What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
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Yeah. I don’t mean identical, but I’d assume maybe 20 degree difference versus 90 or more.
It also seems that it pushed the arm to the outermost point, which is what it would do with a lot of force if it had to move somewhere. Out versus in. At least in my head that’s what makes sense.
I’ll start with that adjustment, just getting it in similar position as the other side, and seeing if that changes anything. If it does, great and alignment shop can get it squared away. If it doesn’t, I’m chasing other issues.
Appreciate it man.
Timing belt and water pump today.
No record of this being done, and it’s oem belt. Looks like it’s in good condition so far, but will take a closer look when I get it off.
Forgot to buy a crankshaft pulley holder for the job. Not sure what happened to my last one. Impact won’t get it off for some reason. Any ideas feel free to shoot. Hurricane coming in and want this done before Monday lol.
No record of this being done, and it’s oem belt. Looks like it’s in good condition so far, but will take a closer look when I get it off.
Forgot to buy a crankshaft pulley holder for the job. Not sure what happened to my last one. Impact won’t get it off for some reason. Any ideas feel free to shoot. Hurricane coming in and want this done before Monday lol.
First time ever, I got a “bad” part from a Lexus dealer.
Ordered a new KDSS fixed link for the front sway bar because the bushing was worn to hell in my old one.
New fixed link is slightly bent, preventing the socket cap bolts from threading and holding on the bottom bracket.
The angle is really slight, but it’s enough that the socket cap bolt can’t go through straight. Will definitely cross thread if forced.
Reached out to the dealer with pictures. Hopefully they’ll send out a new one. For now, I’ll run the old one.
Ordered a new KDSS fixed link for the front sway bar because the bushing was worn to hell in my old one.
New fixed link is slightly bent, preventing the socket cap bolts from threading and holding on the bottom bracket.
The angle is really slight, but it’s enough that the socket cap bolt can’t go through straight. Will definitely cross thread if forced.
Reached out to the dealer with pictures. Hopefully they’ll send out a new one. For now, I’ll run the old one.
Finally put on the Maxitrax awning I had laying about for the past 3 years when they were all the rage!!
Got the brackets from Go Explore Basecamp... they were shipped out fast and worked like a charm... I went with the low style and it really keeps the awning right against the roof line1. I like it being sleek but I would probably do the high version if I was to do it over again to raise it just a bit higher.
I also ordered a third bracket... not because the others didn't support the awning well but just because I have OCD and wanted to really make sure it was super secure.
gxbasecamp.com
I don't see myself using this every single day but it is nice to have some shade when out and about.
Got the brackets from Go Explore Basecamp... they were shipped out fast and worked like a charm... I went with the low style and it really keeps the awning right against the roof line1. I like it being sleek but I would probably do the high version if I was to do it over again to raise it just a bit higher.
I also ordered a third bracket... not because the others didn't support the awning well but just because I have OCD and wanted to really make sure it was super secure.
Stock Roof Rack Awning Mount & Accessory Bracket
Our awning brackets are the perfect solution for mounting an overland awning to your stock roof rack. Whether you're mounting a Maxi-trac, an ARB, or some other awning of your choice, our brackets will get you out the door quickly.
gxbasecamp.com
I don't see myself using this every single day but it is nice to have some shade when out and about.
It's been a minute since I shared. The stock Pioneer amp held hands with the front passenger speaker as they skipped across the rainbow bridge. The truck already had a kicker mono amp & compr sub. I picked up a 4ch kicker amp in attempt to remedy the issue, so far I got some sound back on the other speakers although I'm still getting all new front and rear speakers, and rewiring them back to the amp. I also considering getting a different receiver.
Dirt and stock/previous setup:
Rats nest wiring behind the aftermarket radio, was about time I tackled this since buying the truck:
Less rats nest, removed useless blocks and wiring from the aftermarket harness:
Both amps fit snug under the seat, reused existing 4awg ground and power, added a 8awg ground block and fused 8awg power block:
Wrapped all the wiring I could, looks way better than before:
I might just eliminate the rear stock sub since the aftermarket one is good enough. To be continued..
Dirt and stock/previous setup:
Rats nest wiring behind the aftermarket radio, was about time I tackled this since buying the truck:
Less rats nest, removed useless blocks and wiring from the aftermarket harness:
Both amps fit snug under the seat, reused existing 4awg ground and power, added a 8awg ground block and fused 8awg power block:
Wrapped all the wiring I could, looks way better than before:
I might just eliminate the rear stock sub since the aftermarket one is good enough. To be continued..
Small update to above post, passenger speaker had loose wire, all speakers work now. I also realized all speakers are already upgraded so saving some $$ there, not sure about stock sub in the trunk. Fronts are Kicker CSS69, rears are Kicker CSS65, both sets come with a pair of tweeters.
The previous owner's installer carved out the front door mid speakers and glued the rear component tweeters in there, so the front doors have the 6x9 and 2 tweeters on each side. All tweeters seem to have mini high pass filters on them. Wires going into the front doors are a pair for the 6x9, and another pair used for both the mid and high. I managed to pair them all up to the Kicker 4ch amp, for the stock sub I wired both L and R pairs to the rear output.
I also picked up a new Sony receiver that supports both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. I'm still figuring out the steering wheel control wires to connect to the PAC module, if anyone has any tips please PM me!
Below is the schematics I used for the stock Pioneer amp (GM-8027ZT) and some pics of the wire pairs:
The previous owner's installer carved out the front door mid speakers and glued the rear component tweeters in there, so the front doors have the 6x9 and 2 tweeters on each side. All tweeters seem to have mini high pass filters on them. Wires going into the front doors are a pair for the 6x9, and another pair used for both the mid and high. I managed to pair them all up to the Kicker 4ch amp, for the stock sub I wired both L and R pairs to the rear output.
I also picked up a new Sony receiver that supports both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. I'm still figuring out the steering wheel control wires to connect to the PAC module, if anyone has any tips please PM me!
Below is the schematics I used for the stock Pioneer amp (GM-8027ZT) and some pics of the wire pairs:
| A | B | AMP |
Installed the Dr KDSS B.O.T.C.K today. Perfect fit. Install was a breeze. I probably didn’t need it, but the sway bar is dead level now.
a simple add on to my Napa awning.... all the new awnings seem to be coming with lighting now so I didn't want to be left behind!
A simple bungee cord as the attachment point and an inflatable LED light....
I went with the Khaki colored body so it would match the awning material and it does match pretty well! Also I picked the "yellow" lighting instead of the "white" to try to avoid the harsh glare and attracting every bug in the forest! I spent a few extra bucks and went with the 2 pack in case I felt like I needed more light and also got it with the solar charger because ...why not!
The bungee is a nice thick one that is also adjustable to allow it to be tightened up if I want to hang something heavier on it at some point. It is MORE then enough for the light and it is a 4 pack so I can put more up if I want to hang the second light up as well.
please ignore the support legs I just set everything up to try it out ....
Simple but very effective mounting with the bungee....
the color match is pretty darn good I think ....
the light does have 3 intensity settings (its on high in the photos) as well as a flashing warning setting.... the lowest setting still gives off some nice subdued light that I think will be perfect at night and wouldn't be obnoxious to others around or ruin your night vision!
It might not be as "high class" as some of the 180s and 270s with the factory lighting but I think it is going to be a nice addition to the rig!
A simple bungee cord as the attachment point and an inflatable LED light....
I went with the Khaki colored body so it would match the awning material and it does match pretty well! Also I picked the "yellow" lighting instead of the "white" to try to avoid the harsh glare and attracting every bug in the forest! I spent a few extra bucks and went with the 2 pack in case I felt like I needed more light and also got it with the solar charger because ...why not!
The bungee is a nice thick one that is also adjustable to allow it to be tightened up if I want to hang something heavier on it at some point. It is MORE then enough for the light and it is a 4 pack so I can put more up if I want to hang the second light up as well.
please ignore the support legs I just set everything up to try it out ....
Simple but very effective mounting with the bungee....
the color match is pretty darn good I think ....
the light does have 3 intensity settings (its on high in the photos) as well as a flashing warning setting.... the lowest setting still gives off some nice subdued light that I think will be perfect at night and wouldn't be obnoxious to others around or ruin your night vision!
It might not be as "high class" as some of the 180s and 270s with the factory lighting but I think it is going to be a nice addition to the rig!
love this rig. This thing hauled all my lumber for a new pergola, stairs, and hand rails on our deck. Carried home about 600 pounds of sakrete for the pergola footers, etc., etc.
Concrete finished curing, and the 12 foot (6x6) beams for the pergola were installed. Getting those bad boys into the Simpson anchors by myself was a great workout.
Not as convenient as a truck, but this rig has handled all my diy needs.
Concrete finished curing, and the 12 foot (6x6) beams for the pergola were installed. Getting those bad boys into the Simpson anchors by myself was a great workout.
Not as convenient as a truck, but this rig has handled all my diy needs.
I ditched the running boards today
Big week/weekend of some additions and upgrades:
-Finally got around to replacing the fender/engine splash guards. The OEM were about 20% in tact. Replaced with the RAD Rubber Designs version.
-Replaced the OEM video inputs in the 2nd row with four USB charging ports. Used the SBE Precision Products rear seats audio usb replacement plate and two ports from Amazon. Wired into the power for the passenger seat with a fuse tap. Kids happier now.
-Installed the Midlands Mxt-275 gmrs radio with the ghost antenna. Hidden install in the glove compartment next to the Vline grom unit. There’s a bit of interference I need to sort out- probably from having a small bit the antenna cable wound up. Routed some Ethernet cable and port to the drivers seat area but yet to commit to a permanent port for the handset and port. Will test for a bit.
-Replaced the halogen fog light bulbs with some LEDs from Diode dynamics.
-Ditch Lights! Added the Diode Dynamics Stage series 2” pros with amber back lights. Brackets are from CBI off-road. The dual function switch (Yota expedition) was added to another SBE precision panel. Goal was to keep everything as “factory” looking as possible on the interior.
What’s else…
-adjusted the sunroof alignment in an attempt to stop the rattling on (seemingly) every bump in the road. TBD how this goes.
-Fog light switch mod so they can be turned on/off independent from the low beams. Annoyed they still won’t work with the high beams…
-Car wash. She was dirty from some actual forest service roads.
-Finally got around to replacing the fender/engine splash guards. The OEM were about 20% in tact. Replaced with the RAD Rubber Designs version.
-Replaced the OEM video inputs in the 2nd row with four USB charging ports. Used the SBE Precision Products rear seats audio usb replacement plate and two ports from Amazon. Wired into the power for the passenger seat with a fuse tap. Kids happier now.
-Installed the Midlands Mxt-275 gmrs radio with the ghost antenna. Hidden install in the glove compartment next to the Vline grom unit. There’s a bit of interference I need to sort out- probably from having a small bit the antenna cable wound up. Routed some Ethernet cable and port to the drivers seat area but yet to commit to a permanent port for the handset and port. Will test for a bit.
-Replaced the halogen fog light bulbs with some LEDs from Diode dynamics.
-Ditch Lights! Added the Diode Dynamics Stage series 2” pros with amber back lights. Brackets are from CBI off-road. The dual function switch (Yota expedition) was added to another SBE precision panel. Goal was to keep everything as “factory” looking as possible on the interior.
What’s else…
-adjusted the sunroof alignment in an attempt to stop the rattling on (seemingly) every bump in the road. TBD how this goes.
-Fog light switch mod so they can be turned on/off independent from the low beams. Annoyed they still won’t work with the high beams…
-Car wash. She was dirty from some actual forest service roads.
Nicely done. How much light do DD DL give off compared to the fogs?
Way more light…useful light too… from the ditch lights. The wife and I tested on Wednesday night on a steep, narrow, switch back forest road and very VERY happy!
The fogs are underwhelming to be honest- still better than the stock halogen bulbs though. I think the oem housing is the culprit as it obscures the full output potential. I’ve seen a few folks do the conversion to delete the fog light housing and replace with brackets for the diode/baja lights- that looks like the better “fog light” option.
I think a couple of the "wide cornering" lights from Diode dynamics would do the trick. Check out the spread on these. (Not my 4runner)
I’m using the Baja Squadron Sport with Cornering lens and they work well.
In my 100 series, 01 LX470, I installed a nice yet cheap line out converter for my 12" kicker comp VR sub. I tapped into the stock subwoofer wiring for the LO converter.
With the stock system, and an aftermarket 12" sub, it's absolutely amazing. Stock head unit. It bangs hard AF. Choosing the right LO converter is key. My truck makes it really hard to change the head unit, so I did the best with what I've got (mark levinson).
That's what I did in my golf to add an aftermarket amp+sub, I picked up an lc2i and tapped the front LO from the stock radio going into the stock amp. Crazy how just adding a sub to a stock sound system changes everything.
For the GX I might be able to reduce the wiring clutter even more. The Sony HU I picked up can autodetect SWC signals. The settings have an option to map the different buttons to the different functions, so I'm getting rid of that SWI-RC and other box entirely. My semi-exhaustive search says on one of the 20-pin stock radio harness pins 6,7,8 are GND, SW1, SW2 respectively, so I can wire those up directly to the short RC-SR1 Sony 3.5mm remote cable and be done with these converter boxes. Mini weekend project..
This has been bugging me too! I don't have fogs since half my bumper is missing, but the halos I put in my projector retrofit are wired up to the fog lights so I can turn them on/off at the stalk, and they turn off with the high beams (the halos doiuble as turn signals and still work though since the signal si from a different source). However, I always leave the beam stalk on Auto, and sometimes when engaging the turn signals the stalk will accidently flip into high beams, and while they don't work during the day when the stalk is on Auto the halos are off, and that is a reminder that the talk is engaged in high beams. I'd like to wire other lights to that stalk switch though so I want to figure this out too.
Figured out my steering wheel control clean-up! Removed even more wiring and replaced it with a simple 3.5mm cable. I previously got rid of one of the boxes and just kept the PAC, and now finally removed the PAC too:
Went straight to the plug! I'll admit it's not the cleanest job but no cutting or splicing the stock plug. I got the steering controls working flawlessly now. I just shoved the wires into the plug pins and wrapped them. In my scenario pins 6, 7, 8 are GND(white), SW1(light green/red), SW2(pink/black) which match up to the Sony RC-SR1 black, green, brown respectively:
Small victories little by little. Next up I need to troubleshoot a "B0111 - Open in Side Squib Circuit" airbag fault I got while driving cross-country.
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Finished installing Dobinsons drawers. It did take quite a bit of time and if I had to do it again I'd probably do it a bit different. Instructions were not specific to GX470 (they covered all kinds of non-US sold vehicles). I'll do a write up in my 'build' thread with details if anyone is interested.
Next thing will be wiring secondary battery system... if anyone had these drawers installed please give me some good ideas how to place DC charger, battery and invertor. I can't seem to come up with a solid idea yet (stuff on a picture is not attached)
Next thing will be wiring secondary battery system... if anyone had these drawers installed please give me some good ideas how to place DC charger, battery and invertor. I can't seem to come up with a solid idea yet (stuff on a picture is not attached)
