Transmission or Transfer Case won't engage and if engaged it would go forward only (1 Viewer)

[Paul Fan]

Transmission filter changed and it solved 50% of the problem

After replacing the transmission filter, and adding new fluid, now all tires spin strongly on all Gears except P and R.

Again, the problem is that the R won't spin backward. It hesitates a little forward then it stops. It seems that 50% issue solved (regarding the tire won't spins issue), but the reverse problem still persists.

The truck tires spin on N as well. The transmission fluid is at the correct level.

When I change Gear between P or R, I can hear a "Kedah" sound. It's not from the break but from somewhere beneath the truck.

Even the truck is in P, I still can spin the tires with my hands.

I cannot move the 4WD gear to N when I change my transmission gear to N. I have to turn off the engine and do that.

If I do that and turn on the engine on the transmission gear in N, and 4WD in N. I will not move the 4WD gear back to H anymore. It has a Grinding sound. The same thing, in this situation, I cannot move the transmission gear to P, as it will also generate a grinding sound as well.

I have the truck on the Jack Stand at this time and Here is the video that documents the steps I tested today.

 

[2001LC]

All the wheels must be stopped (pressure on brake pedal if on jack stands) and transmission shift into N, to shift transfer case in or out of H or L. Punch/snap realy realy hard on transfer case shifter, when shifting to H or L. I give it a hit with the heel of my hand into H, or a hard jerk into L. Never have I seen one that can be done lightly with just a few fingers.

The two rings I saw for a moment in your hand are not O-rings. They are drain and fill plug gasket/washers.

3 spd transmission filter for 01, which I'm pretty sure 99-02 are all the same (you can cross reference part # 3 here it's about 98% accurate) does not have O-ring on them. It has three cork gaskets. It's important to have these gasket in good working order (tight seal) or if can lose suction pressure starving the pump and torque converter of fluid.

To small a filter, may not reach low enough into pan staving pump of ATF.

Here some pictures for size reference and the gaskets.

Buying parts and making sure you've the correct part is a daunting tasks, which great care must be taken. Online stores parts numbers are very often wrong.

Also transmission fluid level must be checked at normal operating temperature, with engine running. Then shift between all gears, place in P to check level (engine still running). IIRC it's 12 qts capictity on the 3 spd. I like M1 full synthetic MV AFT in these and all power steering.

FWIW: These transmission filter don't really need replacing in most cases, just flushing with synthetic cleans really well..

 

[Spike555]

Ok, so it is the three gaskets that you need and they must be sealed correctly like @2001LC said. I have not done the filter on one of these before, every transmission filter I've ever done has a O-ring, but the gaskets do the same thing, prevent pressure loss inside the transmission.

I do not have any more idea's at the moment.

 

[Paul Fan]

Hi 2001 LC,

Thank you for your detail explanation. I appreciate you very much.

Responds to your comment:

1. I have pressure on the brake pedal and then I put the transmission shift into N, but when I try to shift the 4WD transfer case out of H, it was harder than I used to do. I have a video that I test the 4WD transfer case linkage and it was engine off, and the shifting is quite easy then. I afraid I might break the gear or something, that's why you see me use not as hard as it looks like I really feel a resistance when I trying to get the 2WD out of the H to N. I will try harder tomorrow.

2. Yes, I agree. The O-ring comes with the transmission filter kits definitely is not for the filter itself. As you stated, they are the drain and fill plug gasket/washers.

3. I appreciate your image for the filter and I compare notes with the one I installed today and I believe they are the identical filter. I believe I had installed the correct transmission filter today. The wrong one I installed a month ago had caused many of the problems mentioned in this forum. It might even cause the chucking and I thought it was driveshaft problem so I end up removed the drive shaft and install the u-join. I will make sure get the correct part for other stuff in the future. I appreciate your tips for flushing the filter and I will research more on that too.

4. For the transmission fluid level, I later also checked it when the engine is on and it is between the Cool and High. I did shift all gears and in P before I test the dip stick level again. I added about 10 qts of synthetic AFT today.

Overall, I think I am back to square one with the main issue - reverse problem.

The reverse was OK, until a short while ago (last week or two weeks ago) I drove the truck leaving the driveway (my driveway is around 30 degree upward to the street) without the front drive shaft installed (yes, I know, my wife says I am stupid - I was only having the rear drive shaft installed at that time) and I use the 4WD L which has the CDL locked automatically. It was because I researched online and I thought that it was ok to drive that way as long as I drive very slow. I was just trying to test the vibration and chucking issue when if I have only rear driveshaft installed.

After I leave the driveway, sure enough, the reverse is no longer work, and I have to drive a circle in the neighborhood to return home and park the car facing the house. So, I cannot go out anymore since the 30 degrees driveway and I cannot back up.

About spike555's recommendation earlier. I have not yet tested the "With all four wheels on the ground, transmission in park, transfer case in any gear, and parking brake off, can you push the truck a foot or more in any direction? If you can, take a video of the underside of the truck, do the drive shafts move when you push the truck? If they do then your differentials are good and we need to concentrate on the transfer case...." so far, I am pretty sure it is central transfer case and/or transmission issue instead of the front or rear differentials. I will check the transmission fluid level and test the spike555 scenario tomorrow.

 

[2001LC]

Hi 2001 LC,

Thank you for your detail explanation. I appreciate you very much.

Responds to your comment:

1. I have pressure on the brake pedal and then I put the transmission shift into N, but when I try to shift the 4WD transfer case out of H, it was harder than I used to do. I have a video that I test the 4WD transfer case linkage and it was engine off, and the shifting is quite easy then. I afraid I might break the gear or something, that's why you see me use not as hard as it looks like I really feel a resistance when I trying to get the 2WD out of the H to N. I will try harder tomorrow. You'll not break the gear of transfer case, provided in N with foot on brake (I assume brakes work)

2. Yes, I agree. The O-ring comes with the transmission filter kits definitely is not for the filter itself. As you stated, they are the drain and fill plug gasket/washers.

3. I appreciate your image for the filter and I compare notes with the one I installed today and I believe they are the identical filter. I believe I had installed the correct transmission filter today. The wrong one I installed a month ago had caused many of the problems mentioned in this forum. It might even cause the chucking and I thought it was driveshaft problem so I end up removed the drive shaft and install the u-join. I will make sure get the correct part for other stuff in the future. I appreciate your tips for flushing the filter and I will research more on that too. Just to be clear: Toyota names stuff a little different:
Front Drive shaft (AKA CV, AKA front axle).
The forward propeller shaft connect transfer case to front differential.
The aft propeller shaft connects transfer case to rear differential.
Spider (AKA U-joint)

4. For the transmission fluid level, I later also checked it when the engine is on and it is between the Cool and High. I did shift all gears and in P before I test the dip stick level again. I added about 10 qts of synthetic AFT today. Take it to all the way up to high mark on dipstick.

Overall, I think I am back to square one with the main issue - reverse problem.

The reverse was OK, until a short while ago (last week or two weeks ago) I drove the truck leaving the driveway (my driveway is around 30 degree upward to the street) without the front drive shaft installed (yes, I know, my wife says I am stupid - I was only having the rear drive shaft installed at that time) and I use the 4WD L which has the CDL locked automatically. It was because I researched online and I thought that it was ok to drive that way as long as I drive very slow. I was just trying to test the vibration and chucking issue when if I have only rear driveshaft installed. I really don't think you hurt anything driving with forward propeller shaft out, L and CDL on.

Just to be clear: Your 100 series is always in 4WD. The transfer case H to L just puts you in very low gear. While CDL is engaged it spread power evenly from front to rear wheels. CDL off and it's a 60/40 split. I've driven many miles on black top with CDL engaged, no issues ever.

After I leave the driveway, sure enough, the reverse is no longer work, and I have to drive a circle in the neighborhood to return home and park the car facing the house. So, I cannot go out anymore since the 30 degrees driveway and I cannot back up.

About spike555's recommendation earlier. I have not yet tested the "With all four wheels on the ground, transmission in park, transfer case in any gear, and parking brake off, can you push the truck a foot or more in any direction? If you can, take a video of the underside of the truck, do the drive shafts move when you push the truck? If they do then your differentials are good and we need to concentrate on the transfer case...." so far, I am pretty sure it is central transfer case and/or transmission issue instead of the front or rear differentials. I will check the transmission fluid level and test the spike555 scenario tomorrow.

^^^Expand for comments^^^

You do have both propeller shaft in now, correct?

It would be best to top off transmission to high mark now, while running and at operating temperature. You've likely been drive without adequate fluid pumping through at proper pressure.

Lets get everything to spec first thing.

 

[camino70]

Paul,
Where is Atlanta are you?

 

[Paul Fan]

Hi 2001LC, Yes. I have both drive shaft (propeller shaft) on already when I first posted here for help few days ago. Thank you for your other recommendation. I will top off the transmission fluid to high mark, and check other things, and test again today or tomorrow.

Hi camino70, Thank you for your message. I live on North side of the city called Alpharetta, which is 35 min away from downtown Atlanta.

 

[camino70]

I'm in Canton, right on the Alpharetta border, want some company staring at wheels spinning (or not)?

 

[Paul Fan]

Hi Camino70, thanks a lot! Not at this time because I would like to hope if I can get the truck fixed and other things done first

 

[2001LC]

That was so nice of you @camino70 to offer to take your time and drive over to Paul Fan's.

Paul Fan, I really think you should accept his offer. He's a good handle on this stuff, and two sets of eye's are very much needed in this situation. Even if topping fluid works, you'll need someone that really knows the ride feel and sounds of these rigs. He does.

 

[Spike555]

In situations like these, another set of eyeballs and another brain is always a good thing.

 

[Paul Fan]

Hi all, thank you.

Today, I have to wait for the transmission pan's drain plug. Last time, I damaged the drain plug so I ordered a new one a few days ago. I previous order an OEM one from eBay but the thread on the pan has gone so I cannot use it. Since the old one cannot screw tight enough and has a little bit of leaking now, I will get that fix first. The thread on the screw has gone out; so I purchased this universal drain plug (B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit) from Amazon and should be arriving in 1-2 days.

I am not sure I should also add or mix the central transfer case fluid too. I read the specs say I should add 75W-90, but I have previously added 80W-90 Gear fluid for the central transfer case and both front/rear differentials. I read online and it seems that either 75W-90 or 80W-90 is ok for Toyota. I got the Super Tech 80W-90 High-Performance Gear Oil, 1 Gallon from Walmart.

For Transmission, I use this Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF, 1 Gallon transmission fluid from Walmart too. Not sure if I should continue using those brand. I use a more expensive Red Line 30505 D4 Automatic Transmission Fluid before, but I felt it has produced no difference for the truck.

If I got the new pan screw tomorrow, I will add the transmission fluid again to the speck and test it again.

Thank you for the offer. I would need to get this truck's reverse fixed before able to drive around again.

Currently, I cannot back up the truck, that means I cannot move out of the driveway since the reverse won't work. The driveway is a steep grade driveway, so push the truck backward on a 30~40-degree grade driveway toward the street is not possible.

Thanks all for your help! Truly appreciate you guys.

 

[hidesertwheelin]

Hi all, thank you.

Today, I have to wait for the transmission pan's drain plug. Last time, I damaged the drain plug so I ordered a new one a few days ago. I previous order an OEM one from eBay but the thread on the pan has gone so I cannot use it. Since the old one cannot screw tight enough and has a little bit of leaking now, I will get that fix first. The thread on the screw has gone out; so I purchased this universal drain plug (B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit) from Amazon and should be arriving in 1-2 days.

I am not sure I should also add or mix the central transfer case fluid too. I read the specs say I should add 75W-90, but I have previously added 80W-90 Gear fluid for the central transfer case and both front/rear differentials. I read online and it seems that either 75W-90 or 80W-90 is ok for Toyota. I got the Super Tech 80W-90 High-Performance Gear Oil, 1 Gallon from Walmart.

For Transmission, I use this Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF, 1 Gallon transmission fluid from Walmart too. Not sure if I should continue using those brand. I use a more expensive Red Line 30505 D4 Automatic Transmission Fluid before, but I felt it has produced no difference for the truck.

If I got the new pan screw tomorrow, I will add the transmission fluid again to the speck and test it again.

Thank you for the offer. I would need to get this truck's reverse fixed before able to drive around again.

Currently, I cannot back up the truck, that means I cannot move out of the driveway since the reverse won't work. The driveway is a steep grade driveway, so push the truck backward on a 30~40-degree grade driveway toward the street is not possible.

Thanks all for your help! Truly appreciate you guys.

I believe @camino70 was offering to help you get it moving......

 

[Paul Fan]

Oh, I'm sorry I think I was misunderstanding camino70. I was thinking that the truck cannot be moved, so I won't be able to go out doing anything with the truck. I will try to get the fluid changed again tomorrow, including the transfer case fluid and report back. Thank you very much.

 

[2001LC]

Oil pan drain hole threads will need cleaning out, before installing new oil pan drain plug. Make sure to use a new Toyota oil Drain washer of your new drain plug.

I'd take that cheap Walmart 80w-90 back if not yet in. Get some Mobil one or any top shelve synthetic gear lube.

You'll need 2 new Toyota washer/gaskets for the drain plugs of Transfer case as well.


Auto parts stores will load you a thread cleaning kit.

 

[Paul Fan]

Hi 2001LC,

Thank you so much. I will follow your advice.

I would probably do the rest of the recommended steps in few more days, as I have not received the new drain plug yet. I will provide another update soon.

 

[Spike555]

The transmission fluid you're using is fine, same stuff as me.

Don't bother with expensive gear oil right now, use what you have and get the truck moving.
Once it's all up and running and drivable again, you can worry about the gear oil.

 

[Paul Fan]

This is a quick update.

Today I have installed the drain plug and add transmission oil again.

The is what I observed and further test I did:

1. The reverse still not working (I still have the truck on the Jack Stand).

2. I removed both front and rear drive shaft and test it again and the result is still the same.

3. I noticed that I can switch my gear to the R, and I still be able to move the 4WD gear H/N/L back and forth (this is not correct, I should only able to do that when I switch gear to the N).

4. If I switch the gear to either N,D,L, I cannot move the 4WD gear at all, if I insist, I will hear loud grinding noise from the transfer case.

5. If I switch my gear to the R, and move the 4WD gear to N (it allows me to do that), then I can not move the transmission gear to P anymore, as I will hear the grinding noise from the transmission (It seems like the park pall engages to a moving toothed gear on the trans main shaft, and this should not happen as the 4WD gear is at the N position).

6. When 4WD in H and transmission in N,D,L, the output shaft will spin strongly and a torch is strong and I cannot stop it with both of my hand. When in P or R, the output shaft stop and I can spin the output shaft freely as if it is in the Neutral.

Summary on the transmission gears condition:

* D/L works ok. The truck is on the Jack and it spins forward strongly.
* N is no longer Neutral. If I depress the gas pedal, the truck wheel spins as it is in the D.
* R is not working. I mean I did notice and small 1-inch tire spins reverse with a chunk when the R gear engaged; but after that, no movement in reverse at all.

Solenoid? Valve body? There is no engine warning light. I have OBD-II tool, and I cannot find any transmission related errors. If there is any error, based on the error code, I should see which solenoid broke and need replaces? The current error on the dashboard is ABS, but that does not relate to the symptom I experienced here. I am thinking about buy 3 solenoid and replace them anyway, but there are no electronic faults so I am not sure about the solenoid. But it is likely that a single solenoid failure could cause the multiple weird symptoms? Or perhaps a failed Valve body? Since all forward gears work fine, I think that means all solenoids do go off and on, otherwise the forward gears would have some kind of problem too?

Linkage problem? If it is a faulty gear selection sensor, would that have produced an error code too? Moreover, the truck doesn't start in any gear other than P or N, so the linkage should be fine. Also, I check under the truck for gearshift linkage, and that transmission shift linkage that attached on to the transmission has the correct position when I switch to P, R or N, D, L. I tested it by manually shift the linkage to R position under the truck, and the backup lights Come On when it is it in reverse, but the truck's wheel just still won't spin anymore in reverse gear.

This is all happened after I install only the rear shaft and try to drive with - 4WD / L - weeks ago. When in R it feels like it's in P, in N it almost like it's in D (But it is not linkage issue). The D/L gears were fine. I hope this is not a transmission mechanical problem as it may require a transmission rebuild and that's is out of my expertise and budget.

Any recommendation is very appreciated!

 

[2001LC]

I don't see how running with transfer case in L or H with propeller shaft out would cause any issue. But it does sound like transmission is bad. I've not a clue of what internally part(s) are bad. Id take to transmission shop to be diagnosed. If bad pick up a used transmission and install, unless it's and easy fix. Weight the cost of fixing vs used trans!

 

[PNG27]

Hi Paul, I'm having similar trouble with Rig Toyota Landcruiser HDJ81. Just wondering if you fixed the problem? If so what did it take?