Toe setting?

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CharlieS

CharlieS

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A quick search nets me 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" of toe in. What is your preference?

My setup, 3" Icon lift, Landtank 2.5 caster plates, no body lift, 35" mud tires. In case it matters, I run a front and rear steel bumpers, steel sliders, front winch, no rear swingouts, internal tire carrier, no cargo drawers. Only interior still there is front seats.

After I replaced the old caster correction bushings with caster plates and stock bushings I noticed some additional "dartiness" on the road, and I had to recenter my steering wheel. I expect my toe is off.

I have TMR caster measurement plates, so I just need a setting to shoot for.

Thanks in advance!
 
I just set mine at 1/4 toe. I’m on 35’s. Drives great besides the scrub wear I had from prior on the tires making them crazy loud now.
 
I would like to know more..

I was taught..

(Edit misspoke thanks for the correction)-Camber increases grip in turns as tire contact patch flattens when suspension compresses (not really applicable to SFA)

+Caster counters the ability of the vehicle to turn. Increases straight line stability at higher speed.

+toe decreases the effect of “lane wandering” by increasing the tendency for the wheels to “snap back” straight. It also increases low speed turning radius.
 
Last edited:
DIRTBIKEUSA said:
I would like to know more..

I was taught..

+Camber increases grip in turns as tire contact patch flattens when suspension compresses (not really applicable to SFA)

+Caster counters the ability of the vehicle to turn. Increases straight line stability at higher speed.

+toe decreases the effect of “lane wandering” by increasing the tendency for the wheels to “snap back” straight. It also increases low speed turning radius.
Click to expand...
So negative camber can improve grip in corners as the weight transfers over. How much depends on the driving you're doing as well as the shock/spring combo you run as it will compress more or less, so more or less negative camber may help. On all my old VW GTIs with coilovers, I only ran -2* camber and -1* camber plates in the rear, but that car saw around 600 miles of canyon roads a week. But you are correct, on our rigs that's not something we typically look at except to make sure the axle isn't bent

Positive caster definitely affects straight line driving as it reduces the shopping cart wheel effect, but every vehicle is different as to how much it likes, probably coming down to more than just toe setting and tire size. On my Cruiser I originally set my 3 link up for 6* of caster and it never felt right. Adjusted to 3.5* and suddenly it's content to just cruiser down the highway. Is that because of how much toe in I have? Is it my link set up? No clue, but it's happy so I leave it alone

Positive toe improves straight line stability, but it only has a part in the return to center. The other part of RTC is caster. Negative toe can make our rigs feel twitchy on the road. Combine that with a lift and larger tires that have more leverage against holding straight and you can imagine how it gets amplified.

I know there's some real suspension wizards in here that know more of the intricacies of how it all works, so maybe one of them will chime in also
 
1/8"-1/4" in seems where mine likes it the most. I'm at 0 night now, and its not happy. Pick up a set of the alignment plates, they are worth it. I have two sets of these, and really like them.


www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toe Alignment Tool Off-Road Vehicle Steering Adjustment | RuffStuff Specialties

Professional toe alignment tool for precise steering adjustments on off-road vehicles. Essential tool for suspension setup and alignment. Quality fabrication tool from RuffStuff.
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
 
cruzinfj1 said:
1/8"-1/4" in seems where mine likes it the most. I'm at 0 night now, and its not happy. Pick up a set of the alignment plates, they are worth it. I have two sets of these, and really like them.


www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toe Alignment Tool Off-Road Vehicle Steering Adjustment | RuffStuff Specialties

Professional toe alignment tool for precise steering adjustments on off-road vehicles. Essential tool for suspension setup and alignment. Quality fabrication tool from RuffStuff.
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have a set of these plates:
1715896840124.webp
 
Right now I'm running 1/16th toe in with 35s. The FSM spec is based on stock tire size. The larger the tire diameter, the less toe you need as you are further out from the center point.

Caster also plays a huge role in how much toe in is needed to achieve the handling you are comfortable with.
I have DVS leading arms which slightly over correct my caster. I was getting very heavy steering with almost too much return to center.
I had zeroed out toe at one point, but it started to wander. The 1/16 seems to be just right for me. It lightened up the steering with very good return to center. Daily driving is very comfortable.
In short, whatever works for you is the correct setting.
 
jonheld said:
The larger the tire diameter, the less toe you need as you are further out from the center point.
Click to expand...

I think you have that backasswards.

The same measurement for toe on a smaller tire is gonna give a greater angle in than it will have on a larger tire.

All other suspension and steering geometry is measured in degrees. I always thought it odd that toe is a measurement, not degrees
 
Need a Toe 101 episode please. I always measured toe in degrees. When you guys say 1/4 I assume you mean inches but what are the references? Are you using a standard length bar across the hubs with a 1/4" difference between the width at the forward and aft ends?
For the past few years I have set my toe at 1° in. I use a set of angle irons from an old bed frame that I adapted to fit the hubs. I take measurements and then get busy with getting my boy to figure out all the Pythagoras stuff.
 
Irish Reiver said:
Need a Toe 101 episode please. I always measured toe in degrees. When you guys say 1/4 I assume you mean inches but what are the references? Are you using a standard length bar across the hubs with a 1/4" difference between the width at the forward and aft ends?
For the past few years I have set my toe at 1° in. I use a set of angle irons from an old bed frame that I adapted to fit the hubs. I take measurements and then get busy with getting my boy to figure out all the Pythagoras stuff.
Click to expand...
I use an incredibly complicated and scientific method. Those without an engineering degree might not understand.

Jackstands under the front axle, 2 small wood screws in the outer lugs of the tires.
Rotate tires until the screws are level with the axle in the front.
Use the tape with numbers.
Rotate tires until the screws are level with the axle in the rear.
Use the tape with numbers.
Subtract front reading from rear.

Accurate? Not really.
Repeatable? Absolutely.

Since installing the DVS arms, I've adjusted the toe about 3 or 4 times to get it where I was comfortable. She tracks true, doesn't follow ruts in the highway, and is comfortable on long drives. Very even front tire wear.

Again, whatever works for you is the correct method and setting. It will likely vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle and driver to driver.
 
Irish Reiver said:
Need a Toe 101 episode please. I always measured toe in degrees. When you guys say 1/4 I assume you mean inches but what are the references? Are you using a standard length bar across the hubs with a 1/4" difference between the width at the forward and aft ends?
For the past few years I have set my toe at 1° in. I use a set of angle irons from an old bed frame that I adapted to fit the hubs. I take measurements and then get busy with getting my boy to figure out all the Pythagoras stuff.
Click to expand...
order a pair of the tools in either of the two posts above. Cant get any more simple and self explanatory.
 
I set the toe in to 5ish mm which seems to be around 3/16" ish and a quick test drive tells me it is happy with this setup.

Thanks everyone!
 
Irish Reiver said:
Need a Toe 101 episode please. I always measured toe in degrees. When you guys say 1/4 I assume you mean inches but what are the references? Are you using a standard length bar across the hubs with a 1/4" difference between the width at the forward and aft ends?
For the past few years I have set my toe at 1° in. I use a set of angle irons from an old bed frame that I adapted to fit the hubs. I take measurements and then get busy with getting my boy to figure out all the Pythagoras stuff.
Click to expand...
I'm not mathy, but I suspect the inches or mm of toe can be quickly translated into an angle measurement. I imagine you end up with the same result. The measuring tape technique has the benefit that it makes it easy for the DIYer without any math other than subtraction.
 
It depends how far out from the axle center it is where you measure. I have a set of aluminum angle pieces, they get fixed to the hub with lug nuts, and I measure 15” from axle center. That way the tie rod and the front arms don’t get in the way of measuring the rear side of the axle. According to the late Tools R Us (RIP), this is part 1; part 2 is driving the truck and see how it does, and perhaps change accordingly.
 
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