Transgo kit / Valve body gaskets (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

1973Guppie

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Threads
952
Messages
10,227
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
Hi Guys, getting ready to install a transgo reprogramming kit in my 96 fzj80 and it requires you have the valve body gaskets on hand. I want to order these from the local toyota dealer but they are clueless with parts lookup. Does anyone have the proper toyota part numbers for the gaskets needed?

Also, if anyone has done this mod and knows the "type" of valve body to follow in the instructions that would be helpful. Looks like choices are type 1 vb, type 2 vb, type 3 vb and type 4 vb.

Thanks!

Noah

ps - here's a link to a part lookup but no toy part #'s?

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/s...key_make=1021&modelYear=1996&ukey_model=14414
 
Well s*** wouldn't you know I didn't write the part numbers down, but these are the two gaskets that you need.

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/p...SKET--VALVE-BODY--NO1/2051700/3543330064.html
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/p...SKET--VALVE-BODY--NO2/2051752/3543430076.html


When you do the valve body make sure you read the instructions twice from front to back. lol.

There are a couple of points when doing it that doing something wrong could end up with springs and balls all over the floor. Also make sure when reinstalling that you line up the "shift fork" with the rod on the valve body or you will be dropping the pan and pulling everything out again.
 
Very interested to hear why you chose this product, what you hope to gain, impressions after using it, and ease of installation.

Thanks

John
 
Very interested to hear why you chose this product, what you hope to gain, impressions after using it, and ease of installation.

X2. I've got this sitting and waiting to install. I guess I need to order some gaskets :doh:
 
It sounds like it replaces the reason to by the Nomad kit from wholesale automatics then? I'm keen to have a lockup switch and thought their kit was the only way. Does the transgo reprogram kit allow for the installation of a lock up switch that works in Low Range?
 
I emailed wholesale asking many times about their kit and what it actually does, and never got an answer. This kit you increase fluid flow to increase clamping force and also change the springs on the pressure regulator and the buffers. I would bet it is the same thing they do.

You can install a lockup switch on any valve body as it isn't the valvebody doing the lockup.
 
My PO did this roughly 15k ago and it is a noticable improvement over every other 80 I've driven without it - makes it feel much crisper and precise in shifting, with less lag or "hang-time" in between shifts.... I wasn't aware of it until I found the receipts but noted it on my test drive as an attribute.

Not sure if there is any long-term downside but it is certainly seems like an improvement.
 
My PO did this roughly 15k ago and it is a noticable improvement over every other 80 I've driven without it - makes it feel much crisper and precise in shifting, with less lag or "hang-time" in between shifts.... I wasn't aware of it until I found the receipts but noted it on my test drive as an attribute.

Not sure if there is any long-term downside but it is certainly seems like an improvement.

thx for your comments! really excited about this and the supercharger combo, will take a few weeks to get all the stuff done I am planning and then will update my build thread.......
 
I also have emailed Wholesale and came to the conclusion that I had to have a new valve body to lock in low 1st and 2nd gears.

Scott are you running a lock up switch?
 
ya i thought it was only me ,as far as wholesale went. i guess they have bigger fish to fry,turn around time was none existance twice when i tried to buy a v/b for my 442f. im hopeing longbow markets his v/b upgrade. i wonder if transgo has the upgrade for the a442f. somebody happen to know?
 
Ok I missed that I didn't comment on the ease of installation. Really this is about a 1.5 maybe 2 banana job. It is just messy as trans fluid will rain down on you.

From memory so hope I don't miss anything

1.) pull the plug drain the pan
2.) unbolt the pan and cut the FIPG and pull the pan off, it can offer quite a bit of resistance
3.) unbolt the filter and pull it off by pulling straight down
4.) there is a feed tube from the trans body to the valvebody pull it out again it pulls straight out has some resistance
5.) Now stand under the truck with trans fluid dripping all over you. There will be 3 electrical plugs for the solenoids unplug them
6.) unbolt the 1000 bolts that hold the valve body in. Note that there are 2 different lengths
7.) there will be 3 buffers with springs on them that fall out catch them
8.) take the valve body and buffers over to a clean work bench and sit down and take your time
9.) take a piece of cardboard and punch holes to match the bolts in the valve body. This way when you take a bolt out you put it in the right place on the cardboard and it transfers back to the right place when you reassemble.
10.) make sure the valve body is oriented the way the say in the directions when you seperate the halves or springs and balls will fall out.
11.) You will be drilling 3 holes in the plate that seperates the 2 halves of the valve body, the directions will show you exactly where to drill, really all you are doing is enlarging 3 holes and the drill bits are included in the kit.
12.) set the plate aside and look inside the valve body. There will be a series of springs and balls, match up the location with the diagram provided, if I remember correctly I had to remove one ball and maybe one spring.
13.) on the buffer they have an inner and outer spring. The inner spring is captured on the buffer and you need to use a pair of pliers to physicaly man handle the spring off. I used a pair of side cuts and just grabbed the spring little by little close to the bottom and twisted after a couple times it popped off. Keep the uncaptured spring as you will reuse it but you can toss the spring you removed as it will be garbage by the time you are done.
14.) now using the guide you will match up the spring colors to the buffers. (Keep in mind the transgo kit is for many different trans so you will have lots of extra springs and parts)
15.) Now remove the Pressure Regulator (it would be driver's side front if the vb was in the truck) and it's spring and replace it with the spring in the kit. Reinstall
16.) take your new gaskets put some transfluid on them, put the first one down, then the plate you modified and then the 2nd gasket and finally the second half of the valve body.
17.) grab your cardboard and transfer the 20+ bolts back to the valve body and carefully torque them all down, it isn't much torque.
18.) back to the truck and a second set of hands is really handy here, because you have to stuff the new heavier sprung buffers up into the tubes while trying to align the valve body and get some bolts started. Also when you are putting the valve body in, on the front passengers side there is a "shift fork" make sure that gets lined up with the rod on the valve body or else your shifter won't work and you will be pulling everything back apart.
19.) torque the 1000 bolts back in place
20.) reinstall the feed tube
21.) clean the filter and reinstall it
22.) new FIPG on the clean pan and reinstall and torque down the bolts.
23.) refill trans fluid
24.) shift through the gears with your foot on the brake
25.) kick back with cold beverage of choice.
26.) don't forget to check fluid levels once up to temp and you have some drive time.
 
Last edited:
Hey Scott

I've been spoiled by manual tranny diesel cruisers for the last 15 years. Hill descent on the British Columbian coast and where I live sure sucks in these autos and I spend more time riding the brake than letting the tranny do the job.

Looking for more rigid control. Been thinking a lock up switch will do just fine.


Stall might be a problem but you can at least restart
 
You can restart but you lose power brakes, at the worst possible time lol. Everyone has their prefs. If I were that diehard a manual fan I wouldn't mess with the A343 and swap a 151 in. I thought you guys in Canada could get that good stuff :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom