Trying to check codes with paperclip and does not work??

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T

timer00

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I have done this once before when I first got the truck and it worked fine.

I jumped E1 and TE1 with a paperclip and then turned the key to on and nothing happens. The Check Engine light just stays lit. With my luck the last few days (other car possibly having steering pump/crank pulley issues) the Diagnostic stuff is fubar'd or something. :bang:

My Haynes manual says to turn key to ON first then jump terminals but that doesn't seem correct from the method thats been listed on since forever.

Any ideas ? :)
 
You need the FSM that is available here for download on mud. Haynes will steer you wrong...DUMP IT (it is like the know-it-all brother in law who is right about 70% of the time). The Toy manual is quite good.

This should work:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/600442-1996-fsm-ewd.html

Then, in the FAQ section:

Using the Vehicle Computer Codes to help Diagnose problems
If you have a 96 or newer vehicle you have an OBDII diagnostic port. You can eitehr buy a code reader or got to one of the many autoparts stores that will pull the code for you. The code will then tell you what the computer has logged as a fault. The nice thing about OBDII, is the code reader will work on ALL vehicles made 1996 and up.

If you have a 91-95 Land Cruiser, you can still pull the code with the paperclip method:



Go to this link for a discussion on it

1. With the key OFF, jump the E1 and TE1 terminals in the underhood diagnostics box with a paperclip.
2. Turn the key to the ON position, do NOT start the engine.
3. Count how many times the CEL blinks, I.E. code 25 would be two flashes, a pause, then five flashes, repeat. If there is more than one code, there will be a longer pause between codes.
4. To clear the codes, remove the EFI fuse for 15 minutes, then replace it.
In addition, you can pull the TCM code. A TCM code is where your o/d light is flashing and pertains directly to the transmission only
Originally Posted by semlin
To identify the code
1. get a metal paperclip or jumper wires
2. switch the o/d button on
2. go to the DTC output box on the fireall of the engine (small black plastic box with a pop up lid which may be labelled "DLC1". lift the lid. You should see two small grids of 3x3 contacts and the inside of the lid should have a label code. identify the E1 and TE1 contacts.
3. turn ignition on
4. go back to the DLC box and insert one end of the paper clip in the E1 hole and one end in the TE1 hole. BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GUESS ON THIS. If you don't have ther label code post up in the forum
5. go back inside and watch the o/d light flash pattern.
if it blinks continually in 2 second intervals you no longer have a problem so just pull the 10 amp dome fuse to clear the code
6. otherwise count the flashes to get a 2 digit code. the flash sequences are sapareted by a 1.5 second pause. If there are 2 codes there will be a 2.5 second pause between each fresh code.
7. remove the paper clip. turn truck off.
8. post your codes in the forum or look up in the FSM to decipher.

New - Here is Landspeeders list of OBD I codes
 
Last edited:
I have the FSM and know how to do the paper clip trick.. My problem is it will not work when I do what you posted which is from the FAQ.

It did work the last time I did it so that's my issue
 
Having the AC in the OFF position might be important.
 
blkprj80 said:
Is your paperclip coated with a thin clear plastic film?
Click to expand...

The first one my wife gave me was a blue "plastic coated" type one which I figured wouldn't work right.. I found the one I brought home from work which were the "metal" type and that didn't work either..

Does it matter there is a bunch of white grease coating the terminals I assume to protect them from corrosion or something? Would that cause a hard to get connection?
 
CJF said:
You're just not getting a good connection. :meh:

Try it again with someone sitting in the driver seat while you fiddle with the paperclip.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try this also
 
IIRC...there was a jumper that I had to remove at the bottom right of the plug where E1 and TE1 are located.
 
Kaveeks said:
IIRC...there was a jumper that I had to remove at the bottom right of the plug where E1 and TE1 are located.
Click to expand...

I think that jumper is for if you are checking the ABS system. I don't know about the 91-95 however, so you may be correct.
 
blkprj80 said:
I think that jumper is for if you are checking the ABS system. I don't know about the 91-95 however, so you may be correct.
Click to expand...

The original jumper wire that is supposed to be there is not there on mine.. probably got chucked a long time ago
 
Was there ever a resolution to this? I'm currently having the same issue. I can't get the CEL to flash - Even with @NLXTACY's fancy jumper deal. Feeling like a dum dum right now...Oh and I'm tired of the 10 MPG, this puppy is pullin currently so I'd like to get this sorted.
 
Diggs84 said:
Was there ever a resolution to this? I'm currently having the same issue. I can't get the CEL to flash - Even with @NLXTACY's fancy jumper deal. Feeling like a dum dum right now...Oh and I'm tired of the 10 MPG, this puppy is pullin currently so I'd like to get this sorted.
Click to expand...

Truck needs to be off before you insert the jumper wire. Be SURE its the correct ports you need, I've seen many errors made. Also, in the diagnostic terminal block you have the jumper opening which is all plastic, then on ONE side of it you will have the female metal connector. Be sure the pins/paperclip is ACTUALLY inside that female terminal. Again, I've seen people put it into the plastic opening only where it doesn't make good contact with the female terminal.
 
western flyer said:
You need the FSM that is available here for download on mud. Haynes will steer you wrong...DUMP IT (it is like the know-it-all brother in law who is right about 70% of the time). The Toy manual is quite good.

This should work:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/600442-1996-fsm-ewd.html

Then, in the FAQ section:

Using the Vehicle Computer Codes to help Diagnose problems
If you have a 96 or newer vehicle you have an OBDII diagnostic port. You can eitehr buy a code reader or got to one of the many autoparts stores that will pull the code for you. The code will then tell you what the computer has logged as a fault. The nice thing about OBDII, is the code reader will work on ALL vehicles made 1996 and up.

If you have a 91-95 Land Cruiser, you can still pull the code with the paperclip method:



Go to this link for a discussion on it

1. With the key OFF, jump the E1 and TE1 terminals in the underhood diagnostics box with a paperclip.
2. Turn the key to the ON position, do NOT start the engine.
3. Count how many times the CEL blinks, I.E. code 25 would be two flashes, a pause, then five flashes, repeat. If there is more than one code, there will be a longer pause between codes.
4. To clear the codes, remove the EFI fuse for 15 minutes, then replace it.
In addition, you can pull the TCM code. A TCM code is where your o/d light is flashing and pertains directly to the transmission only
Originally Posted by semlin
To identify the code
1. get a metal paperclip or jumper wires
2. switch the o/d button on
2. go to the DTC output box on the fireall of the engine (small black plastic box with a pop up lid which may be labelled "DLC1". lift the lid. You should see two small grids of 3x3 contacts and the inside of the lid should have a label code. identify the E1 and TE1 contacts.
3. turn ignition on
4. go back to the DLC box and insert one end of the paper clip in the E1 hole and one end in the TE1 hole. BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GUESS ON THIS. If you don't have ther label code post up in the forum
5. go back inside and watch the o/d light flash pattern.
if it blinks continually in 2 second intervals you no longer have a problem so just pull the 10 amp dome fuse to clear the code
6. otherwise count the flashes to get a 2 digit code. the flash sequences are sapareted by a 1.5 second pause. If there are 2 codes there will be a 2.5 second pause between each fresh code.
7. remove the paper clip. turn truck off.
8. post your codes in the forum or look up in the FSM to decipher.

New - Here is Landspeeders list of OBD I codes
Click to expand...

All of the 95s I have worked on are OBDII like the 96-97s.
 
Well @NLXTACY you were correct. I couldn't squeeze my fat head in there good enough to see that I was putting the metal in the plastic side. Code 28 :)
 
If that was directed at me...yes the friendly orange glow I've had for the past several weeks seems like a pretty good indicator that it's working. You just gave me more incentive to fix it before it does burn out haha.
 
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