The 100 is great as a daily. Just a solid vehicle. Your repair really is an upgrade. 80 is better for your purpose of off reading. My opinion.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
No pics, but Jolene got some new shiny bits. After a trip to Jay Peak with the boys, the rad was puking a bit, so new Toyota radiator along with upper and lower hoses.
swapped out the fan belt, idler, and tensioner. No more screaming in the morning.
while I was at it I popped in a new fuel filter and PS cylinder head cover gasket... ran out of steam and just tighten the DS.
swapped out the fan belt, idler, and tensioner. No more screaming in the morning.
while I was at it I popped in a new fuel filter and PS cylinder head cover gasket... ran out of steam and just tighten the DS.
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Does this count? Since I couldn’t make it to the M&G this weekend, I decided to make myself useful and replaced all the rollers, belt, and idler pulley in the dryer to get rid of a horrible squeak/squeal. Vacuumed a couple pounds of lint out of the dryer, so it may be time to clean out the ducts.
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Wrapped up the Chevy’s front end rebuild with new idler arm support, idler arm, pitman arm and steering dampener. Getting these out was a B I T C H.
Nice. Pitman and Idler replacement is quite popular in the aging FedEx fleet. Finally got it down to 2.5 hours but it’s still a pain.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Cutting up another perfectly good 80 frame 
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Three teen drivers in the house and two of them have driven the Sequoia with the parking brake on; needless to say it wasn't really functioning any more. I fully expected to have to change the brake shoes but there was 'plenty of meat left on the bone' so a quick adjustment and back in business. I made sure it was adjusted pretty close so now any application of the parking brake and you KNOW it's on you're not driving with on now
you're not driving with on now
Just got back from 7 months around the world to a dead battery. I want to get driving ASAP and as I’m sure y’all know there are wayyyy to many threads with way to many options to choose from on what battery I should get. If someone could give me a recommendation that has worked for you for regular driving and occasional winching it would be awesome. I’m not sure I have the patience to search everything in all those threads to decide for myself. I would love to get the battery tomorrow in Charlotte so something stocked in local stores would be great. Price preferably under or around 200. Thanks!
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
The 80 frame shown above is back together and under the 60 body, body mounts are started, radiator support mounts modified and burned in.
Hard to beat the Interstate batteries at Costco for under $100.
My 40 has received a lot of love in recent weeks. Thanks again to @roadstr6 and @forrest5000 for their help, advice and support, @Roxx for organizing the small group buy for the suspension and @Trollhole for fitting me into his already full schedule at the shop. Dobinsons suspension, 16” wheels, Yokohama Geolander tires, new hubcaps, and electric power steering. The wheels and bezel were repainted Cygnus White to match the top.
More improvements to come over time but for now, here is how she looks.
More improvements to come over time but for now, here is how she looks.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Looks great and nice choice on tires. I hope to enjoy the same ones someday...when I get around to finishing my yellow truck.
I saw where you did the Toyota H4 headlight upgrade and took that as an endorsement. I did that as well since I already had the bezel off. The combo of that and the LED gauge cluster upgrade a while back makes night driving more enjoyable.
lumbee1
Native American
I will second the 24F from Costco. If you kill the battery a year later after installing a backup camera with all the doors open, you can get a replacement for $4.59.
New battery and Alternator on the 40 this weekend. System couldn’t stay charged battery was from 2009 and alternator was prob original. Yes the red cable goes into the negative terminal and black into
Positive (POs electrical “handiwork”). Was hoping to make it all last until an engine swap, but here we are.
Positive (POs electrical “handiwork”). Was hoping to make it all last until an engine swap, but here we are.
Greased the ujoints liberally on the 80 yesterday, then it was onto the gx470.
rear calipers swapped yesterday, and started on the front end. passenger side receieved new hub bearing assembly, power stop drilled/slotted rotor(to.match the rears), new caliper, power stop towing pads. capped off with new Rad Rubber fender trim to replace the broken OEM.
today was drivers side loving, same stuff as above. also sucked out the front diff gear oil. could not get the drain plug knocked loose, even with pb blaster, heat, heat heat, electric impact, air impact, and floor jack with high lift handle could not breaking loose.
to do list is still rear axle bearing assemblies and seals, and parking brakes
finished it off with new tubes and tires for my daughters bicycle.
last thing before adult beverages was to mock up a renogy 100 watt panel on the roof rack.
rear calipers swapped yesterday, and started on the front end. passenger side receieved new hub bearing assembly, power stop drilled/slotted rotor(to.match the rears), new caliper, power stop towing pads. capped off with new Rad Rubber fender trim to replace the broken OEM.
today was drivers side loving, same stuff as above. also sucked out the front diff gear oil. could not get the drain plug knocked loose, even with pb blaster, heat, heat heat, electric impact, air impact, and floor jack with high lift handle could not breaking loose.
to do list is still rear axle bearing assemblies and seals, and parking brakes
finished it off with new tubes and tires for my daughters bicycle.
last thing before adult beverages was to mock up a renogy 100 watt panel on the roof rack.
As I have had to hit the starter with a wrench more than a few times over the last few years, I decided to finally replace the starter. I read on mud that a 60 series gear reduction starter would make a great upgrade. I got a rebuilt one from a Toyota dealer and had to get a new battery cable as the one from the factory was 1-2” short given the new starter is remarkably more compact. Started right up after installation and sounds like a newer vehicle. Ended up not reconnecting one of the wires (red/black) off the old one (circled). No clue what it was for. Any guesses?
The wire you are referring to goes directly to the ignition coil. It sends 12 Volts to the coil during startup to increase spark output. When the key goes from the "start" to "run" position the coil then runs on 6 Volts via the Ballast resistor.
#quarantineprojects
This is why I built the surface conditioning tool handle.
This is why I built the surface conditioning tool handle.
