V6 oil prolbem?
- Thread starter sbourt
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Valve seals, piston rings, could be an oil leak from front main rear main oil pan
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There's no way we can diagnose that without having it in front of us. It's like calling the doctor and saying "I'm bleeding, can you tell me where?"
If it's not apparent and visible and going somewhere internally, then the BEST test you can do is a leak-down test. That will tell you if the rings are leaking or not, or if it's something more serious (head gasket, for instance).
Take a good look at the oil cooler, on the driver's side of the engine.
What's a "valve ring"?
If it's not apparent and visible and going somewhere internally, then the BEST test you can do is a leak-down test. That will tell you if the rings are leaking or not, or if it's something more serious (head gasket, for instance).
Take a good look at the oil cooler, on the driver's side of the engine.
What's a "valve ring"?
Meant piston but put valve.
That is funny stuff.
A simple compression test can also help tell if the rings are bad. I've used leak-down to find bad valves. Both are good diagnostic tests. How do the plugs look? If they look oiled you are probably passing oil past the rings. How does the coolant look? Any oil in the radiator? What about oil at the bellhousing where it mates to the engine? Lots of oil at the back of the engine would suggest a failed rear main. Same with the front of the engine around the crank pulley (common!).
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pappy
Looked at the plugs they looked normal except #3(ash deposit) may be Valve seals?
coolant looked fine/bell housing,crank pulley no oil leak,valve cover had some oil around it?
i will do a compression test some time this week.
thanks
Looked at the plugs they looked normal except #3(ash deposit) may be Valve seals?
coolant looked fine/bell housing,crank pulley no oil leak,valve cover had some oil around it?
i will do a compression test some time this week.
thanks
Who doesn't know what a valve ring is?! I mean come on! It's right next to your blinker fluid reservoir...
Here is your problem.
Below is your solution.
Do I sense a tiny bit of sarcasm?
The front crank seal is an issue, but nothing more than any other engine.
22re are not known to blow head gaskets, at least not like the 3.0 or the 1fze. Actually they are rather reliable in this regard.
Nope, not powerhouses, but they get you there and back. Though, mine is quite strong with it's few modifications.
Ya, 18mpg sucks, but that is with 33" tires and 4" of lift. I suspect in factory dress it would be closer to lower 20's.
The best solution, IMHO, is the 3.4 5VZ-FE motor. It physically bolts in place and you get get a comprehensive swap kit from offroad solutions. Kits here: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/category/engine-conversions/5vz-fe-3-4l-v6/
I had a 91 4Runner with the 3.0 and I had it rebuilt by a reputable machine shop (they did all of the 3.0 rebuilds for Toyota Dealerships in Salt Lake for the head gasket swap campaign). We didn't cut any corners. I used all toyota factory parts where available, or quality upgrades, such as ARP bolts and studs where prudent (or in some cases, cheaper than factory). They even back filled the block in the spots where the head gaskets blew. Used a forged crank and rods (Camry had forged internals in the 3VZ-FE). New toyota gaskets, seals, oil and water pump, etc. Cu$tom Cometic ML$ head ga$ket$.
My 3.0 consumed oil from the time it was rebuilt. About a quart every 2nd or 3rd fillup. It didn't leak or leave puddles.
Thinking something was wrong, I talked to the machine shop that did my rebuild as well as a couple toyota master techs and they all told me that the 3.0 consumes a bit of oil.
In retrospect, I should have swapped the 3.4. Initially, the 3.4 swap was going to be more expensive, however, after a few other issues I had after rebuilding the 3.0 (new engine wiring harness, ecu, and injectors) I could have bought the super-premo-deluxe-everything-you-need-in-one-box swap kit from ORS and been about $500 ahead...
And more power....
I had a 91 4Runner with the 3.0 and I had it rebuilt by a reputable machine shop (they did all of the 3.0 rebuilds for Toyota Dealerships in Salt Lake for the head gasket swap campaign). We didn't cut any corners. I used all toyota factory parts where available, or quality upgrades, such as ARP bolts and studs where prudent (or in some cases, cheaper than factory). They even back filled the block in the spots where the head gaskets blew. Used a forged crank and rods (Camry had forged internals in the 3VZ-FE). New toyota gaskets, seals, oil and water pump, etc. Cu$tom Cometic ML$ head ga$ket$.
My 3.0 consumed oil from the time it was rebuilt. About a quart every 2nd or 3rd fillup. It didn't leak or leave puddles.
Thinking something was wrong, I talked to the machine shop that did my rebuild as well as a couple toyota master techs and they all told me that the 3.0 consumes a bit of oil.
In retrospect, I should have swapped the 3.4. Initially, the 3.4 swap was going to be more expensive, however, after a few other issues I had after rebuilding the 3.0 (new engine wiring harness, ecu, and injectors) I could have bought the super-premo-deluxe-everything-you-need-in-one-box swap kit from ORS and been about $500 ahead...
And more power....
he's not looking to swap, or what engine is better he wants help. yes he didn't give us much info but hopefully he come back with more.
1 quart every 2nd or 3rd fillup isn't anything to be alarmed with.
It's a 26 year old engine. The time, money and energy required to deal with the problem -which is considered normal. -isn't worth the effort.