Wired up turns and park to column wired rear turn and brake. Not dot legal but much easier to test when theyre sitting in the pass seat. Right turn is slow to flash but not everything is hooked up yet. Left turn flashes ok. Had to remember it needed a load/draw to flash. That would have saved me an hour or so. Next will be to wire brake switch in and connect it to computer. Special thanks to buddy Colin for the hand me down rear turns.
The yellow wire coming out the old ignition hole is the charge indicator light for the alt. Will hook that to the old.left turn signal location in the dash. Then i can move to the center section or wiring and redo the rear harness which has been hacked by someone. Plan to add reverse lights and run a common ground for tails etc. Cant have enough good grounds.
Working on taillights replugged them with weather pack connections added another ground. Working on harness to them now. Thanks to Colin was reminded to wire trailer lights. Doh. Its a slow process. I think ill order a spool of white with black stripe for safety sake. Want to keep toyota oem colors in harness.
Jamie its a looong slow process with lots of time staring at wiring diagrams. A butane soldering iron and shrink tube. Ill enclose the harness when i get it all test wired. Not much beer when working on wires.
Check engine light and 4wd indicator lights both work properly and talk to computer. Added the batt indicator to the spot where im putting the alternator dummy light so it functions just like the fj62 dash. I did dork my 4wd symbol out of the wagon. So for now it will be stock 1964 Indicator instead.
Well.. I have been Befuddled for a while.. Trying to figure out how to wire the Alternator charge indicator light. Most will just bypass the indicator light but I have the extra spot on the dash, want to try and utilize everything that was stock in 64 and 1988.. I did numerous searches here on mud. Some sort of explained what I was looking for, most said it's not needed to hook up the alternator.. While i know it is not needed to hook up the alternator it's something i wanted to hook up. SO.. Long story short I found this PDF which might help others diagnose their alternators. It's a toyota training manual..
And now i know to hook the power side of the charge indicator light to the ignition hot wire "IG" that tells the alternator to charge and ground the charge indicator light to the "L".
WHOO HOO for me.. This means that the Drivers side of the whole harness will be complete and I can start looming it.
THought i'd share a bit of info I have never seen before and answered my question.
Toyota Alternator wiring and diagnosis OEM Lit.pdf
do you have a picture of how you wired the back side of the guages? I am trying to figure out why my fuel guage keeps zeroing out when the cluster body is grounded. works great if i hold the cluster in my hand.
Fuel second from left. I didnt use the voltage regulator in the fuel gauge with new temp gauge. I have not tested fuel sender yet.
Did you isolate the fuel gauge from the metal? I had to add a couple small platic washers to space the terminals away from the metal. and i ran a seperate ground from gauge panel to truck thru the harness. For safety sake.
H55 went to a local cruiserhead that also runs a shop and builds trannys. He was making a housecall delivering wheels and a gas tank to another cruiserhead that was getting parts out of my garage. H55 WILL be getting new input and tailshaft installed. Once its back i can put the 62 splitcase behind it and hook up the vacuum 4wd like stock 1964. And finally instal clutch and hydraulics.
"good time to heat and bend that shifting fork for full engagement, this helps prevent the notorious 5th gear pop-out later in life. disengage 5th, look at how much space is between the gear and the collar. now engage 5th and take a look at how much gear over lap has occured. you want to make sure the 5th overlaps completely since both the collar and the gear have tapered teeth and if they do not engage fully then eventually the tapped ends wear and 5th starts to pop out when the load is taken off the drivetrain. usually a heat and bend of 1/8 to 1/4 inch is sufficient."
"There is one change in H55's in I believe 1985. The early models have an open input bearing (behind the "figure 8" bearing retainer). The later models use an orange OEM style bearing or black aftermarket (front 1/2 facing "figure 8" is sealed). Split case H41's USE THE SAME INPUT. H42's do not match (I had the tooth count commited to memory in a past life)."
So.. after consultation with riverrat who has my h55 i am in need of a seal bearing input shaft for an h55. which should be 86 and newer. anyone have a dead h55 or an input from swapping to a diesel? if so please let me know..
Since a clubmember is getting married today i thought id start out my day working on the 45. Pulled the steering column to prepare for the new ujoint. I did splurge and purchased the borgeson with the vibration dampner in it. Why not with mt's going on it.