What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week? (2 Viewers)

Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
460
Now, I can truly drive my 80-Series when I want to, versus when I have to. Leaves some buffer to save up the dough that I'll need to eventually rebuild the motor. I was quoted somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 - $16K, all told, to rebuild. Does that sound right?

I will swap in a 2uz or rebuild your 1fz with a wits end turbo for $16k.

Congrats on the the new truck, GX470's are getting harder to find with their new found popularity!
 
Last edited:

Azca

If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Joined
Oct 25, 2007
Messages
1,405
Location
Surprise AZ.
Just panic-purchased an '07 GX470 today. Been looking for a daily driver and settled on the GX because I wanted a little variety in the fleet... Found this one on CarGurus app, researched it on the Lexus site, and pulled the trigger today.

~116K miles
Timing belt/water pump (by Lexus) ~95K miles
Silver (my absolute favorite color for anything Toyota is white)

Now, I can truly drive my 80-Series when I want to, versus when I have to. Leaves some buffer to save up the dough that I'll need to eventually rebuild the motor. I was quoted somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 - $16K, all told, to rebuild. Does that sound right?

So, I'll be slapping a CSC sticker on the rear window on Friday when I retrieve my new whip. Keep an eye out.

Any plan for a monthly meeting anytime soon?

View attachment 2305690
Now that you have time, why not do most of the rebuild yourself. You will have to invest in a few more tools but, you will save a LOT of money, can replace a lot more of the "while you are in there" stuff and, learn a lot more about your cruiser. I rebuilt mine in 2015. Farmed out the heads and bottom end and my all in cost was somewhere in the $5k neighborhood. Even then, I replaced the entire AC system, new starter, all new rubber everywhere, new coil, sequoia alternator, engine mounts, radiator, power steering pump, and a lot more. Also got the opportunity to clean the bejesus out of the engine bay.
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2019
Messages
118
Location
Arizona
Just panic-purchased an '07 GX470 today. Been looking for a daily driver and settled on the GX because I wanted a little variety in the fleet... Found this one on CarGurus app, researched it on the Lexus site, and pulled the trigger today.

~116K miles
Timing belt/water pump (by Lexus) ~95K miles
Silver (my absolute favorite color for anything Toyota is white)

Now, I can truly drive my 80-Series when I want to, versus when I have to. Leaves some buffer to save up the dough that I'll need to eventually rebuild the motor. I was quoted somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 - $16K, all told, to rebuild. Does that sound right?

So, I'll be slapping a CSC sticker on the rear window on Friday when I retrieve my new whip. Keep an eye out.

Any plan for a monthly meeting anytime soon?

View attachment 2305690

$15-16k for a rebuild? Absolutely not. That is more like the price of a cheap swap. The going rate here in Phoenix and at the Land Cruiser specialty shop I use charges $4,000-$4,500 for a full rebuild.
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
20
Location
arizona
Did you fill with the same amount of oil that you drained?

From all of my reading, 10-12k cst works best in the new blue hub. If your black hub is working properly, I would change the fluid in that and run it - they are much stronger.

You sure your AC has a proper charge and no other issues?

I adjusted my older blue hub from 135f to 105f and tested it today, it still lacks at idle. I am going to work on my old black hub once the silicone shows up.
It wasn’t the most precise process I didn’t measure what came out. I drained as much as I could after putting it in the oven and outside all day in 100+ weather. Eye balled 50 mil of the 20,000 cst. When I compared how 50 mil looked versus how it looked from the factory, I filled it more than factory And manually turning the clutch was much more difficult. I read the 50 pages of on the forum and just decided to try something to see “what works for me”. The engine strain was noticeable but any increased airflow was not there, I am not sure why. My 10,000cst came in today and I have a syringe to measure how much goes in. I am afraid to mess with the black hub so I think I’m going to refill the blue hub.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
460
It wasn’t the most precise process I didn’t measure what came out. I drained as much as I could after putting it in the oven and outside all day in 100+ weather. Eye balled 50 mil of the 20,000 cst. When I compared how 50 mil looked versus how it looked from the factory, I filled it more than factory And manually turning the clutch was much more difficult. I read the 50 pages of on the forum and just decided to try something to see “what works for me”. The engine strain was noticeable but any increased airflow was not there, I am not sure why. My 10,000cst came in today and I have a syringe to measure how much goes in. I am afraid to mess with the black hub so I think I’m going to refill the blue hub.

I overfilled one once and the clutch would never disengage.

I did the same thing, i've tried 10k and 15k so far and a bit of adjusting the thermostat.

The black hub definitely pulled more at idle (when working properly) than the fully locked up blue hub with 10k.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
25,028
Location
Scottsdale Arizona
I overfilled one once and the clutch would never disengage.

I did the same thing, i've tried 10k and 15k so far and a bit of adjusting the thermostat.

The black hub definitely pulled more at idle (when working properly) than the fully locked up blue hub with 10k.

Blue hub 20 -25K some of the SC guys are at 30K
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
90
Location
Tempe, AZ
$15-16k for a rebuild? Absolutely not. That is more like the price of a cheap swap. The going rate here in Phoenix and at the Land Cruiser specialty shop I use charges $4,000-$4,500 for a full rebuild.

@Just Diddly Perhaps you would share your specialty shop with me? :angelic: A mechanic friend of mine, who taught me while helping rebuild my knuckles this Spring, has a shop and offered to do the rebuild for ~$4K. But, I got scared talking with the "expert" who quoted me the $15K when he mentioned "OEM or better" parts and putting everything back together according to spec, blah, blah, blah...

Are Land Cruisers that "special" that they require a specialist to rebuild? Seems counter-intuitive that Toyota would build such a vehicle...
 

splitshot

Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
7,646
Location
Rodent Central, Az
The reason I went was that I was told it was not passable. ;) Yes but I didnt pop up on the 288 road after the cabin. I dropped back down into Cherry Creek and came into Young from the East side around Cherry Creek Lodge. The road has a lot of damage with needed exciting bypasses in the deep switchbacks where the road no longer exists.
We went in last fall and also found the road no longer exists, would love to pick your brain on this :hmm:
034.JPG
 

92LXAZ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
1,698
Location
Chandler, AZ
Finally got the seat belt recall fixed on the 570 at Lexus Chandler. No more air bag/seat belt lights on. Best part is drove in on fumes and they do tank refill for recall fixes. Didn't know that, glad I didn't fill up on the way to work this morning.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
460
Blue hub 20 -25K some of the SC guys are at 30K

Id like to see one with 25k in it and compare how it behaves. My blue hub with 15k and the factory thermostat setting was screaming on the freeway with temps in the 60's. Either mine isn't working properly or people don't mind their fans being engaged all the time.

Right now my thermostat is set at 108 and fully opens at 140. Clutch has 10k in it and it lacks at idle in gear, but moves an insane amount of air at 2k rpm.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
25,028
Location
Scottsdale Arizona
Id like to see one with 25k in it and compare how it behaves. My blue hub with 15k and the factory thermostat setting was screaming on the freeway with temps in the 60's. Either mine isn't working properly or people don't mind their fans being engaged all the time.

Right now my thermostat is set at 108 and fully opens at 140. Clutch has 10k in it and it lacks at idle in gear, but moves an insane amount of air at 2k rpm.

Lots of post by the late Tools using 25k in blue hub. Check with @inkpot I think he is at 25 or 30k with a SC. Kevin set my Eaton up at 125° and 20K and I rarely see 200° under any condition.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
460
Lots of post by the late Tools using 25k in blue hub. Check with @inkpot I think he is at 25 or 30k with a SC. Kevin set my Eaton up at 125° and 20K and I rarely see 200° under any condition.

Yeah, ive read through hundreds of pages of threads, lots of info but its spread out all over the place and over a 15 year period. I got tired of reading and started messing with stuff. Picking up where I left off when we ran out of hot days last year. Saw temps of 215+ on payette draw a few weeks ago on a 95 degree day. AC was always ice cold and 60 seconds off idle I would be back in the low 190's. Going back to my black hub with 10k in it next.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
460
Lots of post by the late Tools using 25k in blue hub. Check with @inkpot I think he is at 25 or 30k with a SC. Kevin set my Eaton up at 125° and 20K and I rarely see 200° under any condition.

Figured out why 15k was too much for my blue hub - the one I have is the old version with 5 shearing ridges. Filled my black hub with 10k last night, going to try that out.
 
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
547
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
After too much money, trial and error, I think (hope) that my suspension is finally sorted.

I added 2" sway bar connection extensions front and rear to reduce roll, which had been annoying on the highway.

Also replaced my mashed down OME springs with 2" Tourflex progressive dual rate springs. The OME mediums (f) heavies (r) lasted only three years with several long heavily-loaded dirt tours. They were squatting, leaning in one corner, and just felt mashed down and unsupportive. Maybe I got a bad batch. Maybe they weren't a heavy enough rating. Maybe I nuked them by running them on so many loaded dirt tours without the support of sway bar extension drops.

Anyhow, the new springs are heavies in front and extra heavies in back. I've only got a couple hundred dirt miles on them so far. They're stable and comfortable under load with very little squat, and even unloaded they are surprisingly comfortable and compliant on the smaller stuff. And I think they too helped with roll. We'll see how they last.

You don't notice that they are firmer until you need them to be, if that makes sense. They also seem to perform really nicely with Dobinson's gas shocks--very controlled and polite on dirt and washboard roads.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 28, 2019
Messages
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I think I may be able to say that the functional and mechanical rehab on my 92 is getting a lot closer to being done. Not sure what done is, but its getting better. With a little help from Scott at Avid I was able to figure out my AC compressor worked. Fixed the wiring and after a single charge it has been working for two weeks. Takes a minute to get cold when its over 100 and I don't expect it to last forever, but I'm happy for now

This weekend - Finally rebuilt my front end all except the inner shafts and third member.
New Birfields - Japanese HBK (think) from Cruiser outfitters.
Installed knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters-Bearings, race, wipers etc. once i got the shafts out and tie rods off, the knuckle bearings were making noise on one side and had a dead spot on other. Both were super stiff
Wheel bearings and races were rough but only one of the lock washers and tab washers had rotated
Replaced the last two tie rod ends with the 555's. Front tie rod ends had to be done 1000 miles ago for safety.

The inner axle seal had been dripping, and I was told by the PO that the birfs had been packed but he was fibber. NO grease in the leaker at all. That side(pass) also had some decent wear on the journal. Went three rounds with different emery cloth to polish it out, and tried to get the seal in as deep as I COULD

IMG_7042.JPG


IMG_7044.JPG


IMG_7046.JPG


IMG_7049.JPG
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
20
Location
arizona
Figured out why 15k was too much for my blue hub - the one I have is the old version with 5 shearing ridges. Filled my black hub with 10k last night, going to try that out.
i am curious as to how you like the black hub with 10k. i think that's what i am going to do next.
 

zona

Rig name: Tio Nacho
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
808
Location
Chandler
Took it to @murf at Riverview to have the brake booster replaced and a couple other things! Fast, reasonable and he’s got a guy who knows 80’s!

Funny story, most of the service techs are younger than my rig and when I roll up they’re looking at it like it’s a space ship! Ogling over it, they asked a bunch of good questions! It was like the bonus round of 20 questions! Hahhaa

Thanks Murf!
Zona

68718A72-E7AD-4D4B-B749-019828874FC1.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom