Untunable High Idle (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 23, 2020
Threads
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Messages
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Location
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Before i begin, allow me to preface this by saying that i’m new to the forums and this is my first post, so please be patient if this is in the wrong place. First cruiser, just trying to be part of this awesome community. Thank you :)

But i digress. A handful of months ago, I bought an 87 fj60 from a junkyard. It had a handful of problems, most of them small, the biggest being that it needed a carb rebuild. Everything was running fine post rebuild, albeit a little rough (likely because of spark timing) Last weekend, I replaced my oil pan, however, after the reinstall, my idle shot through the roof. It now sits at about 2k - 2750 rpm. I’ve tried adjusting the air fuel mixture, to no avail. If I tap the throttle, it will sometimes drop the rpms, but not consistently enough to be considered a fix. My only logical conclusion is that I have a vaccuum leak somewhere, as my egr system is all kinds of rusty and a lot of my hoses are pretty old. I only found one other thread discussing this problem, and it wasnt conclusive enough to include a fix. If anybody has any ideas, please feel free to share, i’m currently at my wits end.

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All that white crap on the brake booster hose and intake manifold is just lithium grease from throttle linkage luberication. I know these arent the best pictures but im not a photographer.

Sidenote - im pretty young and broke so an expensive egr delete kit is out of the question
 
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I’m going to suggest you check the linkage again...try with the engine running forcing the linkage at the carb backwards to see if the idle goes down significantly....if it’s hitting the stops and not doing much then I’m wrong.

Also check timing, make sure the distributor is tight.
 
did you remove and replace your carburetor when you replaced the oil pan? provide more details what was involved with this repair. If you didn't "touch" the carburetor, then it sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak associated with what ever you disturbed when you replaced the oil pan.
 
You can disconnect the linkage at the last press-in ball joint at the carb, and see what the result is. You’ll still be able to work the throttle as it runs.

If disconnecting solves the issue, work backwards from the carb to the gas pedal, looking for any sign of binding or hanging up on something.

If it doesn’t solve it, work forward into the carb - accelerator pump or even the pump arm at it’s pivot point sticking would be one possibility.
 
Problem solved! Thank you to everybody who insisted on it being a linkage problem: when i reinstalled the linkage on the back of the carb i mustve not torqued a bolt down all the way and one of the plates slipped out of place, which caused this whole mess. It wasnt visable on first inspection and i looked right past it. Thanks for the fix!
 
Wise and guru are words that go hand in hand.
Glad the OP got it figured out. Kudos to a junk yard truck. Now it’s time to tell us about it! And photos! I’m always in awe of the junk yard scores. Here in CT, LCs are unheard of in a yard.
 

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