TrollHole Cruisers Carb Install on a 60 (1 Viewer)

[OSS]

Maybe I'll use it for vacuum advance, and no hoses crossing the engine at all!!

Don't use the unused EVAP pipe as a vacuum advance conduit. That pipe has too much internal volume. Use a 3 to 3.5 mm ID vacuum hose.

 

[Beerfix]

Don't use the unused EVAP pipe as a vacuum advance conduit. That pipe has too much internal volume. Use a 3 to 3.5 mm ID vacuum hose.

That makes alot of sense.. thanks. Sounded good for a minute.

 

[gregnash]

@Beerfix Look at the engine block right by where the PS pump and smog pump are and you should see the casting numbers for the block. That will tell you what year engine it is.

 

[Beerfix]

Yeah please post some more pictures of your engine bay and different parts like the manifold, old carb, front of engine, etc. as that will help to identify.

Here's one that I happened to have on my phone, showing the old carb. I'll take more tonight if I don't run out of daylight.

 

[gregnash]

This should help with ID of old carb... Looks like an old 40 series carb. Which makes me wonder if the entire engine or intake are from a 40 series 2F.
Page 042 Land Cruiser Carburetor Identifier

 

[wngrog]

City Racer Carburetor in a 1984 desmogged 60

I went through this with my City Racer carb. Of note, I run a Trollhole on my 40 and it is great. I am not trying to post a "this carb v that carb" deal but maybe my thread can help you.

 

[boerboel313]

Ok. Here is my issue. My 2f is desmogged, just had the engine rebuilt, new piston, bearings, rings and such. Engine runs great until.you try and shut her off. I get terrible dieseling and a tremendous amount of fuel smell in the cab.
Any suggestions?

Im in VA now, but leaving on Sat/Mon to drive her to CA.
just spent $4000 on the rebuild and she's not running right.

Please help.

 

[gregnash]

Dieseling is usually a fuel run on issue that CAN be related to timing. I know that when I had the issue way back when, it was related to the fact that the PO had advanced the timing more than needed to get it to run without the power steering pump or smog pump. Go through and check your timing, fuel mixture, fuel screw, etc. to ensure everything is set properly. Grab the FSMs (see my sig) if you haven't.

 

[boerboel313]

Dieseling is usually a fuel run on issue that CAN be related to timing. I know that when I had the issue way back when, it was related to the fact that the PO had advanced the timing more than needed to get it to run without the power steering pump or smog pump. Go through and check your timing, fuel mixture, fuel screw, etc. to ensure everything is set properly. Grab the FSMs (see my sig) if you haven't.

Thank you.

 

[pebsmebler]

My first post here, mostly because with some searching I’ve always found the answer I was looking for so thank you everyone for that. I seem to be striking out on this one and this thread seems the best place to revive an old topic and hopefully get some help. I have an 87 de-smogged FJ60. After my de-smog 2 years ago the truck ran as well as it could with a stock dizzy and carb. Last month I installed a DUI HEI ingnition and it ran even better. Today I installed my Trollhole carb and it started right up but sounds pretty rough compared to the stock carb only at idle. I figure this is a tuning thing but that’s where my question comes.

Lean drop with the recommend 12 degrees of advance for the HEI puts my mixture screw all the way in against its seat and it will idle down to 500 rpm no problem, but my vacuum starts to drop off. Also if I open the mixture any the vacuum starts to fall off. I set my mix screw all the way in, and I’ve adjusted the idle screw to idle at 650rpm, went for a drive and overall it’s amazing the difference. Throttle response, power, even the smell is an improvement.

Before the carb install, with the desmog and HEI, at 650rpm idle I would pull 19-20 inHg constant. With the trollhole carb at 650 rpm idle it’s only around 15 inHg and sounds a bit rough. Once you apply throttle input it jumps right back up to 19-20 inHg and runs fantastic!

Is this something to worry about? Should I start to add advance to bring the vaccume up at idle and see if anything improves? I just don’t want to risk messing something up if this seems normal and just something to live with at idle.

Thanks for any and all help!

 

[boerboel313]

I’m very interested. Tired of my Weber 32/36. Been desmogged for 12 years now. Thinking of a 4.88 rehear as well to get some more up hill oomfffff. And will I need to reinstall the choke?
It was taken out when the HEI dizzy was installed.

 

[Borrego]

Really old thread, but what did you all do with the PCV valve plumbing? I've removed my entire EGR and installed the EGR block off plate from Man-A-Fre with the PCV connection. Did you just get a new hose and route it from the PCV over or behind the head and connect it there? Does it need to be connected? If not, why not?

 

[2mbb]

You do need to allow the crankcase to vent, otherwise build up of pressure due to blow by may blow out your gaskets, etc. If you do nothing else, you should put a filter on the opening to the crankcase so foreign objects don't fall into the crank case and of course plug the tube on your EGR block off plate. However, since you already have the accommodation I would connect up the PCV system as you have described. The PCV valve does has a variable flow path which is controlled by intake manifold vacuum, so make sure your PCV valve is working properly.

 

[Borrego]

Thanks!!