Torque for downpipe nuts?

[mattcheston]

Anybody know the specified torque for the nuts/studs that hold the downpipe to the bottom of the 2F manifold?

Can't seem to find it anywhere in the engine or chassis/body fsm.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

3/8 snap-on IM31

Med. Setting

or


FSM main manifold's spec's

 

[OSS]

The back of the 2F engine FSM has torque specs for all sizes and types of fasteners. The nut is a flanged 10mm. Look it up!

 

[mattcheston]

The back of the 2F engine FSM has torque specs for all sizes and types of fasteners. The nut is a flanged 10mm. Look it up!

I see the "Specified Torque for Standard Bolts" section with various bolt grades, etc., but I couldn't find anything that seems to apply to a 10mm flanged nut.

Could be that I'm misreading something?

The standard torques table also comes with the following disclaimer that I'm guessing would apply to exhaust bolts/nuts:

 

[OSS]

It's not a mission critical fastner. Just tighten it up snug. There's lots of bolts & nuts on the cruiser that either don't have torque specs called out (because it's not imperative) or you can't get a torque wrench in there anyway.
It's a 10mm nut. 8mm bolts max out at about 12 ft-lbs. I think more bolts are broken using torque wrenches (set incorrectly) than just using common sense.

 

[emac]

I would suggest antisieze and good and snug using a 3/8 ratchet.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Anybody know the specified torque for the nuts/studs that hold the downpipe to the bottom of the 2F manifold?

Can't seem to find it anywhere in the engine or chassis/body fsm.

If i was unsure , This might be the logic i would consider & the route i would go . 36 ft-lb / 3.9 - 5.1 kg-m

 

[DFXR]

I just stuffed my new/old manifold in and onto the 2F this afternoon. Did you hang it on the two studs and use bolts everywhere else?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

It's not a mission critical fastner. Just tighten it up snug. There's lots of bolts & nuts on the cruiser that either don't have torque specs called out (because it's not imperative) or you can't get a torque wrench in there anyway.
It's a 10mm nut. 8mm bolts max out at about 12 ft-lbs. I think more bolts are broken using torque wrenches (set incorrectly) than just using common sense.

I'm a torque Nazi - and yet I just gave these (on my 3FE) a couple "ugga-duggas"* with the impact. (* Paraphrasing Eric O. from South Main Auto.)

 

[John McVicker]

I just stuffed my new/old manifold in and onto the 2F this afternoon. Did you hang it on the two studs and use bolts everywhere else?

Yep.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

3/8 snap-on IM31

Med. Setting

or


FSM main manifold's spec's

 

[mattcheston]

I just stuffed my new/old manifold in and onto the 2F this afternoon. Did you hang it on the two studs and use bolts everywhere else?

Yep. Two studs/washers/nuts top center. Four big bolts/washers, and the two smaller bolts/washers on the very outer edges (the ears for cylinder 1/6 exhaust).

Thanks for the input everyone. I had seen the specified torque for the head > manifold bolts on the engine FSM page posted earlier, but didn't see a spec for the downpipe and it made me a bit nervous.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Did U get it done yet ?

 

[mattcheston]

Did U get it done yet ?

Unfortunately not ha. My truck is an hour away from me until it's running again. I'm just accumulating info on remaining tasks that need to be completed when I get back to it.

Hopefully this afternoon. Tighten down some fasteners, reinstall the battery, set belt tensions, add coolant, set timing, vacuum hoses, and then I should be rolling again.

 

[Spike Strip]

Those are special nuts, they're kind of mushroomed in so they act as a lock nut. I forget what they're called. Get the Toyota ones and use a lot of anti-sleeze. Just snug, not over-tight.

 

[John McVicker]

Those are special nuts, they're kind of mushroomed in so they act as a lock nut. I forget what they're called. Get the Toyota ones and use a lot of anti-sleeze. Just snug, not over-tight.

This is good info...do use the Toyota OEM nuts.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Those are special nuts, they're kind of mushroomed in so they act as a lock nut. I forget what they're called. Get the Toyota ones and use a lot of anti-sleeze. Just snug, not over-tight.

This is good info...do use the Toyota OEM nuts.

- this is The Exhaust Self Locking Flange Nut i use 99.9% of the time

- 90080-17187

- Take Note They are MADE IN JAPAN

- They are a White Zinc " Bright Bristling " Finish , That will tarnish due to exhaust heat over a period of time

- its a 14mm wrench / tool hex size

- its My standard and has never let me down over many years / many Jobs on both late model toyota vehicles & Land Cruisers

- Long term A+

 

[DonRaniro]

- this is The Exhaust Self Locking Flange Nut i use 99.9% of the time

- 90080-17187

- Take Note They are MADE IN JAPAN

- They are a White Zinc " Bright Bristling " Finish , That will tarnish due to exhaust heat over a period of time

- its a 14mm wrench / tool hex size

- its My standard and has never let me down over many years / many Jobs on both late model toyota vehicles & Land Cruisers

- Long term A+


View attachment 1752752 View attachment 1752753

@ToyotaMatt trying to find the OEM stud part number. My dumb a** switched out two of the studs with after market ones that came with brass nuts. Noticed one was missing and the other about to fall out as well. Bought the OEM nuts, but now they won’t completely tighten due to non OEM studs.