Valve Stem Seal Replacement (1 Viewer)

[Dizzy]

With the intake and exhaust off, my '75 2F shows signs of oil running down the valve stems. I have oil burning, at startup, out of the exhaust after the engine sits a while.

I started to replace valve stem seals, yesterday. Then, after replacing just one, I pulled the plug on the project. The existing seals look far different from the replacements.

The new seal is the short one on the right. The old ones have, "2F" cast into them. The old ones seem to be a bit larger in diameter around the valve stem - maybe due to age? I doubt that the old ones are OEM. At least three of the old ones have walked their way up the valve stem and a tad bit of shiny valve stem is visible under the seal.

Honestly, I don't understand how the valve guide is supposed to get lubrication to prevent seizure, but also have enough of cover to keep massive amounts of oil reaching the combustion chamber. I imagine that valve guide fitment plays a big role in controlling oil loss?

 

[reddingcruiser]

Just used a similar 'new' style to the ones shown (from the folks at Cruiser Outfitters) with no issues. Lubrication comes up through the cam shaft bearings to the rocker shaft and is flung around by the rockers.

 

[brian]

There is a better style used on the later 2f engines, its direct replacement.

 

[Dizzy]

Does the metal part press fit on the valve guide?

 

[Dizzy]

This is an '82 in my Craigslist collection.

 

[Dizzy]

Bump until I go shopping. @cruiseroutfit Kurt, are your seals OEM? Thanks.

Check out my spring compressor. Two OEM shackle sides and some angle 1.25 inch wide by 16". The air cleaner and alternator holes provide anchor points. I ground the angle away for 2.75 inches, and drilled a .75" hole with a Harbor Freight step drill at 7 inches from the end.

 

[brian]

Does the metal part press fit on the valve guide?

Press is a strong word, slip is a better term.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Bump until I go shopping. @cruiseroutfit Kurt, are your seals OEM? Thanks.

Check out my spring compressor. Two OEM shackle sides and some angle 1.25 inch wide by 16". The air cleaner and alternator holes provide anchor points. I ground the angle away for 2.75 inches, and drilled a .75" hole with a Harbor Freight step drill at 7 inches from the end.

View attachment 2195101

We stock both OEM Toyota and Japanese (NOK) aftermarket

 

[Dizzy]

Press is a strong word, slip is a better term.

This '82 FJ60 head has press fit seals. One hit the ceiling when it finally let go from being pried off.

 

[Steamer]

Hey Kurt. Just trying to get my head straight. Am I right to assume, that no matter what seal gets used on Dizzy's 2F and also my F.5, the seals will simply hug the valve stem and move up & down with it?
Also, for seals that stay put on the valve guide, is there a groove in the guide for the seal to hold onto?

 

[Dizzy]

By the way, that FJ60 head, on my bench pictured above, had an exhaust valve stem bent, above the valve guide. It looks like it seized on the valve guide at the location of the port. So, some oil must make its way down the seal and stem by design to prevent this? The corresponding valve guide is slightly cracked as a result of this bend.

I don't know if this motor was running EGR or an air pump; and I don't know if EGR creates deposits, and the air pump increases valve stem wear by burning off glowing carbon with more oxygen. However, all the intake valves look oily, and the exhaust valves look fired on their stem. Obviously too much oil entering the intake and exhaust ports has its problems aside from nasty looking exhaust and fouled plugs.

 

[Dizzy]

@Steamer If I remember correctly, my '75 head looks like Brian's above, with a taper on the top of the valve guide. Notice how my '82 FJ60 head has a cylindrical shape on the tip of the valve guide - therefore it allows for a press fit on the metal hood (post#5). I'm going to assume that Cruiser Outfitters is describing fitment as just that and not which part, or style, was original equipment?

 

[1911]

... I don't know if EGR creates deposits, and the air pump increases valve stem wear by burning off glowing carbon with more oxygen.

My own experience with 3FE engines in the past leads me to believe that the EGR does make more carbon build-up.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Hey Kurt. Just trying to get my head straight. Am I right to assume, that no matter what seal gets used on Dizzy's 2F and also my F.5, the seals will simply hug the valve stem and move up & down with it?
Also, for seals that stay put on the valve guide, is there a groove in the guide for the seal to hold onto?

The seals stay put, they shouldn't be moving up and down. That clear things up?

 

[Steamer]

The seals stay put, they shouldn't be moving up and down. That clear things up?

Is that all seals? Fs, F.5s, early 2Fs and later 2Fs?

 

[Dizzy]

Inside Fel-Pro® Valve Stem Seals

What are the various types of valave stem seals? What are the various types of valve stems in your car? What is the Fel-Pro product for your engine? Check out our guides here.

www.felpro.com

 

[Steamer]

Good info Dizzy!

 

[Dizzy]

I got the chance today to work on the 40. I started by checking the plug on the cylinder that I installed a replacement 'deflector' type seal (SOR), which I originally thought looked odd and it made me nervous. The plug was clean after I ran it a week ago; that is a green light in my book. Earlier, I did order some Fel-Pro seals, but more out of curiosity.

I also measured the valve guide bosses of the two heads, the earlier head has way more depth on the guide's taper, and the '82 OEM positive type seal would probably have to work like the earlier deflector seal, moving with the valve because there isn't the same shape of the guide's boss. For me, that is case closed, stick with the original style, whatever it might be.

Out of the 12 old seals I removed, many were obviously no good. One was actually cracked, and a couple were hard as a rock, and brittle. BTW, I had to improvise my tool on cylinder #6, attaching a shackle plate to the bolt behind the last exhaust valve, due to the firewall. Right off the bat, I dropped a valve keeper in the hole for a push rod, like I knew I could, but I forgot my own warning to stuff rags in there, I was just doing what I did with the other head on the bench last week. So, I have a carbide scribe with a really powerful magnet in place of a pencil eraser, and I actually pulled the keeper out from the top of the lifter, pulling the scribe out of the hole on the end of a fishing line, but only after I got the tip of the scribe stuck under the head. I'll consider it a warning to others who try to follow my haphazard ways. But, I got all the keepers and seals in with just a bit of daylight.

I got the engine put back together, cleaned the plugs, and fired up the '75 2F until I reached temperature, I burned off what is hopefully the last problematic amount of oil on the valves upon initial startup. I then pulled the plugs, inspected, none were shiny for the first time on this motor for me. I cleaned them up a bit, reinstalled, and fired it up again. Success, smokeless exhaust for the first time, both at startup and during deceleration.

Sorry, I got no pics today. My day gets eaten away, and there is a storm coming, so I was in no position to do any more than I absolutely had to. I'll post up the carnage of the stem seals after I sort thru the mess of tools and parts. I should have done this maintenance over a year ago, back when the motor was still sitting on the driveway.

 

[TheHardWay]

Congrats on a successful outcome - live and learn!

 

[Dizzy]

The one that shattered did it when I squeezed it after I removed it from the engine. The one that is cracked is how it was when it was installed in the motor. They all say, "2F" on the casting.