TOYOTA, more than ever before... (2 Viewers)

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Got the side cover back on. Changed the fuel pump gaskets because I had new gaskets that came with the timing cover kit. Scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed. And wiped a lot of things off!

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I pulled the oil cooler. Scrubbed it and painted it. New gaskets and copper crush rings. I'm happy with it!

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I changed the EGR inlet gasket because it was leaking. The inlet housing and pipes were very clogged with exhaust soot. I didn't take pictures of that because it was a PITA and I forgot, but here's the old gasket. Gross.

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I started the timing cover gasket this afternoon. I ran into a pinch. Literally. The new aftermarket water pump is cast slightly larger closest to the timing cover. It pinched and bent the cover so after carefully pulling the cover off with excessive brute force I spent hours filing the water pump housing. Standing bent upside down. With tiny jewelrs files. It was like digging up dinosaurs. FOR HOURS. If you replace your pump make sure it doesn't do that. If it does file it down before you install it. Finally got it down to where I think it will fit. Cleaned up the gasket, pulled the seal and prepped the cover for paint.

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you might want to do the Galley plug while have the distributor and other pieces out of the way. Assuming it hasn't been done yet of course.
 
Busy weekend! Looking good
 
you might want to do the Galley plug while have the distributor and other pieces out of the way. Assuming it hasn't been done yet of course.
I dreaded that. I won the lottery however and it's already been done!
 
I've also removed the smog pump. I'll pull it apart tomorrow to assess its internal condition. Seems grim from what I would guess. There's been a lot of PS fluid leaking around there off and on for quite some time.

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I never passed smog in my rig either until I swapped out the air pump. Got a reman at O'Reilley's w lifetime warranty . Swapped it out every other year before smog test. As for the leaking PS fluid getting in the air pump and killing the fiber vanes that are in there, I'd recommend the Saginaw swap. I did that in my rig, and no more leaks + good steering. Saginaw pump is like $50 new and if you ever need one, the local parts store will have about 25 of them in stock. Georg (@orangefj45) here on Mud (of Valley Hybrids fame) sells the kit. He and I worked on the design of that kit, and my truck was a guinea pig. His kit is way better than the beta version I did, but you'll dig the outcome. You'll need a new high pressure PS hose to go from the Sag pump to the steering box but Georg can hook you up with one.
 
Be SUPER careful to fully seat the distributor before you start the engine. I was sure mine was seated, but with a mirror and flashlight, I determined that it was not. No oil pressure on startup is a bad thing!
 
I never passed smog in my rig either until I swapped out the air pump. Got a reman at O'Reilley's w lifetime warranty . Swapped it out every other year before smog test. As for the leaking PS fluid getting in the air pump and killing the fiber vanes that are in there, I'd recommend the Saginaw swap. I did that in my rig, and no more leaks + good steering. Saginaw pump is like $50 new and if you ever need one, the local parts store will have about 25 of them in stock. Georg (@orangefj45) here on Mud (of Valley Hybrids fame) sells the kit. He and I worked on the design of that kit, and my truck was a guinea pig. His kit is way better than the beta version I did, but you'll dig the outcome. You'll need a new high pressure PS hose to go from the Sag pump to the steering box but Georg can hook you up with one.
That's definitely been on my mind. Thanks for doing that work on the design! It's gonna make my life easier. I think, however, after pulling things apart that the PS leak was from busted lines rather than the pump itself. The whole steering system needs a freshen up.... another day... another dollar...
 
Be SUPER careful to fully seat the distributor before you start the engine. I was sure mine was seated, but with a mirror and flashlight, I determined that it was not. No oil pressure on startup is a bad thing!
Good call.
 
Good call.
That’s interesting @SteveH ... how could you think it’s seated but it wasn’t? If the bolt hole isn’t flush to the block housing then you know it’s not seated. Simple as that. If the distributor end isn’t seated in the oil slot it simply won’t be flush to the block. The bolt won’t even feed in if both aren’t snug together.
Or am I way off? I’ve had mine in and out a few times.
 
That’s interesting @SteveH ... how could you think it’s seated but it wasn’t? If the bolt hole isn’t flush to the block housing then you know it’s not seated. Simple as that. If the distributor end isn’t seated in the oil slot it simply won’t be flush to the block. The bolt won’t even feed in if both aren’t snug together.
Or am I way off? I’ve had mine in and out a few times.
The older style dizzy doesn't have that tab from what I understand. It's got a different locking mechanism. I've only seen diagrams in the FSM. From what I've read the older one can give the illusion that it's seated but needs a little extra push to get the gears to line up. If it's not in direct contact with the oil pump gears it can fail to pump oil causing major seizure problems and/or grenade the teeth and oil pump causing other catastrophes.
 
The older style dizzy doesn't have that tab from what I understand. It's got a different locking mechanism. I've only seen diagrams in the FSM. From what I've read the older one can give the illusion that it's seated but needs a little extra push to get the gears to line up. If it's not in direct contact with the oil pump gears it can fail to pump oil causing major seizure problems and/or grenade the teeth and oil pump causing other catastrophes.
Gotcha. Thanks, I had no idea!
 
That’s interesting @SteveH ... how could you think it’s seated but it wasn’t?

I put a modified FJ62 distributor in my '78 2F as part of my EFI conversion, and the distributor base is appears different from the old distributor - or so it seemed to me. It also slid down so far into the block that I said to myself 'wow - the oil pump shaft lined right up the first time I tried' - and I should have known better, because it never does.

Overall, this is just so important that everyone should triple-check it, even when they think they are done!
 
That’s interesting @SteveH ... how could you think it’s seated but it wasn’t?

I put a modified FJ62 distributor in my '78 2F as part of my EFI conversion, and the distributor base is appears different from the old distributor - or so it seemed to me. It also slid down so far into the block that I said to myself 'wow - the oil pump shaft lined right up the first time I tried' - and I should have known better, because it never does.

Overall, this is just so important that everyone should triple-check it, even when they think they are done!
Can you see the gears connecting with the oil pump with the pan removed?
 
Can you see the gears connecting with the oil pump with the pan removed?
Yes the gear of the diz can be seen connecting to the oil pump gear when the pan is off. Thought I had a photo but I can’t find one.
 
Sweet! I'm gonna pull the pan this week.
 
Sweet! I'm gonna pull the pan this week.
Nope! I’m wrong. I’m sorry. The gear I could see was just the distributor gear. The gears in the oil pump are concealed inside its housing. My apologies for speaking ahead of myself w/o verifying.

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Nope! I’m wrong. I’m sorry. The gear I could see was just the distributor gear. The gears in the oil pump are concealed inside its housing. My apologies for speaking ahead of myself w/o verifying.

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No worries! I should have been able to answer that with my FSM diagrams.
 

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