toyota tar mat / sound deadener removal? Tips? Tricks? (1 Viewer)

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So i am finally diving into my damplifier install. I've read about folks who put it over the old tar mat, and those that put it on bare metal. It seems it works better when bare metal - so that's what i want to do. Seems dumb to spend $$ on quality dampener and put on old crappy tar. my .02 and let me know if i'm wrong!

Anyone tore out the old tar mat / toyota sound deadener? I've been wire wheeling the stuck jute and vacuuming... kind of hitting a wall on what to do to get the tar mat out.

I read a thread that used air chisel - maybe look at getting one if my small compressor will push it! Maybe some dry ice to help it out...

why do i start these projects at 6pm on a sunday... :doh:

guess i'll drive the 87 tomorrow - full of crap in the back...:steer:

I'll post some pics of what it looks like now, and hopefully with more as i get the new damplifier installed.

TIA!

rob
 
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I used an air chisel to remove mine. It comes up in big pieces. You have to be careful as it is easy to go through the floor. Don't ask how I know this. I'm about 90% done with my Damplifier install. It takes some time but I think it will be worth it in the long haul. Good luck and go slow with the air chisel.
 

NLXTACY

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Dry ice!!!!!!

I bought a hunk of it when I filled my C02 tank the last time and sure enough, it froze the tar so I can smash it with a hammer. It comes off in chunks. It would take a few pieces of dry ice but it works.
 
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thanks guys! I think i'll try the dry ice/hammer route to start. If that is taking too long i'll try to get an air chisel from a buddy.

Dry ice!!!!!!

I bought a hunk of it when I filled my C02 tank the last time and sure enough, it froze the tar so I can smash it with a hammer. It comes off in chunks. It would take a few pieces of dry ice but it works.
how did you do it - just set it on a section or "rub" it ...etc. And for how long? how much did it take? I haven't bought dry ice since i made some 2 liter "firecrackers" with it. fun. damn - nearly 15 years ago...:hmm:

While trying to figure that out - Got 3/4 of the PS door inner done... slow going, but still figuring out best way to do it quickly. Should get faster as i go (hopefully).

I shot a couple pics with seats out, nothing exciting. I'll get some more when i start breaking the old tar out.

thanks for the ideas guys. anyone else have suggestions or tips?

rob
 
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I used an air chisel to remove mine. It comes up in big pieces. You have to be careful as it is easy to go through the floor. Don't ask how I know this. I'm about 90% done with my Damplifier install. It takes some time but I think it will be worth it in the long haul. Good luck and go slow with the air chisel.
how long has it taken you? what are you installing (damp or damp pro?) - how much did you get and how much do you think you'll have left over (if any)? Anything else on top - any areas of two layers or...?

punched through huh? that must've been fun to fix. pics?

:cheers:
rob
 

NLXTACY

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how did you do it - just set it on a section or "rub" it ...etc. And for how long? how much did it take? I haven't bought dry ice since i made some 2 liter "firecrackers" with it. fun. damn - nearly 15 years ago...:hmm:
I just placed it on the section I was testing with. I had it there for a few minutes but I have a feeling it would only need a minute.

BTW, another sure fire way to get the tar up easily.....




























Coolant, yes engine coolant. Ask SPIKE STRIP how we know :flipoff2:
 
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NLX - thanks i think i'll try the dry ice. i'm a little scared to know the story about Spike Strips coolant removing trick... hehehe. Was it intentional?

84oz - 16 hours? ouch. I hope this will be MUCH faster! We'll see!

thanks guys!

rob
 
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If it is still firmly attached after 20 years, why do you want to take the factory stuff off? The reason to go with the butyl rubber after market stuff instead of the asphalt stuff it because the asphalt after market stuff tends to fall off. But even if the factory stuff is asphalt, it's stood the test of time. Hopefully my butyl rubber stuff will stay on 20 years.

So, someone help me understand why the factory dampener has to go even when it is still firmly attached? Unless someone changes my mind, I'm planning on putting the RAAMAT right over it. The factory stuff in conjunction with the new stuff will make things even more quiet.
 
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SLC - great question. I think i'll call Anthony (Second Skin Prez) and see what he says. I'd heard it wasn't quite as effective, so didn't want to put expensive new dampener over old if it doesn't work as well. If i hear it works even better (layering principle) then I will absolutely leave it in and cover w/ new!

anyone else chime in on this?

rob
 
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Don't know anything about leaving it but at about -20 F it chips right off. I was sliding something in the truck and chipped a bunch of it off.

YMMV
John
 
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Air chisel in about 10 minutes per side. Never had to use ice, or anything else.
 
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how long has it taken you? what are you installing (damp or damp pro?) - how much did you get and how much do you think you'll have left over (if any)? Anything else on top - any areas of two layers or...?

punched through huh? that must've been fun to fix. pics?

:cheers:
rob
I don't know how many hours I have into it. It took me much longer to put it down than to pull up the old tar. I am a bit obsessive about things so you might go faster. I pulled up the all the tar except in the cargo area. I did this because I had some rust under the tar in the drivers footwell area. I wanted to make sure that there wasn't any more rust hiding. The tar in my cargo area was in good shape and it's much thinner back there then in the front so I just left it.

I bought 80 sq. ft. or what they call the shop pack of the Damplifier Pro. I didn't double up anywhere except around the transmission hump. I also did inside all of the doors and inside the rear quarter panels. I'm not completely done but if I won't have a lot left over. Not enough to order a smaller amount.

As for punching through the floor, I did so in two places. It's not like the whole chisel went through the floor, it was just the corner of it. The two holes were about 1/16" or less, just enough to see light peeking through them. I pounded them back up from underneath, filled it with JB Weld, painted both sides and continued.

I am also putting new 1/2" carpet padding in.

I would say skip the dry ice. Maybe try both ways and see if the dry ice is worth it. If you use an air chisel just go slow. The floor is very uneven so if the chisel hits a uneven area and stops while you finger is still on the trigger it will go through the floor in no time. I don't want to seem too alarmist but I wish I had gone a little slower. There are also holes in the floor that the tar covers up and the chisel can get stuck in there. After removing the tar you will have to plug the holes before you lay down the Damplifier.

Good luck.
 

NLXTACY

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I would say skip the dry ice. Maybe try both ways and see if the dry ice is worth it. If you use an air chisel just go slow. The floor is very uneven so if the chisel hits a uneven area and stops while you finger is still on the trigger it will go through the floor in no time. I don't want to seem too alarmist but I wish I had gone a little slower.
Sounds like a fan-freaking-tastic reason to try the dry ice first IMVHO :meh:
 
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Sounds like a fan-freaking-tastic reason to try the dry ice first IMVHO :meh:
Are you talking about using dry ice and then just hitting it with hammer on top of it? If that works well I would go that route. I thought people were using dry ice and a chisel at the same time. I had no problem getting it to come up in large chunks. If I did it again I would probably try the dry ice first but if you have to use the dry ice and a chisel I don't see the point.
 
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a chisel, rubber mallet and patience did the trick for me. then acetone to remove the adhesive left over. but the key was patience, probably took an 1.5 hours per section and i still haven't tackled the cargo area.
 
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thanks guys. my brother came over last night and we got all the tar mat removed in about 2 hours with dry ice, a rubber mallet, chisel, and screwdrivers!

We finally worked out a system of freezing the mat, waiting 1-2 min. hitting it hard w/ one of those mallets - hard plastic on one side, rubber on the other (from harbor freight). The hard side seemed to work well, better than w/ a regular metal hammer. he was able to get HUGE pieces to come up then just using his hand. It also left very little adhesive to remove. I finished up last night with what was left of the dry ice (started w/ 5 lbs) freezing little bits left over and tapping w/ the flat screwdriver.

Finished that and started laying down damplifier (after cleaning w/ windex) - got drivers footwell done, but a lot to do still! I will get a thread started for damplifier install.

thanks for the help!!

rob
 

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