TorFab: FJ62 LED Headlight Kit and Install (1 Viewer)

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NookShneer

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In the quest for better lighting for our customers we went about sorting out a kit that is easy to install, has quality lights and a good DOT light pattern all while not breaking the bank.


The problem:

Poor light output and beam pattern from the factory sealed beams is pathetic at best. We tested the max possible light output by running 14-gauge wire harness direct to the battery terminals. A new SYLVANIA H4651 Basic Sealed Beam and the truck idling (higher voltage running) were added to the mix in order to product the max light output. This is with the high beam on.

1664831022063.png


Tor started out by ordering up a bunch of different lights from oversea manufactures and started putting them to the test and inspecting the quality of the light construction and beam pattern and light output. After testing numerous sets, he landed on one that checked all the boxes.


- Great output with clean cut off and great beam pattern

- Quality construction

- Reasonable price



The solution:

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We have a detailed install video here:






They are available now on the site:

 
Install Instructions:

Remove turn indicator assembly.

1.jpg


Remove headlight bezel/trim.

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Remove the headlight surround. These are tiny screws that often are difficult to get out. You will want to pre lubricate them with your choice of parts penetrant oil (WD-40 or the like). For screws that have stripped or are likely to strip using a micro torch to heat the bolt up can help to free them.

Disconnect old light. Remove a fender body bolt (in a few photos we have a good picture of which one)

3.jpg


With the longer bolt provided you are going to mount the ground switching relay to the body. ** You will need to make sure that the ground wire is sandwiched between the head of the bolt and plastic body of the ground switching relay.

4.PNG


Bolt in your ground switch. You will want to consider the length of wire on the ground switching relay before cranking it down. Take a look at the length with the male plug ends this will need to reach and plug into the existing headlight harness. Make sure you finalize this before you tighten everything down.

IMG_2655.PNG
 
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Once you have everything connected tighten down your ground switch. Make sure that your ground wire is still under the head of the bolt.


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Example of one possible mounting option. Your ground switch connectors will look like this.

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Replace your trim.

IMG_2658.jpg


Inner light / High beam is easier. No ground switch to deal with. Remove the old light and replace with new. Hardest part will loosening the tiny headlight retainer screws (pre lubricating with your favorite penetrating oil of choice is a good idea.)

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Re-install trim rings.





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Re-install headlight bezel / trim surround.
 
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Secure headlight bezel / trim surround.


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Re-install turn signal / indicator

IMG_2662.jpg


If you have added LED high beams to your truck you will need to "simulate" the electrical demand for the high beam indicator to work on the dash.

This can be done by adding a 50w 6ohm load resistor to your high beam harness. Like this one Click Here


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The two "outside" terminals are the ones that will need to be connected to with the load resistor. Follow these wires back to the inside of the fender and you can connect them inside the fender. *** You will need to be careful where you mount the load resistor. It will het hot and could potentially damage plastic or rubber. It should be mounted to a metal surface where it can not damage anything.


IMG_2667.PNG


Be sure to mount it so that it doesn't have the possibility to melt your harness.
 
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Are these significantly brighter then the H4 low beams and the H1 high beams? I also have the ARB headlight harness upgrade for low and high beams. Curious if these are significantly better?
 
Are these significantly brighter then the H4 low beams and the H1 high beams? I also have the ARB headlight harness upgrade for low and high beams. Curious if these are significantly better?



Here is a look at the output and light pattern as they switch back and forth between low and high. Since LED's are effected less by voltage they don't require the additional cost of upgrading wiring harnesses. It would be hard to say.

It would depend on what housings, wiring harness, watt bulbs you are running & voltage you are putting out (idle or driving)

That is really the beauty of the LED kit as it isn't effected by any of those factors.
 

Here is a look at the output and light pattern as they switch back and forth between low and high. Since LED's are effected less by voltage they don't require the additional cost of upgrading wiring harnesses. It would be hard to say.

It would depend on what housings, wiring harness, watt bulbs you are running & voltage you are putting out (idle or driving)

That is really the beauty of the LED kit as it isn't effected by any of those factors.
These are absolutely a huge upgrade from stock no doubt about that. Not sure about my rig so maybe next time my rig is in at Torfab we can compare the LED to what I have upgraded. If its significant I will upgrade to this package.
 
These are absolutely a huge upgrade from stock no doubt about that. Not sure about my rig so maybe next time my rig is in at Torfab we can compare the LED to what I have upgraded. If its significant I will upgrade to this package.

I now have it on my list to try and get a data point on a truck with an upgraded headlight set-up as a comparison.
 

Here is a look at the output and light pattern as they switch back and forth between low and high. Since LED's are effected less by voltage they don't require the additional cost of upgrading wiring harnesses. It would be hard to say.

It would depend on what housings, wiring harness, watt bulbs you are running & voltage you are putting out (idle or driving)

That is really the beauty of the LED kit as it isn't effected by any of those factors.
I might have missed it but is the lens glass or plastic? Can you give an idea as to a single housing replacement cost, should it get damaged? What about long term availability? Looks like a great kit, has my attention.
 
I might have missed it but is the lens glass or plastic? Can you give an idea as to a single housing replacement cost, should it get damaged? What about long term availability? Looks like a great kit, has my attention.

Thanks. We are excited to be getting these out to more than just our local customer base. Everyone can benefit from better lighting when driving.

These have Poly Carbonate Lenses.

We have 4 years of installing these in the shop on customer trucks and not having a failure due to the lens/housing. We would be able to sell a pair of light housings separately of the rest of the kit if needed to someone.
 
This is probably a dumb question but do all 4 lights stay on when the hi beams are activated
 
This is probably a dumb question but do all 4 lights stay on when the hi beams are activated

The kit we have developed only uses them in the stock form. That is a function that can be done but it requires additional wiring not provided by this kit.
 
These look great. Do you have any thoughts on how they’ll do with ice/freezing temps and moisture buildup?

I’ve seen folks discussing heated vs non heated led headlights, but I don’t have any experience with LED’s in inclement weather to base any opinions on.

Curious what you think about the topic.
 
We haven't had issues or feedback from customers with them icing up. That said, we are in cool and wet environment in Seattle and don't see the freezing temps that others have. If you are in colder temps a dedicated set with heated lenses would be the way to go.

At the shop testing in 60 deg temp shows that they heat up 10 deg surface temp. I'm not confident that it would be enough in colder temps.


Surface Temp Lights OFF
IMG_2698.jpg

Surface Temp Lights ON outside for 40 mins.
IMG_2697.jpg
 
Cool. Thank you for the thorough reply. Much appreciated.

We haven't had issues or feedback from customers with them icing up. That said, we are in cool and wet environment in Seattle and don't see the freezing temps that others have. If you are in colder temps a dedicated set with heated lenses would be the way to go.

At the shop testing in 60 deg temp shows that they heat up 10 deg surface temp. I'm not confident that it would be enough in colder temps.
 
The kit we have developed only uses them in the stock form. That is a function that can be done but it requires additional wiring not provided by this kit.
If purchased can you supply the extra wiring kit for this to be done?
 
In the quest for better lighting for our customers we went about sorting out a kit that is easy to install, has quality lights and a good DOT light pattern all while not breaking the bank.


The problem:

Poor light output and beam pattern from the factory sealed beams is pathetic at best. We tested the max possible light output by running 14-gauge wire harness direct to the battery terminals. A new SYLVANIA H4651 Basic Sealed Beam and the truck idling (higher voltage running) were added to the mix in order to product the max light output. This is with the high beam on.

View attachment 3130833

Tor started out by ordering up a bunch of different lights from oversea manufactures and started putting them to the test and inspecting the quality of the light construction and beam pattern and light output. After testing numerous sets, he landed on one that checked all the boxes.


- Great output with clean cut off and great beam pattern

- Quality construction

- Reasonable price



The solution:

View attachment 3130836

View attachment 3130837


We have a detailed install video here:






They are available now on the site:


What is the lux rating for the low beam and the high beam?
 

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