Tom Wood Drive Shaft Dimensions (1 Viewer)

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Hey All, I am looking to pick up a Tom Wood double cardan drive shaft post caster correction and j Springs lift. I am sitting at about 3+" on my 1996 LX450.... and want to get rid of the vibrations that come with not having a proper drive shaft set up at that height.

IE this.



Question is... what options should I choose for the flanges dimensions, length, X spline vs S spline and grease-able vs non.... (upshots of either?).

Thanks y'all!
 
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You need to measure from your t case to your pinion on the flat mounting surfaces. You should measure in several spots, and then average the number since you can't measure directly from the centers.

ok so the “accuracy” of the length needs to be close but not 100%? Given they the drive shaft has expansion...? That right?
 
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A reasonable measurement is all that's needed. No need to get crazy as they all have slip yolks.
They want a static measurement. Vehicle parked on a relatively level surface. Measure from mating flange to mating flange. Done.
 
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I have a Tom Wood front DC shaft. Don't mess with their hardware. The flange bolts they sell don't fit. Get some new OEM ones or the ones form SOR. The Tom Wood flanges(Spicer I think) are also thicker than the OEM ones so I had the delete the lock washers and use medium strength thread locker. That was my experience anyway.

Both ends were 60 x 60 mm bolt pattern.

Other than that Tom Wood's customer service was great when I had some problems. The DC shaft did fix my vibs. I've had it for about a year now no problems.
 
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Joined
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Messages
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I have a Tom Wood front DC shaft. Don't mess with their hardware. The flange bolts they sell don't fit. Get some new OEM ones or the ones form SOR. The Tom Wood flanges(Spicer I think) are also thicker than the OEM ones so I had the delete the lock washers and use medium strength thread locker. That was my experience anyway.

Both ends were 60 x 60 mm bolt pattern.

Other than that Tom Wood's customer service was great when I had some problems. The DC shaft did fix my vibs. I've had it for about a year now no problems.

This is great advice! thank you! what's the difference bw XB and XC slip yolks? Also did you get grease-able or non? Ive heard both have advantages....
 
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Have you done caster correction plates or new radius arms? And still having vibrations?

Yep! Dropped the sway bar and other links and added in caster correction plates... the issue for me I think is that the TC is so high compared to the diff, despite the angle being corrected..... I could be wrong though but the research I did here would suggest that...
 
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A reasonable measurement is all that's needed. No need to get crazy as they all have slip yolks.
They want a static measurement. Vehicle parked on a relatively level surface. Measure from mating flange to mating flange. Done.
Brilliant! thank you sir!
 
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This is great advice! thank you! what's the difference bw XB and XC slip yolks? Also did you get grease-able or non? Ive heard both have advantages....
For whatever reason this page wasn't as easy to find this time but it has all the info you need. Ignore all the jeep info and go strait to the slip yoke photo. For what its worth I went with the XC because I didn't want to deal with torn boots. I'm also not sure the boot would clear the saw bar.


As far as grease-able vs non I went grease-able because I'll be under there greasing the rear OE ones anyway. Jeep guys seem to like the house brand gold seal ones Tom Woods sells. If you select grease-able that's what you get.
 

sxp

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Yep! Dropped the sway bar and other links and added in caster correction plates... the issue for me I think is that the TC is so high compared to the diff, despite the angle being corrected..... I could be wrong though but the research I did here would suggest that...
Have you measured your angles yet? That is the only way to know if a DC shaft will fix your issue.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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When I first lifted my Reg 4” I was getting a grawling noise on deceleration. So I installed DC front driveshaft.
that was five years ago and it fixed the growling noise. But I had the caster problem so I added the LandTank 4* caster plates. Problem fixed.
Sense then I have changed the spring no less the 5 times running from 3” to 5” of lift And trying several different brands And tire from 35s to 37s and now 39s with 31/4” lift and the axle moved forward 11/8” via plates and re-drilled holes.
Through all the changes the grawling never returned and no vibrations. with the plates it still drives nice on the road.
The Reg has 270 k miles and the rear shaft is original including the U joints.
I can see no rhythm or rime as to the-reason why some Riggs get vibrations and some Regs don’t.
 

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