and they were fit for use again.

After installing the everything, I went for a test trip, and found out my car pulled really hard to the left... I could not really figure out why, but feared my disc was warped... Off with the caliper again, and measured it, and it looked perfectly good... Then I wanted to clean it off properly with brake-cleaner and some paper, and then I felt a thick layer of rust and road-dust on the inside of the disc, but after five minutes with a drill with a wire-brush, it was much better, and next test-trip went perfectly.

Also, I tightened my torsion-springs three revolutions, changed my power-steering fluid, and adjusted my AHC-sensors slightly higher. So I got approximately 2cms of lift. In combination with removing the sideboards,it looks totally different...

So now I have a few more things to do, like changing oil and filters, and also spray-paint my leather seats...



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They really do an amazing job packaging their stuff. I’ve never seen anything like it. Tilt sensors inside the box too.

which sliders did you get? The step sliders or regular?

yea certainly looks that way! I went with the regular tube sliders. Doesn’t look like they have the step sliders in rock so made the choice even easier!
 
I have them yep. These are half the price , so you get H3 & H4 for about the same price you get a single bulb locally (more or less). Delivery was about 2-3 weeks.

These are the best LED brand on the market, I researched plenty and the heat ribbons (dissapation) are the same as STEDIs and the best also.

With LEDs the placement of the actual LED needs to be exactly the same as where the element sits in a normal Halogen or HID bulb. Don't be fooled by Ebay stuff the light won't spread correctly in the housing. A little bit of adjustment was needed to seat the bulb correctly

I'm not really concerned about lumens, for me its the power savings all round. These are bright as anything especially on high beam (H3) they work brilliantly. On low beam they kind of spread a little uneven, but it is very hard to tell. I have 6000k all round once I get Hard Korr spots & find some fogs maybe STEDIs. I think the higher lumens are for the spots and light bar. Driving lights I’m not really needing high output lumens

These are also first generation LEDs made by Philips they have more powerful ones now if you want to pay that price though. Quite expensive.

Thanks for the info on them. I went down the STEDI rabbit hole on youtube the other day and was drooling over the st3303 pro
 
Thanks for the info on them. I went down the STEDI rabbit hole on youtube the other day and was drooling over the st3303 pro
They are nice hey, they've packed the CREEs into that thing. Pretty similar to Hard Korr's which are about half the price.
 

Took nearly 3 weeks to test everything out on the 2005 cruiser. After installing the Dobinsons 2" lift with the mono-shocks, the new Dobinsons torsion bars, and the right sprints, the cruiser handled everything effortlessly. Highway driving at 70+ was smooth and the steering was responsive. Just before leaving I installed the Cooper tires on a beautiful set of 17" Australian 200 series wheels. No road noise from the larger and more aggressive tires.

The single Dobinsons drawer on the left side along with the fitment kit worked perfectly. 3 bags of tools, axe, machete, and recovery gear was able to fit nicely in the space on the left. In the drawer I kept an Iron Lodge Iron pot, large pan, and enough canned food to get us through an extended hurricane getaway, or just a great trip. We finished nearly all the food, time to restock. In the space behind the drawer I was able to perfectly fit the Cook Partner Stove, there just isn't a better stove, it works excellent, is rugged, and was used daily on our trip.

The only thing I would have loved to have left at home was the cargo container. But, it was necessary, and for testing out the vehicle for real life situations it worked out great. This is one of my favorite spots in Tennessee west of Deep Creek.

In all the trip was 3332.2 miles and I used less than a gallon so I'm super excited.
Beautiful rig!
 
@ls6 recorded a quick example of the quality of the LEDs just for your curiosity and others. Way better than OEM, and more than enough for driving lights.
 
@highkick05 Do those need modification to fit in the housing or they are all plug and play?
Plug and play yep, visit the link to check they provide several types. Mine were HB3 (High beam) & HB4 (Low beam) not sure if others are different.

The bulb once you put it in will need to be straight up and down, u may get it right first time or may need to adjust it slightly while viewing through the light housing. Hex key provided + additional washer and few cable ties.

Need to check if you have an after market light housing or OEM , if OEM just check this page in your book I guess.
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