What Did You Do To Your Diesel Today (WDYDTYDT)

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Working on getting my 2H powered hj47 started and the last part of the fuel to-do list is the sedimenter. I got carb cleaner and got all of the gunk out of it but there is some light pitting and a small amount of surface rust on the inside.

What’s the best way to proceed?
 
Could you use motorcycle gas tank sealer? I did the rusty tank of a 2 cycle outboard motor with something like this kit. Eliminated all my fuel related problems.
tank kit
 
Could you use motorcycle gas tank sealer? I did the rusty tank of a 2 cycle outboard motor with something like this kit. Eliminated all my fuel related problems.
tank kit
I was thinking something like that, but often that paint is so expensive it is close to sourcing a good second hand one. Wonder if amayama has them and how much.? simple thing, oil sits above water..
 
I was thinking something like that, but often that paint is so expensive it is close to sourcing a good second hand one. Wonder if amayama has them and how much.? simple thing, oil sits above water..
I’m seeing the part number is 2393057011 and the one website I found that has them brand new still wants over $600.

I know some people go with a Racor series 15 and add on a water detection device. That setup is almost $300 I believe and the mount and hoses will change.

Right now I’ve got my stock one soaking in white vinegar to see if it can clear up the rust a little. As long as there’s nothing loose in the can I might strap it back on.
 
I’m seeing the part number is 2393057011 and the one website I found that has them brand new still wants over $600.

I know some people go with a Racor series 15 and add on a water detection device. That setup is almost $300 I believe and the mount and hoses will change.

Right now I’ve got my stock one soaking in white vinegar to see if it can clear up the rust a little. As long as there’s nothing loose in the can I might strap it back on.
An actual racor filter is the way to go, is actually filters and polishes the fuel before it gets to your stock fuel filter, with the added benefit of the visual water separator, i got mine for 100$ somewhere online, easy to source, a big upgrade over the rotted old sedimeter cans..... mine was full of rust and mud
 
An actual racor filter is the way to go, is actually filters and polishes the fuel before it gets to your stock fuel filter, with the added benefit of the visual water separator, i got mine for 100$ somewhere online, easy to source, a big upgrade over the rotted old sedimeter cans..... mine was full of rust and mud

Which model did you go with? It looks like they also have a water detection sensor that's more complex than the stock toyota sensor, but has the same two wire output. I'm also seeing a heating element to help with colder temps. This is starting to look like the way to go.

I found the spacing for the Racor mounts (mounting holes spaced at 1.4" (35.6 mm), for 1/4" bolt). I'll see what the existing mount looks like.
 
We’ve used Racor water separator]s on the boat and they were terrific. Not cheap but you won’t be changing them as frequently. Probably 1 and done.
I have also used Kreem on some very old 1920’s - 1960’s motorcycle tanks and it has been 30 years in some cases and it is still going strong. Gotta really follow the instructions
 
I soaked the inside of the sedimenter in distilled white vinegar overnight since it’s the only acid I have. Removed a good amount of crud.

Decided to tie some twine around a drill extension I have, put 15 seconds worth of carb cleaner in it and spun the drill around a bunch. Kind of like a car wash brush and it got 90% of the junk out. It came out like a sheet too, disgusting.

Washed it out with water to get the fibers from the rope out, and hit it with some baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Finished it by coating the inside in 2 stroke oil to protect the exposed metal till I can install it and fill it back up with diesel.

The mounting holes look like they’re 110mm center to center, so a custom bracket would have to be made if I want to put the Racor in the same spot.
 
How about putting in the setup typically used with the 1HZ--the filter / primer pump in series with the pre-filter. I think they are all still available.
 
How about putting in the setup typically used with the 1HZ--the filter / primer pump in series with the pre-filter. I think they are all still available.

Haven't seen this before but this is setup is cool. Unfortunately, I think it would take more fabrication work than I'm currently capable of.
 
For as long as I can remember I've had a problem with the battery draining on the 1991 HZJ75 pickup. I finally got annoyed enough to try to really solve it. As usual when I got into things I found really, really bad wiring 'repairs' from its first life as a camel and goat feed truck in the UAE.

I pulled the dash mostly apart, looked at the fuel tank switch solenoids (which are not working), and basically unclipped every connector I could without finding the roughly 300 mA steady leak. Kind of at wit's end I decided to look at the alternator, and finally I found something that affected the leak. When I unbolted the big alternator wire the drain went from 300 mA to about 20 mA. Still too much but something. And when I unplugged (at great effort) the oval 3-pin connector on the back of the pretty new alternator the drain went away completely. So time to do something. The AI suggested that it might be a bad diode in the alternator.

I am heading back to Dubai this Friday so time was short. And besides, I was not trying to get anything special in terms of an alternator. Did the usual looking things up and found that Toyota basically used the same alternator on 80's and 75s and I went with a generic new replacement from one of the usual suspects. But before trying it I at least had to clean it up a bit to get from this:
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To this:
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I could not find my regular fuzzy harness tape so I used the self vulcanizing rubber tape which seems to work pretty well.

The repair seems to be done; I will know for sure when I get the rest of the truck put back together.
 
And in 2001 79 series diesel pickup news...

We got the report back from the machine shop about the internals of the 1HZ. About what I expected.

Piston OS 0.5
Main and conrod bearing STD
Thrust bearing STD

But the camshaft was a mess...
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The engine did sort of run before we pulled it. But only sorta...
 
How many KM'
Somewhere between 6 and 700k km as I recall.

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But I knew it was in rough shape when I decided to bid on it. And it is getting a full frame-off restoration.
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And in 2001 79 series diesel pickup news...

We got the report back from the machine shop about the internals of the 1HZ. About what I expected.

Piston OS 0.5
Main and conrod bearing STD
Thrust bearing STD

But the camshaft was a mess...
View attachment 4169693
View attachment 4169694
The engine did sort of run before we pulled it. But only sorta...
John, last month I did a swap 1HZ/R151 -> 1HDFT/H152 on a Saudi 105. I can not say enough how disgusted I was from the way the car was treated. Electrical wired stripped and twisted with no insulation like yours. Battery terminals frayed not to mention the mechanical and interior. I have no sympathy for mechanics that work like this and my hope that one they they show up at the ER and get the same kind of treatment. Absolutely disgusting.

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The repair…

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Welllll.... one is a living being and one is an 'appliance' (as @OGBeno once put it)
I do alot of things to my land cruiser i wouldnt put a person through 😅
Aint that right betsy
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@ofer bruhis I have had 2 middle eastern land cruisers and as you said. I have no sympathy for any mechanics who worked like this. Those poor trucks lived a very hard life. It took a lot to get the mechanicals back to useable. My friend @Chamba is going thru his own nightmare now with “lipstick on a pig” vehicle or “ silk purse out of a sows ear”. Which ever makes the most sense. After reading SO MANY horror stories, unless I actually visit the vehicle before purchase, I won’t go near it. Unless no matter what, it’s an awesome deal 😉

The tipping point has really shifted
 
I'm very happy to say that my son and I working together managed to get the pickup truck back together again and it is vastly improved.
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Here is a video of the test drive:
 
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@ofer bruhis I have had 2 middle eastern land cruisers and as you said. I have no sympathy for any mechanics who worked like this. Those poor trucks lived a very hard life. It took a lot to get the mechanicals back to useable. My friend @Chamba is going thru his own nightmare now with “lipstick on a pig” vehicle or “ silk purse out of a sows ear”. Which ever makes the most sense. After reading SO MANY horror stories, unless I actually visit the vehicle before purchase, I won’t go near it. Unless no matter what, it’s an awesome deal 😉

The tipping point has really shifted
Even when you see the car you make mistakes using your heart and not your head. I bought an HJ75 that was raped in Nicaragua and sexually abused my mechanics because I wanted a troopy and the price was right. If I knew then what I know now, I would not have bought it. I think the key issue is rust and it’s the most expensive expense if you want to do it right. The body was with @kelly saad for 24 months and he did a spectacular job replacing 15 body panels with OEM including the quarter panels and fabricating some. What is left from the original truck is the frame less the front leaf springs (converted to OEM coils) and 40% of the body. I’m really happy with it now but it took 3 years and that’s less 3 years that I could have enjoyed it. In the end it is satisfying to bring it from the dead.

Some before and after pics.

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Even when you see the car you make mistakes using your heart and not your head. I bought an HJ75 that was raped in Nicaragua and sexually abused my mechanics because I wanted a troopy and the price was right. If I knew then what I know now, I would not have bought it. I think the key issue is rust and it’s the most expensive expense if you want to do it right. The body was with @kelly saad for 24 months and he did a spectacular job replacing 15 body panels with OEM including the quarter panels and fabricating some. What is left from the original truck is the frame less the front leaf springs (converted to OEM coils) and 40% of the body. I’m really happy with it now but it took 3 years and that’s less 3 years that I could have enjoyed it. In the end it is satisfying to bring it from the dead.

Some before and after pics.

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That is very cool! And the plastic surgery was amazing. Good for you for perservering.

Question: I see you have a nice intercooler on that FT. DId you happen to measure before and after temperatures? The Omani diesel 80 has an FT in it and I no matter how hard I punch it (weak clutch allowing; @cruisermatt just took it in for a HD clutch and a new steering box) I can not get the temp gauge to go over about 1/5 from the bottom and the EGT stays nice and cool.

The FT and T seem to be very cool running.
 
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