TOYOTA, more than ever before...

[cps432]

I've pulled the front apart. Finally! The crank pulley nut came off with ease using the bump start method. Pulled the balancer off with no problem. The rubber is dry and cracked. I also see the rivets beginning to bend and wear as is indicative of a 30+ year old part about to sheer off. I'm glad I stopped driving her when I did. I'm glad I've taken a few weeks to think, read, ask questions, and plan. Thank you to everyone here who's posted about these things in the past!

 

[cps432]

 

[cps432]

I've also removed the smog pump. I'll pull it apart tomorrow to assess its internal condition. Seems grim from what I would guess. There's been a lot of PS fluid leaking around there off and on for quite some time.

 

[FJACS]

What are you replacing it with? Dayco?

 

[cps432]

What are you replacing it with? Dayco?

The pump? Probably the one from napa. My local store has one in stock. I'm going to try to get my crank pulley rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Pulling the hb wasn’t as bad as it seemed eh? Your officially experienced now.

 

[Infinity00]

I knew the timing gear had the rubber damper that can fail but I didn’t know the same material is used in the HB. One more thing to research....thanks for the new knowledge.

 

[cps432]

Pulling the hb wasn’t as bad as it seemed eh? Your officially experienced now.

Yeah.. It's more difficult for me to get out of bed in the morning than it was to get that thing off of there.

I knew the timing gear had the rubber damper that can fail but I didn’t know the same material is used in the HB. One more thing to research....thanks for the new knowledge.

I'm pretty sure you can inspect it while it's on the truck. It's the back side of the pulley. Should be easy to keep an eye on it. I'll be calling Dale Manufacturing soon to talk to him about getting mine rebuilt. He's got some good info on his site if you care to read up on it. http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm

 

[cps432]

"Just pop the air injection manifold off and clean it out real quick" he said...
Well I didn't run into much trouble breaking the nuts loose. The back one by the firewall was a bit tricky, but easy enough after a "before noon beer"...
NOW! I have them all loose but can't get the rail to lift off the engine. I tried breaking the "bolts" that thread into the head and they all came loose enough to rotate by hand. I didn't back them out all the way, just enough to break the rust. My question is, should the rail come off separate from the "bolts that thread into the head"? I'm not sure if the rail fits inside of those bolts or if it's a standard coupling system like you seen on a typical vacuum pump where it should separate. Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[Infinity00]

They do separate, it’s similar to a compression fitting. But if you can’t separate them why not just rotate the piece out of the head, and remove it with the rail? Id blow a little compressed air around it first though, to clean any debris away from the head where it might fall in.

It looks like you did the hard part. When I took the nuts off, a couple of them twisted the small metal neck of the rail piece. More time with the PB blaster and it should come free. If you like to use a torch, that might help too, but I didn’t need any. Then again I twisted their little necks off.

 

[Infinity00]

Check out the pictures in the first post of my thread linked here and you’ll see it apart

Finally started my desmog. Updated with baseline vacuum routing drawings

 

[Infinity00]

Here ya go...

 

[cps432]

That helps a lot! Thank you! I abandoned the air rail for now. I didn't want to keep messing with it and round something off or bend the rail out of frustration. I went ahead and pulled my thermostat housing and water pump instead. The water pump didn't even have a gasket. Just RTV. I'll clean things up tomorrow and put that back together. Then I'll move on to the push rod cover, oil cooler, oil pan, and timing cover. I still need to order a new smog pump and a new exhaust check valve. That BETTER do it... oh yeah... crank pulley.

 

[cps432]

 

[SteveH]

Mag chloride is nasty but does it cause rust?

Yes - chloride ions (in any form) would much rather associate with the steel parts of your truck. If you want your FJ60 to last, park it indoors and don't drive it in the worst of the winter slop. All this depends on how often you want to re-repair various rusty spots. Even if you entomb various areas in grease, you will find rust returning here and there over time.

 

[cps432]

So, I'm working on getting my side cover removed to replace the gasket. The dizzy is giving me trouble. I've aligned the engine to top dead center and taken pictures and marked everything extensively. I cannot for the life of me get the dizzy out. It moves a little bit, maybe a few millimeters, but is getting hung on something. Am I missing something or should it just lift out?

 

[cps432]

Here are some dirty 2f pics for ya'll...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Whoa lookit you go. If you haven’t yet.... Just grab the distributor and give it more pull. The o-ring is prob hanging it up. When you reinstall that o-ring likes to make you think your pushing too hard.

 

[cps432]

Got it! Thanks! Yeah that o-ring was rock solid and flattened out. It was throwing oil all over the place for quite some time. She should be MUCH happier after I get it reinstalled. The cover came off without hassle. Some of the screws were loose enough that my ratchet didn't even engage...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Those little ones don’t take much force. Flatten your edges out w/ a block of wood if the holes appeared mushroomed.