Tom Woods 1350 rear driveshafts? (1 Viewer)

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Currently running a Tatton DC rear shaft with 1310 joints. Took some damage when my suspension links snapped so I'm looking to order a new DC rear shaft and use this one as a spare.

I've read some earlier discussions here from @baldilocks that Tom Woods would soon have a 1350 option for our trucks. Called today and the guy I spoke to said he didn't think it would work on an 80 series. Is he confused or am I?

I'm pretty sure the rear pinion and tcase outputs are 27 spline. Any reason this driveshaft wouldn't work?


2023-08-15_13-19-07.jpg
 
Currently running a Tatton DC rear shaft with 1310 joints. Took some damage when my suspension links snapped so I'm looking to order a new DC rear shaft and use this one as a spare.

I've read some earlier discussions here from @baldilocks that Tom Woods would soon have a 1350 option for our trucks. Called today and the guy I spoke to said he didn't think it would work on an 80 series. Is he confused or am I?

I'm pretty sure the rear pinion and tcase outputs are 27 spline. Any reason this driveshaft wouldn't work?


View attachment 3402067
When Tom Woods told me that a 1350 was coming for the 80 the hold up was waiting for Trail Gear to make the yoke that would bolt up to our T-case output. I guess that never happened.
 
C'mon bro. You've taken apart your t-case. The t-case output flange doesn't bolt on, it's a one-piece splined unit.

You can machine a conversion spacer that will adapt to something more common for a 1350 output (like a 2" ford 1350 cv). That's what I did on the Lexus. Marshmallow runs a custom CV head that I would never do again.

Just get another 1310 spare. If you start breaking them, then go bigger. You can also use a 3rd gen 4runner rear shaft and re-tube it.
 
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C'mon bro. You've taken apart your t-case. The t-case output flange doesn't bolt on, it's a one-piece splined unit.

You can machine a conversion spacer that will adapt to something more common for a 1350 output (like a 2" ford 1350 cv). That's what I did on the Lexus. Marshmallow runs a custom CV head that I would never do again.

Just get another 1310 spare. If you start breaking them, then go bigger. You can also use a 3rd gen 4runner rear shaft and re-tube it.

That's what I couldn't remember. Was so long ago that when I did the part-time kit and I didn't do the low-range gears myself. I did find these conversion adapters for Supras, would be nice if there was an easy option for the 80s. Autosports Engineering Driveshaft Adapter Toyota to 1310 1350 U-Joint Flange - https://autosportsengineering.com/product/autosports-engineering-driveshaft-adapter-toyota-to-1310-u-joint/

I agree, not worth the effort and the 1310s really haven't given me any trouble 🤷
 
C'mon bro. You've taken apart your t-case. The t-case output flange doesn't bolt on, it's a one-piece splined unit.

You can machine a conversion spacer that will adapt to something more common for a 1350 output (like a 2" ford 1350 cv). That's what I did on the Lexus. Marshmallow runs a custom CV head that I would never do again.

Just get another 1310 spare. If you start breaking them, then go bigger. You can also use a 3rd gen 4runner rear shaft and re-tube it.
I was referring to that portion of the DC joint that would mate up to the 80 T-case output flange stud pattern. I know the output isn’t bolted to the case… LOL
 
I was referring to that portion of the DC joint that would mate up to the 80 T-case output flange stud pattern. I know the output isn’t bolted to the case… LOL

But Jose didnt
 

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