What did you do with your 60 this weekend?

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Bruh.. I mean is there an electric one that does not run off a belt.. Like the plenty you can get for any sbc or sbf. There is one for the 3f but just didn't have luck when looking for the 2f.
You can buy a universal water pump but you would have to remove the existing mechanical one and take out the internal impeller and block off the hole. In addition to cutting the lower hose and installing the pump with an actuator/temp sensor.

Possible but I’ve always heard OEM water pumps in these rigs are very reliable and last 150k miles. From what I understand to do above you have to remove the pump anyway.
 
I believe you can still get the Aisin (OEM) water pump for the 2F. Put a new one of those in, check all the other pulleys/tensioners that belt runs over, and you should be good.

Keep it simple unless there’s a good reason to over-complicate things. Water pumps are designed to be replaced every so often, one failing on you shouldn’t be a reason to introduce a new system (and an electric one, no less!) into your vehicle
 
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I am incredibly excited to finally get to post on this thread that my 60 is RUNNING and DRIVING! And after months and months and months of diligently working on rebuilding the rear end and reassembling the engine (most of which was either missing or in the backseat; plus a desmog), Orwell is finally on the pavement for the first time in years!

I got myself in completely over my head with this one, as I've never worked on a car before, much less rebuilding something that hasn't run in ages. But thanks to hours of scouring these forums and some hints, advice, and help from my amazing husband (who, although he hasn't worked on something so far gone previously, DOES have a fair bit of car and motorcycle work experience), Orwell not only starts, but DRIVES! I genuinely cried the first time it went down the driveway (only like 50 ft lol but I didn't stall it and I think that counts for something) from the overwhelming joy that we did it.

Obviously there's a lot left to do, aesthetically and mechanically and the entire interior is completely gutted. New water pump comes in a couple days (since it failed while tuning the carb), then I can focus on body mounts and the litany of bushings that look like they've seen better days. I'm just so excited and energized to keep on this restoration journey and I can't thank all of you enough for the help and motivation you've provided here!
 
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I am incredibly excited to finally get to post on this thread that my 60 is RUNNING and DRIVING! And after months and months and months of diligently working on rebuilding the rear end and reassembling the engine (most of which was either missing or in the backseat; plus a desmog), Orwell is finally on the pavement for the first time in years!

I got myself in completely over my head with this one, as I've never worked on a car before, much less rebuilding something that hasn't run in ages. But thanks to hours of scouring these forums and some hints, advice, and help from my amazing husband (who, although he hasn't worked on something so far gone previously, DOES have a fair bit of car and motorcycle work experience), Orwell not only starts, but DRIVES! I genuinely cried the first time it went down the driveway (only like 50 ft lol but I didn't stall it and I think that counts for something) from the overwhelming joy that we did it.

Obviously there's a lot left to do, aesthetically and mechanically and the entire interior is completely gutted. New water pump comes in a couple days (since it failed while tuning the carb), then I can focus on body mounts and the litany of bushings that look like they've seen better days. I'm just so excited and energized to keep on this restoration journey and I can't thank all of you enough for the help and motivation you've provided here!
Those wheels are awesome! Where can I get a set?
 
View attachment 4197266
I am incredibly excited to finally get to post on this thread that my 60 is RUNNING and DRIVING! And after months and months and months of diligently working on rebuilding the rear end and reassembling the engine (most of which was either missing or in the backseat; plus a desmog), Orwell is finally on the pavement for the first time in years!

I got myself in completely over my head with this one, as I've never worked on a car before, much less rebuilding something that hasn't run in ages. But thanks to hours of scouring these forums and some hints, advice, and help from my amazing husband (who, although he hasn't worked on something so far gone previously, DOES have a fair bit of car and motorcycle work experience), Orwell not only starts, but DRIVES! I genuinely cried the first time it went down the driveway (only like 50 ft lol but I didn't stall it and I think that counts for something) from the overwhelming joy that we did it.

Obviously there's a lot left to do, aesthetically and mechanically and the entire interior is completely gutted. New water pump comes in a couple days (since it failed while tuning the carb), then I can focus on body mounts and the litany of bushings that look like they've seen better days. I'm just so excited and energized to keep on this restoration journey and I can't thank all of you enough for the help and motivation you've provided here!
Awesome! 6 years ago I knew nothing to. Enough late nights reading Mud, a supportive partner, a little money for parts and tools, and a couple of folks to guide you and anything is possible. Keep at it man.
 
built a new 39 gallon tank. Had the Long Range in but had issues with feed on very long, bouncy uphill grades when the tank got under 1/4~1/3.
Opened it up and saw it only had two baffles running front to back with the pickup in front. On long steep climps the fuel would run to the back on bouncy sections. I recreated the same 39ish tank , deeper in front, shallower in back, pickup moved from front passenger to front center with substantially more baffling. Tested it with 5 gallons on the same test hill. No issues at all

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built a new 39 gallon tank. Had the Long Range in but had issues with feed on very long, bouncy uphill grades when the tank got under 1/4~1/3.
Opened it up and saw it only had two baffles running front to back with the pickup in front. On long steep climps the fuel would run to the back on bouncy sections. I recreated the same 39ish tank , deeper in front, shallower in back, pickup moved from front passenger to front center with substantially more baffling. Tested it with 5 gallons on the same test hill. No issues at all

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So is this ... a one off?
 
do you have the same issue
I've gotten fuel starved on steep inclines with the stock tank before - Lake Como in the San Juans. Combine that with one day wanting a bigger tank to reduce my reliance on jerry cans... The 2F gets real thirsty when you're in 4Low for a couple days far away from a gas pump.
 
I've gotten fuel starved on steep inclines with the stock tank before - Lake Como in the San Juans. Combine that with one day wanting a bigger tank to reduce my reliance on jerry cans... The 2F gets real thirsty when you're in 4Low for a couple days far away from a gas pump.
I had the braking done by an outside source with sheet metal equipment. I could check to see when they have time to bend up another. Shops would prefer a dozen to reduce the cost. I did a few things internally that I've always done on tanks I build. I extend the filler all the way to the opposite side, internally. That way if you lay it on the passenger (filler) side the tank won't try to dump out the cap. Obviously not an issue if you lay it on the driver side .

This is a 40 tank with that same crossover filler. I do the crossover internally on the 60.

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60 Series custom aluminum bumpers and a set of sliders today for @WSOPgold2012

Rear bumper has 7075 custom machined aluminum spindles and arms are fully removable. Front bumper with lo-pro hoop and pocketed recovery points. Both bumpers are built from 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Lo Pro hoop is 2" x 1/4" wall tube.

Flat full tread sliders.

Clean these up a bit and headed to powder coating.

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60 Series custom aluminum bumpers and a set of sliders today for @WSOPgold2012

Rear bumper has 7075 custom machined aluminum spindles and arms are fully removable. Front bumper with lo-pro hoop and pocketed recovery points. Both bumpers are built from 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Lo Pro hoop is 2" x 1/4" wall tube.

Flat full tread sliders.

Clean these up a bit and headed to powder coating.

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I imagine the weight savings with this is substantial
 
This was fun, put a new lares pump on and it didn't last three mile before failing... Think we might just go for the conversion. I did notice when doing this that the cooler had been bypassed. No idea if it was leaking or not, is it really needed for the conversion? I put the original one back on and haven't had an issues with tempature, that I know of.

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This was fun, put a new lares pump on and it didn't last three mile before failing... Think we might just go for the conversion. I did notice when doing this that the cooler had been bypassed. No idea if it was leaking or not, is it really needed for the conversion? I put the original one back on and haven't had an issues with tempature, that I know of.

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I can smell that. Seriously
 
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