Too much at once

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Hello everyone. I have been using this site for years for help with my cruisers and it has helped me immensly...TY.

I finally registered today because my 76 has left me scratching my head. Four years ago I started this project and I took everything apart, oh yeah I might as well do this....and this....and this. After repacing the wiring harness with a painless kit (BTW anything but painless) and probably just about everything else electrical I finally got it running. Now I can get it to idle fine but when I hit the gas it bogs right down, nearly stalling and then comes back to idle. The PO installed a holley two barrel and it ran fine before I converted the dist to a DUI set up. I think maybe its an advance problem because i have tried every degree of rotation for timing. Ive got plenty of vaccuum pressure from the carb and the centrif. advance seems to work....when I apply vaccuum to the dist the linkage moves but it dosnt seem to have an effect on the rotor. Should it? Im lost here any input would be helpful.
 

FJ40Jim

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Now I can get it to idle fine but when I hit the gas it bogs right down, nearly stalling and then comes back to idle.
The accelerator pump is not working right.

I think maybe its an advance problem because i have tried every degree of rotation for timing. Ive got plenty of vaccuum pressure from the carb and the centrif. advance seems to work....when I apply vaccuum to the dist the linkage moves but it dosnt seem to have an effect on the rotor. Should it? Im lost here any input would be helpful.
It's not an advance problem.

The vac advance should move the breaker plate when vac is applied. It does not move the rotor.
 
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That was quick. Thanks Jim.
Sorry for the ignorance but is the accel pump you mentioned part of the carb or are you talking about the mech fuel pump on the engine?
I ordered a new fuel pump yesterday thinking that maybe I didnt have enough fuel pressure.
 
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Still not running right

:bang: Well..I bought the holley book, cleaned and rebuilt the carb with factory parts and reinstalled it on the engine with all new gaskets...and I still have the same problem although the idle sounds smoother. When I hit the gas the carb shoots fuel into the intake and the engine revs but then bogs out. If I immediately remove my foot from the pedal it returns to idle, if I dont it stalls.

The mechanic at work said it may be a dist. grounding problem so I ran a seperate ground to it....NG.
I called performance dist. for answers. their response: "that sounds strange..I dunno, sounds like a fuel problem"

The mechanical fuel pump is putting out lots of fuel and the timed vac port on the carb is pulling 0-18 in when it revs up. Ive got 14.5V at the dist "batt" wire so I dont know what to do now. Is there anything internal that might be causing this, ie., stuck valves? The 2F ran great before I started my resto. and decided to go DUI. Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
Jeff
 

FJ40Jim

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Mechanical (internal) problems are usually worst at idle.
The engine starts up and idles fine, so it doesn't sound like internal or ignition problems.

It still sounds like a fuel problem.

Dunno what to suggest beyond that.
 
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Thanks...Ill check the float level today.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that the adapter plate and carb base plate get super cold when the engine is running. So cold that condensation forms on them. Is this normal? Maybe the engine is getting too much fuel.

Ive read lots of posts on holley carbs and none of them were good...I think im probably going to end up throwing down six bills for an aisin (im not a mechanic, Im a part replacer). Is it worth it?
 
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get you a factory carb from the parts for sale section and trash that holly
I have the same problem on one of my trucks.
except on rev, it backfires
 
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New Jersey
ttt

I tried everything...

New fuel pump....ng
float level..........ok

I pulled the plugs and they look dry but with a lot of carbon. I bought a new weber 38 today because i gotta get it running. Anybody else have any advice for me before I open the new carb?
 
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Try applying accelrator slowly until it stumbles and note the symptoms.

My 74' and Holley carb combo did the same and used to stumble because it was running WAY too rich when I stomped the accelerator down. If I applied it gradually instead of stomping it, I could get to full rpm's. Never got it fixed, just replaced the carb with a used weber for cheap.
 

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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I think that's the answer. I've never heard of anyone with a Holley on a Land Cruiser being happy about it. Not saying it can't be done, just saying it's likely the source of your problem.

Get an OEM carb, and have it rebuilt by TLC Performance (that's FJ40Jim). The 76 carb has larger venturis or something and so would be a desirable carb to use as raw material. Rebuilt OEM carb = 2F happiness.
 
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Anybody else have any advice for me before I open the new carb?

Yup, return it and get Jim to rebuild an Aisin for you. Sorry if that's not what you wanted hear, but you asked. I had a desmogged 2f with a Holley. I returned it all back to stock, including all the required CA stuff and it runs a lot better. I lost maybe 10% of the top end, but if I wanted to go fast I would have bought a different vehicle.
 

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