Water leak/windshield trim question

[cbbr]

My search abilities are lacking this morning.... I have a water leak from the top of the windshield. Aftermarket, of course. I want to make sure before I goof something up - does the top gasket simply pull out/push in? My thought is to peel it back and silicone the spot where its leaking. The leak is around 8 inches from the side trim which I hope to leave alone.

 

[2001LC]

My search abilities are lacking this morning.... I have a water leak from the top of the windshield. Aftermarket, of course. I want to make sure before I goof something up - does the top gasket simply pull out/push in? My thought is to peel it back and silicone the spot where its leaking. The leak is around 8 inches from the side trim which I hope to leave alone.

Today. When I see a windshield has been replaced. I first inspect the side molding. I looking to see if each side, was properly installed with 4 OEM rivets. Which inner molding should be covering. If I see anything I don't like. I'll typically remove side molding. I either install properly at that time. Or if any signs of rust or damaged paint under molding. I just plugs holes with 3M windshield butyl. Leaving side molding off until day I've time to derust and paint.

The way most replacement windshields are installed. The top molding, is likely glued in. Removing it, may produce a leak. But sure you can remove an fill gap between body and windshield. You may or may not be able to press molding back in while silicone still wet.

I'd make sure leak is from along top molding first. Pressurize cabin and soap, looking for bubbles. Is one way.
Blower in window and HVAC on full set to outside air.

Bubbles in soap revealed leak. Can'tr really see bubbles in this picture. But they were there.

The above upper molding leak is due to installer poorly applying the black poly. Most of these windshield leaks Are at the 4 side molding mounting holes. Which this vehicle also had. I had already plugged those holes with windshield butyl.

This was one of the early one's I found issue of rust. From windshield install. In it. you'll see the rivets, that should be used to set side molding in.

Thread 'Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++'

Oct 4, 2017

Well I can't believe I sold The King (2001LC Thunder Cloud NO NAV ), He's be with me near 14 years and has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had the pleasure of owning & driving.

When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most, like what's failing" they said nothing just PM stuff. I asked the Service manager, he said same, only PM stuff. I asked a Toyota shop foreman, and again only PM stuff. That held true for the most part over the years, say two TSB's.

I had a Toyota Dealer replace of fluids as they replaced one exhaust...

• 2001LC
• Replies: 102
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 

 

[eknomf]

Just ran through this with mine, check the bolts under the roof trim too as they can be a culprit for leaks in that area.

If it's a keeper you would be well served to pull the glass sooner than later and address whatever you find before it gets worse.

Just posted up some photos of the repair I had done for the same issue in my "105 in Canada" thread here. A simpler approach than I took could have been to have a mobile glass person pull/install the glass, do do any appropriate rust proofing it needs DIY, and get some paint matched to finish.

 

[Patron100LC]

I'm after a long search (years actually) and before the job. I need to find the time to do this since I want to paint my 100, including the roof, and I like doing things myself, I painted several vehicles myself and don't see why paying for it when it's such a satisfying job. (Not the job but the results).

Apparently (FSM confirmed) the seal that goes above the windshield uses a specific glue to hold in place, something similar to the 3m Plastic and Emblem adhesive, which isn't the same as the Urethane used for the windshield. So if the installers (factory or aftermarket replacement) apply the plastic glue for the seal at same time the urethane is fresh, which makes sense if time is of the essence, there's a chance that that top seal is a mess of glue types that can be a pain to cleanup after removal, limiting the space you need to install new seal and glue if the windshield is in place.

Solution? Remove windshield, clean all glue and re-install using FSM procedure.

Chances of windshield coming off in 1 piece are not very good. Price of new windshield, plus the 3m ceramic tint needed to survive in a 100 series MASSIVE glass bubble in Florida (omg what a difference) makes me think about the job.. so looking for hacks to make it work w/o removing glass.

Removing the seal is needed if repainting the roof (unless you're OK with a half assed job, I'm not). Removing the seal will also reveal some rust, and allow for proper repair.

So what do I need to get the job done?
Around a week off work, good weather and a canopy for my driveway since last one flew away last storm.

If you find that the leak you have is from top seal and you do the repair by removing seal and gluing back, I'd love to hear your experience.

Good luck!


Edited to add..

The Toyota guy that designed this windshield setup deserves a place in hell next to the guy that engineered the 2004 Quattroporte Transmission. Such an amazing vehicle, with a MAJOR flaw!

Seems like they went for metal that fits rubber seal like old school glass, and at the last minute they went glue style, without changing the design, just complicating it by adding parts and making holes in the body. WTH!

Rant over.

 

[2001LC]

I'm after a long search (years actually) and before the job. I need to find the time to do this since I want to paint my 100, including the roof, and I like doing things myself, I painted several vehicles myself and don't see why paying for it when it's such a satisfying job. (Not the job but the results).

Apparently (FSM confirmed) the seal that goes above the windshield uses a specific glue to hold in place, something similar to the 3m Plastic and Emblem adhesive, which isn't the same as the Urethane used for the windshield. So if the installers (factory or aftermarket replacement) apply the plastic glue for the seal at same time the urethane is fresh, which makes sense if time is of the essence, there's a chance that that top seal is a mess of glue types that can be a pain to cleanup after removal, limiting the space you need to install new seal and glue if the windshield is in place.

Solution? Remove windshield, clean all glue and re-install using FSM procedure.

Chances of windshield coming off in 1 piece are not very good. Price of new windshield, plus the 3m ceramic tint needed to survive in a 100 series MASSIVE glass bubble in Florida (omg what a difference) makes me think about the job.. so looking for hacks to make it work w/o removing glass.

Removing the seal is needed if repainting the roof (unless you're OK with a half assed job, I'm not). Removing the seal will also reveal some rust, and allow for proper repair.

So what do I need to get the job done?
Around a week off work, good weather and a canopy for my driveway since last one flew away last storm.

If you find that the leak you have is from top seal and you do the repair by removing seal and gluing back, I'd love to hear your experience.

Good luck!


Edited to add..

The Toyota guy that designed this windshield setup deserves a place in hell next to the guy that engineered the 2004 Quattroporte Transmission. Such an amazing vehicle, with a MAJOR flaw!

Seems like they went for metal that fits rubber seal like old school glass, and at the last minute they went glue style, without changing the design, just complicating it by adding parts and making holes in the body. WTH!

Rant over.

Can you post the source(s) of Toyota recommend windshield sealant vs standard black poly. Why you say different and more like 3M adhesive?

The only thing, I like to see in sealant. Is a sealant that can move/stretch ~10%, without loosing its bond/sealing/hold in place properties.

Our frame, flex a little to much. Off road rock crawling during a 2 or 3 point or jacking vehicle up wrong. We flex frame at the bolt on #3 crossmember, windshield will then sometimes crack. A sealant that "gives", could take stress off glass.

There is a way to remove glass without breaking, most of the time. Heat inductor device. They run it around windshield over sealant to heat and soften, as they pry and stake points as needed to hold glass off old hot sealant.

 

[Gartenmeister]

Sooooo many badwindshield threads!!

Anyway, new-to-me LX has some wind noise and obviously crappy windshield replacement. Self-tapping screws into new holes. Trim seems kind of beat up. I tore it apart today just to see what I'm dealing with. Photos show what I have found; at least there doesn't seem to be any crazy rust. Can I get some advice how to put this back together for the time being so it can go on a trip? Seal up the extra holes? Silicone, butyl tape or other? Should I silicone the whole edge of the windshield? How about the mess up in the gutter? Pull that out and replace with.....? Other advice for stop-gap fixes?

I realize that eventually I need new trim pieces and rivets but not going to happen right now between time and skill set.

Thanks

 

[Live to Ski]

yikes. I got so scared w/r my noisy windshleld that I found the "pro from dover" down here in SoCal. He mentioned to me during my "fact finding mission" that he had customers from chicago drive to SoCal for the job.

 

[2001LC]

I'd:

1. Fill holes with 3M windshield butyl.
2. Power wash out, sand and dust.
3. Use carbon fiber chisel and eraser wheel, to remove black ploy. From rain gutter, roof top and side of "A" pillar. Being careful to not damage paint.
4. Drive as is, until all rust and or breaks in paint fixed.
5. Then install new molding, if you care to.

 

[Patron100LC]

Sooooo many badwindshield threads!!

Anyway, new-to-me LX has some wind noise and obviously crappy windshield replacement. Self-tapping screws into new holes. Trim seems kind of beat up. I tore it apart today just to see what I'm dealing with. Photos show what I have found; at least there doesn't seem to be any crazy rust. Can I get some advice how to put this back together for the time being so it can go on a trip? Seal up the extra holes? Silicone, butyl tape or other? Should I silicone the whole edge of the windshield? How about the mess up in the gutter? Pull that out and replace with.....? Other advice for stop-gap fixes?

I realize that eventually I need new trim pieces and rivets but not going to happen right now between time and skill set.

Thanks

View attachment 4085189View attachment 4085190View attachment 4085191View attachment 4085192View attachment 4085193

Wow.

Very messy.

Hope you make it good again.

Can you post the source(s) of Toyota recommend windshield sealant vs standard black poly. Why you say different and more like 3M adhesive?

The only thing, I like to see in sealant. Is a sealant that can move/stretch ~10%, without loosing its bond/sealing/hold in place properties.

Our frame, flex a little to much. Off road rock crawling during a 2 or 3 point or jacking vehicle up wrong. We flex frame at the bolt on #3 crossmember, windshield will then sometimes crack. A sealant that "gives", could take stress off glass.

There is a way to remove glass without breaking, most of the time. Heat inductor device. They run it around windshield over sealant to heat and soften, as they pry and stake points as needed to hold glass off old hot sealant.

Sorry @2001LC , completely missed your reply to this thread. (from a month ago )

The different glue info I mentioned is from FSM, they offer 2 separate part numbers for the goo needed for windshield, and the one used for the top rubber seal.

Thanks for the video btw.