Torque tube suggestions

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RufusTheDufus

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I cut the torque tube out of my HJ45 Troopy to make room for the H55+Toybox+Splitcase. Now the Troopy leans in the back. I have the drivetrain out of the truck at the moment so I'd like to correct the lean if possible. (I realize it might not be possible.)

For the past 8 weeks I've had the Troopy resting on jack stands. They are supporting the frame level. The tires are off, axles dangling/unloaded. It's about the best I can do to setup the frame to prep for a torque tube solution. I don't have room to replace the round torque in the stock location so I'm looking for suggestions to mimic the functionality.

Do I just make a new tube and weld it in place further back on the frame? Do I use some 1" x 3" square tubing and make an upside down "U" where the stock torque tube was?

I assume other folks have run into this before and have already figured out good ways to deal with it. I have searched but didn't find much. (only this topic)
 
RufusTheDufus said:
For the past 8 weeks I've had the Troopy resting on jack stands. They are supporting the frame level. The tires are off, axles dangling/unloaded.
Click to expand...

IMO, leaning is usually due to frame twist. You could try raising the jack stand on the corner that sags and see if you can bend it back. New springs could help too.

I was not aware that a troopy had a torque tube as an original feature. Got any pics or links? I don't see how removing it would lead to cruiser lean.
 
It's not leaning sitting on the jack stands. The frame is straight and level and the body is sitting plumb on the frame.

You can see a photo of the stock torque tube in this post and some photos of it removed in this post. I installed an IPOR skid plate thinking it would help prevent frame twisting and keep the two frame rails lined up.

BTW, I installed a new OME heavy suspension on it before putting it on the road. It's got about 30k mostly highway miles on it. I did check the rear springs for obvious cracks too. The bushings are in good shape and lubed so they shouldn't be binding. Maybe I do have a bad spring already. Hard to know for sure. So I'm assuming the frame is out of whack now due to the missing torque tube.
 
I am with Fast Eddy on A not equalling B. That said, I regularly deal with relocating the torque tube on the 40 series by welding a flange to both ends of the tube after it has been cut as flush to the frame as possible, then welding two companion flanges further back in the framerails where I intend to remount the torque tube. Four bolts, 7/16ths fine pitch [think seat belt bolts] are sufficient for each side of the bolt in torque tube.

Best

Mark A.
 
I have also seen the torque tube rotated back and re-welded in the factory location, using appropriately sized pieces of pipe or tube to line it up with the frame holes.
 
65swb45 said:
I am with Fast Eddy on A not equalling B. That said, I regularly deal with relocating the torque tube on the 40 series by welding a flange to both ends of the tube after it has been cut as flush to the frame as possible, then welding two companion flanges further back in the framerails where I intend to remount the torque tube. Four bolts, 7/16ths fine pitch [think seat belt bolts] are sufficient for each side of the bolt in torque tube.

Best

Mark A.
Click to expand...

What he said.

Ease of removal for various repairs/mods, etc. makes this very worthwhile.
 
I would suggest... re-creating a torque tube more like the origanal.. for it to work, it would have to control the WHOLE frame not just that center structure. meaning it would have to be welded to, not only the center structure, but also the frame on the outside. as if you drilled a hole through both sections and weled on the inside and the outside. bolting it only to the inside will only lead to the frame cracking... ask me how I know.
 
DaveWest5150 said:
I would suggest... re-creating a torque tube more like the origanal.. for it to work, it would have to control the WHOLE frame not just that center structure. meaning it would have to be welded to, not only the center structure, but also the frame on the outside. as if you drilled a hole through both sections and weled on the inside and the outside. bolting it only to the inside will only lead to the frame cracking... ask me how I know.
Click to expand...



Precisely the advantage of rotating the tube.
 
1973barnfind said:
What is a torque tube? i'm kind of lost.... is it the frame brace over the driveshaft?
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No wonder I didn't know what the OP was talking about. I was thinking about a torque tube. I don't think that's the correct verbiage for this tubular cross member.

A torque tube is to a drive shaft as a differential housing is to an axle shaft, #4505, top left. It doesn't spin if that's not obvious:

plate109.gif


Here's a C5 Corvette drive train with a torque tube (tranny in the back by the diff):

C5Drivetrain.jpg
 
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