70 series diesel trucks also have a ground from the bell housing to the frame, in addition to the ones you mentioned. And, I added a small jumper from the radiator to the front bib.
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What Did You Do To Your Diesel Today (WDYDTYDT)
- Thread starter OGBeno
- Start date
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I’ve had good results from using the largest diameter (smallest gauge like 0 to 0000 AWG) pure copper (not copper plated aluminum) braided welding cable for battery & starter cables. The larger the cable, the less resistance and the more amperage flows to the starter. It makes a very noticeable difference in how fast the starter turns over vs. the puny factory cables.
The Omani diesel, thanks to our own @cruisermatt, now has a new 105 steering box and a proper 300mm flywheel and clutch behind the 1HD-FT.
And because this was after our first 2k mile drive...
I had a list of additional items:
And because this was after our first 2k mile drive...
I had a list of additional items:
- Oil Change & Drivetrain Fluids: Perform a standard engine oil change. Also, since this was the first long ride post-rebuild, I think it would be a good idea to check the fluid levels and condition in the diffs, transmission, and transfer case.
- Brake Inspection: Please give the brakes a visual inspection. I noticed a squeal for a little while during the trip, but it seems to have gone away now. I'd just like to be safe and have you take a look.
- A/C Belt & Pulley Bearing: The A/C belt tends to squeal slightly at times. I was leery of overtightening it when I installed it, so it may just need a proper tension adjustment. Note that I did feel a little bit of play in the A/C pulley bearing—it wasn't a lot, and likely not enough to account for the squeal, but it is worth checking.
- Idle & Idle-Up Adjustment: I’d like you to take a look at the base idle and the A/C idle-up. Since we upgraded from the PA15 to the larger PA17 compressor, the idle-up likely needs to be dialed in and adjusted to compensate for the extra load.
- AC in general. I know it has the proper amount of R134A but sometimes it does not seem as cold as I would think it should be. Could the valve for the heater core be maladjusted so that it is always open a bit? I've sometimes put a shut off valve in the circuit that I close it off during the summer just tomake sure on this. The only other culprit I can think of is the expansion valve under the dash, but I am sure that got replaced while all the other work was going on. If you think the AC is ok, just leave it.
- Birf joint studs. Ever since my friend Zane found some missing on his 80 I have been worrying about this.
Got some custom cables in from @Fourrunner and they’re perfect. I ended up using 3 grounds this time (spare engine mount bolt hole in the block, frame and fender). Got them swapped in and the truck fired up very quickly.
These lead terminal connections are so much nicer than what was there.
For those of you with these old diesels, have you sourced a new/used EDIC motor? I’d love to have something OEM, but they’re $6-800 from what I’ve found. If I can’t find anything I’ll rig up something manual.
These lead terminal connections are so much nicer than what was there.
For those of you with these old diesels, have you sourced a new/used EDIC motor? I’d love to have something OEM, but they’re $6-800 from what I’ve found. If I can’t find anything I’ll rig up something manual.
I plan to convert to a manual cable for both my Hilux and my Dodge Cummins
I see cable setups that route from the cab to the radiator and double back so the drive can pull the handle to turn off the car. I'm wondering why a rod that can be pushed isn't more popular.
I've also seen shoelaces through the grill so you have to get out and pull it.
I will have to look closely at the setup, but to reverse direction all you usually need is a bellcrank and something/somewhere to attach it. Bellcranks can also be used to add leverage at the cost of travel.