warm ups
- Thread starter red66toy
- Start date
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red66toy said:
It's a good idea. You may get by without, especially if you add some high temp copper permatex. There is a single gasket for the intake/output manifold, and another little one that fits between the manifolds. The little one I've always had to replace when I've changed it.
I'm a firm believer that the OEM Toyota gasket is worth every penny.
- Thread starter
- #23
I was looking around on SOR and the little gasket the goes between the manifolds is discontinued for my year. Will making one out of that gasket material you can buy in a roll work, will it be able to handle the heat?
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The OEM is metalic, so I guess you need that. It isn't that expensive, I'd get the next year's (68 up) gasket and see if it can be modified (unless you can get metalic material to make yer own). You might get away with permatex high temp copper, too in this position, if you absolutely have to.
- Thread starter
- #25
Just as an update, I ordered the gaskets from SOR as Toyota didn't offer them anymore for my year. I am driving home on friday(7 hour drive 
) and will take the manifold off there and report back with another update. Thanks for all the help so far guys. 
) and will take the manifold off there and report back with another update. Thanks for all the help so far guys. 
If you end up needing an intake manifold, let me know. I have a spare. Early exhaust manifolds are getting pretty rare, so be careful removing the bolts that hold the two together. Soak them often for as long as possible with PB Blaster or Ed's Red or something before even attempting to take them out.
Good luck,
Eric
Good luck,
Eric
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey guys, I finally had a chance since I got home to start on this job. So I took the manifolds off and the heatriser is stuck in the cold position(doesn't explain long warm ups though). I soaked all the bolts in PB blaster before attempting to take them off. One manifold bolt was so loose that I could twist it off with my hand 
. I am currently soaking the heat valve in PB in hopes that it will fix the problem. I also found something interesting, in the first and second pictures you can see two cracks in the exhuast manifold. In the first pic you can see where they welded the cracks up(crappy looking job by the way). 
. I am currently soaking the heat valve in PB in hopes that it will fix the problem. I also found something interesting, in the first and second pictures you can see two cracks in the exhuast manifold. In the first pic you can see where they welded the cracks up(crappy looking job by the way).
I take it the bottom of the intake beneath the carb wasn't cracked, Chase?
red66toy said:The inside of the intake is coated in a black hard film, so if there is a crack I can't see it.
Probably a big dose of elbow grease and a wire brush. Maybe Gunk would help, too.
The stuff you've been reading about cracked intakes pretty much only applies to 75 and newer intakes. I've been in the cruiser business for 14 years now and have never seen a 67-74 intake crack. Definitely a non issue on 66 and older, because all the newer manifolds that have the potential for cracking are aluminum: 66 and older are CAST IRON, JUST LIKE THE EXHAUST!
If the carb runs ok once it's warmed up, it's prolly just a cable issue IMO. I run this same carb on my 65, with the same symptoms in the morning. Lubed the heck out of the throttle and choke cables and found that I can fine tune the settings thru the whole range of warm up. Takes a little higher idle when cold, matched to the choke. I bring them both down slowly while driving.
Best way to tell if there are other issues is to establish a baseline vacuum reading. A properly tuned F135 (siamese-bore) 1bbl should be good for 19" at idle. 21" is not uncommon. Lots of flat spots in acceleration if you cannot reach 17" as a bare minimum. Hope this helps. Mark
If the carb runs ok once it's warmed up, it's prolly just a cable issue IMO. I run this same carb on my 65, with the same symptoms in the morning. Lubed the heck out of the throttle and choke cables and found that I can fine tune the settings thru the whole range of warm up. Takes a little higher idle when cold, matched to the choke. I bring them both down slowly while driving.
Best way to tell if there are other issues is to establish a baseline vacuum reading. A properly tuned F135 (siamese-bore) 1bbl should be good for 19" at idle. 21" is not uncommon. Lots of flat spots in acceleration if you cannot reach 17" as a bare minimum. Hope this helps. Mark
What idle speed do you measure your vacuum at, Mark?
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks for the info. I measured vacuum at 500rpms and I got 19.5". The needle filckers no more than a 1/2". You have a throttle cable setup? I still have the old mechanical linkage hooked up to my carb. When I start up my cruiser it idles at like 400rpms and runs like crap but after a couple minutes it goes back up to 500rpms. I noticed that in the morning, the gas in the carb bowl sight glass is really low but once you turn the cruiser on it goes back to the normal spot(level with dot). Is this normal? Thanks. 
I have the idle set at 650 and warm up at about 900, give or take. I haven't run a tach in decades. Red66toy, you definitely need to turn your idle up! Only a tired motor will idle cold at that rpm. Hand throttles were standard for the 1bbl. The bracket that comes off of the choke plate at a right angle has a slot on either side of the set screw. The large, outboard hole is for an accelerator cable; the smaller inboard one is for the hand throttle.
- Thread starter
- #36
Oh, maybe that was my problem, too low an idle? I just set it to what the factory service manual said. I do have a hand throttle cable set up, just need to lube it a little. What did you use to lube your cable? Thanks.
If you are fortunate enough to still have the factory cable, by all means take the opportunity to completely remove it from the vehicle and give it a good service. Pull the cable out of the housing, use a small hammer and an anvil to straighten all the kinks out of the cable (this helps A LOT!) and lube the cable with 30# oil. Wire brush the cable housing and then roll it into a circle and spray the housing with WD-40. I try to do this once a year.