Totally Bolt-on Saginaw Power Steering (1 Viewer)

[B y r o n]

Well the vast majority of those who convert to Saginaw power steering weld the mounting plate to the left frame rail. I just happen to be one of those who like to be able to revert back to stock or remove what I add simply by un-bolting it. So my challenge was to come up with a way to mount the Saginaw power steering box without welding.

I used a piece of 3/8" thick plate for the mount. Coming up with the position was a little tricky. Here is what I came up with (see attachment for larger image).

There are 1" diameter spacers between the inner and outer rails that are threaded 7/16-14. All screws/bolts are grade 8 hardware. The spacers between the plate and gear box were cut from DOM tubing 1" outer and .250" wall. It uses the 2 counter sunk Allen head to hold the plate to the inner frame rail. The bottom 2 gear box mounting bolts go through the inner and outer frame rails and spacers between the rails.

The 2 middle bolts are 12 point grade 8. So the spacers are bolted to the outer rail with these and the counter sunk flat heads mount the plate and finish the solid link between everything. The 2 bottom 6 point bolts pass through everything and mount the gear box. This mounts the plate to the frame with 4 7/16-14 bolts.

The holes cut through the frame cross member were lined up the the input shaft of the gear box. 3" through the front and 2" to clear the joint for the rear. The top of the member was clearances for the hose bosses.

The top 2 bolts only go through the plate to mount the gear box. If you look closely at the second photo you will also see that the pitman arm is parallel with the frame rail. The power steering hoses clear the bottom edge of the front cowl so no rubbing.

All washers are hardened, thin and thick. Because the box is a 4 1/4 turn and I wanted to keep the box as close as possible to the left frame rail I had to grind a recess for the front of the gear box and put a thin washer between the gear box and 3/4" length spacers.

Borgeson supplied upper and lower joints, collapse-able shaft, pitman arm and power steering hoses. VBX supplied the column bearing support. I also added a power steering filter and cooler.

Steering should no longer be an issue.

I almost forgot. Even though the gear box was a new re-manufactured unit from Napa it began to rust after being rained on a couple of times. I pulled it and the mounting plate, which hadn't been painted yet, and cleaned off all paint and rust before coating with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer followed by semi gloss black paint. The shaft and joints were shot in Hammered Gray after the Rust Reformer.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

My two comments are:

The cuts to the crossmember weaken it, any plans to reinforce it?

Are you making more to sell?

 

[Downey]

Truthfully, I'm not thrilled: (a) your power steering gear box wants to twist the end of that frame rail off of the frame, an I don't think I'd want to trust the heads of those two grade 8 bolts. You didn't make the P.S. mounting plate a part of the frame where it actually makes the frame stronger. (b) You've cut away a large portion of the front crossmember, without putting some other form of strength (gusset) back???

 

[bikersmurf]

X2 I'd have to agree with Jim here... You've cut 1/2 way through the front cross member, and not reinforced it.

I like the concept of being able to undo changes, but it'll likely never happen. You're running a SBC, have removed all the stock steering, have cut off the end of the steering shaft, and have cut through the frame cross member... Reinforce the front cross member, weld on the plate, box in the other front frame rail, and leave the grade 8 hardware to reinforce. I welds can be cut and metal can be ground.

If you wan't a reversible bolt on P/S conversion, 1) stock or Minitruck, 2) Scout II (Saginaw Box), 3) 60/70/80 series Landcruiser... All avoid cutting big holes in the frame, could be bolt on with some scab plates... But I'll still weld some extra steel onto the frame.

 

[lcwizard]

Your work is very clean. Are you thinking of selling the parts? If you do , you'll need a couple versions. A lot of people run shackle reversals which allow the box to be mounted lower so no need to cut up the bumper plates

 

[Fast Eddy]

It seems ok, but you drilled and cut the frame anyway. A welded-on plate could be cut off and the frame cleaned up with a grinder such that it would be able to hard to tell.

My Saginaw is mounted such that it's below the stock bumper triangle gusset. Lower is better since it keeps the drag link more parallel to the tie rod, limiting bump steer. This can be helped by using a drop pitman arm too.

 

[B y r o n]

My two comments are:

The cuts to the crossmember weaken it, any plans to reinforce it?

Are you making more to sell?

I only made this for me, no interest in doing any sort of mass production. I am willing to provide the information I have to any who may want it.

Truthfully, I'm not thrilled: (a) your power steering gear box wants to twist the end of that frame rail off of the frame, an I don't think I'd want to trust the heads of those two grade 8 bolts. You didn't make the P.S. mounting plate a part of the frame where it actually makes the frame stronger. (b) You've cut away a large portion of the front crossmember, without putting some other form of strength (gusset) back???

Jim, one of the things you are missing is that it is not just 2 grade 8 bolts holding the plate. It's also the 2 grade 8 bolts that are the lower 2 mounting bolts of the gear box for a total of 4 grade 8 bolts. The structure of the left frame rail was not compromised but just the opposite because the inside spacers, 4 in total, actually join the inner and outer rails. If your are worried about twisting the end of the frame rail what wasn't apparent in the pictures is the structure I built in when I mounted my winch.

Those are 1/4" angle plates welded to the 1/4" winch mount plate and then bolted solidly to the frame gussets as well as the factory bumper which also ties together both frame rails and should prevent any twisting.

X2 I'd have to agree with Jim here... You've cut 1/2 way through the front cross member, and not reinforced it.

I like the concept of being able to undo changes, but it'll likely never happen. You're running a SBC, have removed all the stock steering, have cut off the end of the steering shaft, and have cut through the frame cross member... Reinforce the front cross member, weld on the plate, box in the other front frame rail, and leave the grade 8 hardware to reinforce. I welds can be cut and metal can be ground.

If you wan't a reversible bolt on P/S conversion, 1) stock or Minitruck, 2) Scout II (Saginaw Box), 3) 60/70/80 series Landcruiser... All avoid cutting big holes in the frame, could be bolt on with some scab plates... But I'll still weld some extra steel onto the frame.

The SBC was added by me back in the 80's and is also a bolt in conversion. Factory mounts were simply removed and then new mounts fabricated and bolted to the frame. The radiator was not relocated. With the extra structure I added while mounting the winch I believe it relieved some of the load off the front cross member. It's more of spacer between the frame rails now and the top and bottom structure of the cross member should be able to still handle that task.

With regard to the modifications I've made, if I or a new owner (very unlikely since I've already owned this for 38 years) wanted to put it back to original all they would have to do is re-attach the factory mounts and replace the steering shaft.


I realize that this may not be everyone cut of tea but it was the best solution for what I wanted.

 

[B y r o n]

Your work is very clean. Are you thinking of selling the parts? If you do , you'll need a couple versions. A lot of people run shackle reversals which allow the box to be mounted lower so no need to cut up the bumper plates

View attachment 889484 View attachment 889485

I try and keep things as clean as I can so thanks. This was just for me and no plans for a shackle reversal. Except for the holes drilled into the frame, the steering shaft and bumper plate gusset are easily replaceable. I mounted the box up high like I did because it put the pitman arm in almost the same location/position as the factory relay arm. Hopefully high enough to stay out of harms way when crawling over rocks.

It seems ok, but you drilled and cut the frame anyway. A welded-on plate could be cut off and the frame cleaned up with a grinder such that it would be able to hard to tell.

My Saginaw is mounted such that it's below the stock bumper triangle gusset. Lower is better since it keeps the drag link more parallel to the tie rod, limiting bump steer. This can be helped by using a drop pitman arm too.

Many of the weld on jobs I've seen involved removing the inner frame wall, then the plate is welded on. When the welds are less than optimum they brake loose or fracture. When flexed or subjected to twisting some fail, but some don't. Since I'm not a professional welder, and like to do things myself I chose the safer for me bolt on route. The U-shaped inner wall was left in place without compromising it or the strength it provides.


I've not ruled out some form of cross member reinforcement, I just haven't convinced myself that it will be necessary and how I want to accomplish it if I do determine it is necessary.

Instead of trying to re-create the left frame rail after removing a welded on mount it will be easier to weld in a 3" and 2" disc into the cross member. Not that it will happen while I'm still alive.

 

[lcwizard]

Rough crowd here but when it comes to power steering conversions it's always that way. The idea is worth trying. I'd like to see a long term test on this. I'll admit I also have my doubts about not fixing the plate to the frame with a more secure ( welding ) method. Reinforcing the cut out will help but in your favor your cutout is nicely done with clean radii which minimizes stress risers and fracture start points. Using a heavy front bumper will help support radiator core support that was cut. Follow up with us on this.

 

[bikersmurf]

I also tend to shy away from welding to the frame, and I do like the clean look of your conversion. With the extra reinforcement of your winch mount, it certainly would help stabilize the front end of the frame rail... It also looks like you're running moderate sized tires so it won't see the same punishment some of the other 40s out there see.

I'd still tend to want to beef up that crossmember with some extra metal... And something that often seems to be forgotten is that the stock frame is riveted together which allows more movement than being welded... Being bolted together seems more inline with that philosophy. Rather than being rivited together for 90% of it and then being welded at the end with no movement. Different philosophies, it'd also be interested to see how it works out. I know my own conversion most likely won't involve the same amount of welded on scab plates that I've seen with many Scout II conversions, and will rely more on bolts and crush tunes as you've done, with the addition of a sturdy scab plate welded to the inner frame rail.

 

[B y r o n]

Another member asked for a side shot so here it is.

Here is a shot from underneath.

 

[B y r o n]

Well I thought I'd update everyone on my results so far. When I fired things up last week I was getting strange sounds from the PS pump. My brother who is a mechanic thought it was just air bleeding from the system. After two days of driving it about those noises disappeared totally so air was probably the cause as I did have to add small amounts of fluid over the two days between drives.

I can't believe how easy the steering is. I found myself over compensating when doing tight turns as I was so used to the mechanical steering. I haven't had it to an alignment shop yet so it just has the 1/8" toe in I set it to. It drives down the road straight and true, city or highway. After my visit to the alignment shop I may need to adjust the steering wheel alignment as the turn signal has interference when making right turns, left has no interference. My guess is that the adapter may be one tooth off.

Like everyone else, I wonder why I waited so long.

 

[shelfboy1]

those work well for normal use but a friend of mine years ago ripped the whole side of the frame out trying to pull out another fj40 that was over the tires in mud, one of those freak accidents that you dont expect .

 

[roma042987]

great job! I love the winch mount. I actually attempted to make one just like that until someone gave me an extra winch plate they had laying around which I ended up modifying for my truck

 

[Downey]

I like your rig, I like your craftsmanship, just keep an eye on those gear box mounting bolts!!!!!