Vacuum Advance Distributor Questions (1 Viewer)

[Brian/99uzj100]

I have a Feb. '76 FJ40 with a 2F, a stock ignition, complete smog system, and a vacuum retard distributor. I'm considering an OEM vacuum advance dizzy that city racer sells. (19100-61180)

I have a vacuum port at the base of the carb beside the idle mixture screw to connect a vac. advance dizzy.

The pictures of the vac. advance dizzy show the condenser mounted on the dizzy body and grounded, with two black wire connector/leads.

My stock setup has the condenser mounted near the igniter and coil on the passenger fenderwell, and a single red wire running from the dizzy to the wiring harness.

From searching here on mud the red wire connects to, and triggers the igniter (IIRC).

Questions:
1. Can I remove the condenser on the vac advance dizzy body, use the black wire lead to connect to my stock red wire to trigger the igniter, and continue to use my stock condenser?

2. Can I use both condensers without a problem(fire)?

3.Is the performance advantage of a vac. advance dizzy worth the swap? I try to stick with OEM parts and don't mind paying for them.

I have disconnected the vacuum line from the VSV to the stock retard dizzy, capped the VSV port, and ran a line from the dizzy to the air cleaner and didn't notice any change in performance, good or bad.

I've tried to educate myself on coils, condensers, resistors, igniters, and distributors and learned a little bit, but I still feel like I know as much about my rigs ignition system as I do about space travel.

I like plug-n-play parts and don't want to modify my stock wiring harness or go with an aftermarket electronic ignition. Points are reliable and easy enough even for me to install/adjust.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge, advice, or opinions.

 

[GA Architect]

FWIW - I installed a new Toyota 19100-61180 points unit in my '77 about a year ago. I left the condenser on the new dizzy but removed the ground wire, due to the dizzy grounding thru the connection to the block. I installed my old igniter wire & connector from the original dizzy onto the new, and connected it back into the system as it originally was. I also attached the vacuum line from the dizzy to the EGR cut port on my carb. It was basically a 'plug-n-play' install.

I believe I've read that up grading a retard dizzy to the vac advance dizzy is a good option, but just be sure to set the timing.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

Thanks for the info. and Happy Thanksgiving. That's the same distributor I've been looking at. I edited my post to include the part number, it was kind of late when I posted...

Did your stock dizzy have the condenser mounted to it? If I install the vac. advance dist. like you did, I'll have two condensers, one on the dist. body, and one near the coil.

I'll also need to connect a "T" fitting near the EGR port on the carb. One vacuum line going to the vac. advance dizzy, and one going to the VSV (smog).

 

[GA Architect]

Did your stock dizzy have the condenser mounted to it? If I install the vac. advance dist. like you did, I'll have two condensers, one on the dist. body, and one near the coil.

Happy Thanksgiving as well, and I'll be firing up the charcoal in just a few.

My original stock dizzy did not have the condenser. Also on my 40, the condenser at the igniter isn't there, nor does mine have the condenser at the regulator either.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

Happy Thanksgiving as well, and I'll be firing up the charcoal in just a few.

My original stock dizzy did not have the condenser. Also on my 40, the condenser at the igniter isn't there, nor does mine have the condenser at the regulator either.

Nice! My whole house smells like prime rib.

I know I need at least one condenser in my setup. Last year I snapped a brittle wire on my condenser without knowing it. I always throw a rubber mat over the fender to keep from scratching the paint, before doing anything under the hood. All of a sudden my rig started running like crap under load, i.e. going up hill in 4th gear.
I had my carb rebuilt, installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, new points, cap and rotor before I found the broken wire and replaced a $15 part.

I have to give credit for me finding the broken wire to @Pin_Head for a post he made regarding ignition missing under load in high gear (bad condenser). I had changed out everything I could think of, but never looked at the wiring around the coil/ igniter area...DUH!!!

 

[Dizzy]

If you have an igniter on top of your coil (semi-transistorized ignition on a domestic '76), then I'm pretty sure that you don't use a condenser. I have the City Racer distributor, and I have it wired like I found my OEM retard distributors, with a dedicated wire (internally) to ground from the breaker plate.

I went with the vacuum advance distributor, for reasons of getting a fresh centrifugal advance. In my region you get either 86 or 88 octane, no 87. I'd rather not run high octane, because it seems like a waste, and a marketing scam for non-high compression engines, which are already loosing out on ethanol blends.

I might hook up the vacuum advance to the carb. I'd do it for cold starts, or in combination with EGR.

I just got those U-groove plugs from SOR, and they almost eliminated the use of a choke after start-up, they have a gap of about .030, and are much better than the Autolite .039 flat plugs that came with the engine. It made a huge difference in throttle response.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

i Have installed Several 19100-61180 MED cap city racer dizzy's on My shop's client vehicals , and one of My own as well ,

the first go around i was Puzzled by the extra wire / Grounding pigtail that was new to me ?

i also installed the Pertronix and a 90919-02015 COIL at the same time on My

1983 FJ43L-KC .

while on the Pertronix Tech line live phone , and there great by the way !

i inquired about the extra ground wire and i was strongly advised to keep it

and attach it to a Known good ground wire circuit NEG - / earth .


Using my Dealership ONLY issued wire harness repair manual , i attempted to


order the correct matching mating connector housing to hook up ground wire

like advised , TOYOTA disc. the connector ? NLA , that really PO'd me OFF !

screwed by TOYOTA Disc. parts sourcing once again ....

so i simply cut it off and replaced with a OEM TOYOTA YAZAKI single pin 250 series

commonly available housings i had in stock ........

you might be wondering why i went through all the trouble to hook up the

" precieved not so important new 61180 ground wire " Because the first time i

attempted to start up my MIGHTY 2F , nothing ?

i called Pertronix right away tech line live and his 3rd or 4th question was did

i hook up the dedicated ground wire or not ?

i said no , its grounded to the motor via the shaft and gears , Right ?


i was told that the rubber dizzy o-ring creats a insulation of ground issue on the 61180 ,

and that is the reason for the additional line of defense ground , without it properly hooked up at ALL times , point and Pertronix could burn up ..............

per, pertronix ,


so i hooked up ground wire as instructed and , BOOM " MY Mistress "

Fires right up on 2nd full rotation of her strong non-USA smog ports 2F !

Introducing : " MY Mistress "

​

​

 

[ToyotaMatt]

btw ,

if anyone is looking for a NOS OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS 90915-02015

internal ballast coil assy , w/ yellow zinc mounting bracket ...........

i have one availble , maybe the last one / lone surviver ?


please click the link below , takes you straight to the classifieds here on MUD .....

SOLD - N.O.S. 90919-02015 ignition Coil Internal Ballast Resister , ALL Pertronix Kits

The MOTHER of ALL Ignition Coils has Returned Once More The Mighty N.O.S. 90919-02015 NipponDenso JAPAN OEM TOYOTA Parts Maker IS Back ! Internal Ballast Resister , Calling ALL Pertronix Kits ! $199 shipped

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[GA Architect]

See page 59 - post #1,175 for Jim C's comments on the ground wire, which I believe he is referencing the 61180 dizzy.

Note: The original dizzy in my rig did not have any sort of additional ground wire, and it did have the "O-ring".

 

[ToyotaMatt]

ii would Never questions Jim' C authority on the whole Dizzy topic ,

but then why would toyota have and add a ground strap then ?

there must be a logical text book reason ?

anti over run feature maybe , or static electricity etc ............

 

[Ackcruisers]

Just reviewing this thread…. I am removing my South American CD Porter electronic ignition and coil from my 4/76 2F to install a 75-77 86920-60010 Toyota igniter (image below) with a brand new small cap non USA NOS vacuum advance distributor 19100-61010 as shown. These ignitors are foreign to me…My truck originally had the NLA 90919-02015 internal resisted coil with no igniter. Is my planned set-up going to work well with the distributor running original points with the added benefit of prolonging the life of my points? @Dizzy ?

 

[4Cruisers]

Just reviewing this thread…. I am removing my South American CD Porter electronic ignition and coil from my 4/76 2F to install a 75-77 86920-60010 Toyota igniter (image below) with a brand new small cap non USA NOS vacuum advance distributor 19100-61010 as shown. These ignitors are foreign to me…My truck originally had the NLA 90919-02015 internal resisted coil with no igniter. Is my planned set-up going to work well with the distributor running original points with the added benefit of prolonging the life of my points? @Dizzy ?

View attachment 2917729
View attachment 2917732

It should work fine. Just remove the internal condenser from the distributor. IIRC, the single wire from the distributor terminal should connect to the red wire (with green connector housing) at the igniter. Do you have the Haynes Manual? There are good diagrams on Pages 93 through 95 that show the conventional ignition (with internal condenser) and the semi-transistorized ignition (with igniter).

 

[4Cruisers]

I can post photos of those pages if you don't have the Haynes manual.

EDIT: Never mind, I see you already have the manual.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for pointing me to Haynes Chapter 4 Ignition system. It’s a great explanation and diagram of the Conventional and Semi-Transistorized ignition system. Interestingly, they offer a way to bypass the 75-77 89620-60010 igniter in the event of failure by re installing the distributor internal condenser.

The manual also says the benefits of the 89620-60010 igniter (switching circuit) are:

1. prolonged life of conventional points
2. improved spark during starting and slow running conditions

From my research, many 75-77 40’s are no longer using this 89620-60010 igniter and have gone to the later model igniters 89620-60030/31 or PerTronix II.

 

[Ackcruisers]

For the record, the 89620-60010 igniter with my non USA Vacuum Advance 19100-61010 distributor worked perfectly. Truck has never run better.