Tow Rigs - Lets discuss

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I think I found my problem. When I left, my load looked like this...




...and a few hours later, it looked like this...

 
Couldn't help myself!
 
I will eventually strip most of that off.
 
The family decided we're taking the Tow Rig to Tennessee for Christmas the family of 4 + 2 Dogs, bikes, gifts and luggage it was the easy choice. I'm trying to avoid dragging the utility trailer. I got 57K on the Nitto Terra Grapplers and don't trust them for any driving outside of errands around town so I ordered a set of the Cooper AT3's from Discount Tire. I was between the General Grabber AT's and the Cooper's and the price point, free shipping and rebate pushed me to the Cooper's. I needed a E rated AT tire.

Also looking for a stock FJ Roofrack that was taken off for an upgraded one to mount on the roof of the MegaCab. Need something the mount the cargo carrier and have extra storage space. If anyone runs into one please shoot me the info I'd appreciate it.

Also ordered a set of replacement control arms upper and lower the bushings in the factory arms are shot and I have one of the lowers slightly bent.

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Volunteer said:
Made some progress following the meeting yesterday mocked up the rack, and got the drivers side controls arms in :cheers:

Control arm info?
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Went with the Pure Perfomance from 8 Lug Gear I also have their front adjustable panhard bar. The control arms with new tires made a big difference on my ride. One of my lower control arms were bent those factor arms were thin. If you do yours let me know I'll give you some tips to save you time and aggravation :) 8LUG/Pure Performance 03-UP Dodge Comfort Ride Control Arms
 
My CCV has already been rerounted for 4 years now so it doesn't drop oil into the turbo but I'm getting the overhead console alarm to take it to the dealer and I'm sure the CCV filter needs replacing again so instead of replacing I'm going to gut it and add a vent filter on the end of my hose that runs 6FT inside of the frame. Below is a video that I found of someone gutting the CCV. Also posted a comment from KRS below though I don't agree with his statement because I ran mine with a new CCV filter and the hose bypassing the turbo venting inside the frame for the last 4 years without issues.

KRS in the Cummins forum said: If you remove the hose that connects to the intake attached to the turbo you will cause excessive pressure on the crank case. The CCV requires the suction from the turbo to help pull the blow-by gases through the filter. If you disconnect that line you have to gut the CCV.

 
I guess I need to brush up on all of this quirky 6.7 stuff. Mine is still all stock. The previous owner took it to the stealership to have the EGR stuff fixed and $2500 later he was good to go. Sure wish he had asked me. You can delete it for $1000. It will be deleted by me at the first sign of a problem. It's only got 104k on a 2007 and was repaired at 70k.
 
Bodean said:
I guess I need to brush up on all of this quirky 6.7 stuff. Mine is still all stock. The previous owner took it to the stealership to have the EGR stuff fixed and $2500 later he was good to go. Sure wish he had asked me. You can delete it for $1000. It will be deleted by me at the first sign of a problem. It's only got 104k on a 2007 and was repaired at 70k.
Click to expand...

Nice that's just breaking in :cheers: I did the programmer, exhaust and delete when mine turned 100K. If you run into any questions when your ready to do it let me know I've been through most of it and helped a few friends along the way with theirs and will be happy to pass on what I know.
 
Update on the CCV it took 3hrs a few beers and some patience to gut it. Wix uses a much better glue to hold that filter than the one he had in the video but everything is right with the world now and that irritating alarm is gone :cheers:

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Next project on the Dodge post Water Mark Trail trip. The evap core has a slow leak, I'd rather change one on the 80 3 times compared to doing this Dodge once :mad:
 
not too bad of job...given heater cores in general.
 
Elbert said:
not too bad of job...given heater cores in general.
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No I just never understood Chrysler's logic in putting those long heating and cooling boxes behind the dash causing you to completely disassemble the dash. More chances for things to go wrong squeaks and rattles. When I was turning wrenches out of High School the Dodge Intrepids had some of the same gremlins and were a major pain removing the dashes in them. My Toyota pickups and 80 were a breeze in comparison all you really needed to do was take out the glove compartment area.
 
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