TJM T13 Bull bar installed - Lots of pics (2 Viewers)

[Archtaan]

So got the TJM T13 bumper installed today, well 95% completed. More on that later. The bar and mounts weights 180 pounds. The removed and unused parts weighs 43 pounds so net gain is 137#’s (without a winch)


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Still right at 38”. I am running the heavy front OME coils since I knew I was going with a winch bar. Didn’t lose any height.

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Any how. Onto the install. Took me 10 hours.

Ready to start the fun

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The bumper is very well packaged. Lots of bubble wrap and cardboard.

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You have to remove the grill, upper rad cover, a ton of lower bumper bolts, the crash bar and mounting hardware, air guides on both sides and carefully disconnect the sensors, fog lights and headlight washers. You also need to remove the front two inner skid plate bolts.

Here is what the crash bar looks like.

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These crash bar mounts need to removed. Same with the tow hooks. The tow hooks will be reinstalled later with new hardware.

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Stripped and ready to start installing. For the removal of the factory stuff, just go slow and be aware that there are more bolts and clips than listed in the instructions. Don’t go yanking and pulling, if it doenst come apart easily then you have missed something.

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Trim up these air guides. One on both sides. The lower portions get in the way of the bumper. 10mm bolts to remove. Once cutting you mount the back up.

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Got bolts?

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Be sure to get yourself organized. They are all metric. I used a dial caliper to figure out the lengths. They are mostly nylon nuts (I hate them) so you need multiple duplicate sockets and wrenches to tighten them up.

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1st part of the install! The block fits in a factory frame slot and the threaded rod is used as an additional mounting point.

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LOL, doesn’t fit in the factory slot. Square peg, oval hole.

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Dremel time. I used a tungsten carbide bit to enlarge and square the slot.

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After much shaping, it fits. Debur the cuts and I used some touch up paint to protect the exposed metal after grinding.

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Slide the block in with the threaded hole outboard. Use Loctite and thread rod in. Do not drop the block. I don’t think you would be able to get it out if you did.

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Guess where the drivers side one goes. Yup, behind the KDSS cylinder and it doesn’t fit either..

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[Archtaan]

You can kinda get in there with the dremel to star the cuts. I had to use a hand file to finish squaring off the corners since you cant get a straight shot with the dremel. If you have arms that can make 3 90* bends in opposite directions, you would be able to do it easier.

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Provided mount on the factory captive studs after removing the factory crash bar mount. Note the supplied threaded rod. Torque to spec. Factory tow hooks remount underneath at this point.

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Here is the winch mounting plate. The bull mounts to this. Center it and torque to spec.

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You have to mount the 45* uprights for stability. It’s a tight fit. I used a rubber mallet to persuade it into place.

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Lift the bar onto the mount. It secures with 3 bolts on each side. Once you have it set where you want, you drill a hole using the existing hole in the bar and thread in an additional bolt on each side. I used a piece of wood to set the spacing. I was able to lift it and mount it by myself, but it would be easier with two friends.

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Mounting area for the trim covers. - The instructions don’t mention you have to remove some extra bracing under the headlights. These are secured with metal captive locks and screws from underneath. You need a 1”, 5” and 10” Phillips screwdriver to attach the 5 screws.

Also you can see the headlight washers. They plumb into the factory tubing with adapters. You wont be reusing the factory ones. They include 1 way check valves and plenty of mounts and zip ties.

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Here are the lights provided by TJM. Taiwan made. LED.

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Driving light installed. The provided hardware was too large to fit in the mounting holes so I used a drill to open them up.

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The wiring has to be spliced into the factory harness . I haven’t done that yet. Plenty of wire is provided.

The light snaps into the back plate.

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Factory splash guards need to be trimmed. About the same on both sides. I used a set of tin shears, but you could use a dremel or other cutting tool.

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Red to green, black to white/blk stripe.

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They work with the factory switch.


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Fog light with provided weather connect plug (It doesn’t fit the oem plug I found out after so I had to pull the spades out. Ill order another weather pack later. The provided plug spaces the spades way to close together.

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Mounting tab for the fog lights

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Side braces installed. These mount from the winch cradle to the outer edges of the bar using 6 supplied bolts and nylon lock nuts.

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This plate is mounted underneath. It gives extra protection and seals up the wiring for the lights and washer.

Lower cover installed.

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[Archtaan]

Lower cover installed.

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More to come.

Light wiring and sensor installation.

3/29-
Got the senors pulled out of the factory bumper. Pretty easy. Unclip the main harness and using 4 hands, a pair of pliers and some small spade screwdrivers compress the springs and push through the hole.







Also got the fog lights wired and aimed. The lights come with screw type aiming adjusters. They are controlled with the factory switch, auto, on, off. No issues.

 

[Rigger]

Great write-up! Thanks!

 

[MScruiser]

Excellent write up!! What a pain!!!

So just to verify, this DID come with the winch bracket?

Also, did you say you ordered from Summit or Andy's?

 

[Archtaan]

Excellent write up!! What a pain!!!

So just to verify, this DID come with the winch bracket?

Also, did you say you ordered from Summit or Andy's?

Everything pictured was included. The bar cannot be mounted without the winch plate. I ended up going with Summit. Andy's had the old style and was getting wishy washy about shipping times so I switched.

 

[Archtaan]

The construction is top Notch. Clean cuts, excellent hardware and smooth finish. Every hole lined up so I didn't need to modify anything on the bumper.

Instructions were more of a guide and a little confusing at times. It's mostly bolt on with just a bit of modifications needed. If you remove the headlights it would be easier as well. That was not in the instructions but I would recommend it if you are having trouble getting to the bolts under it. They don't include thread locker and you need 2 bastard sized metric drill bits. I'll pick the 22 up today. Going to have to go to a specialty store it seems.

You need a good combination of sockets, swivels, wrenches, a dremel, some paint, cutting shears, several sizes of screwdrivers, a drill, a soldering iron(prefferred)-you could use crimp connectors and lots of patience. Set 10 hours aside.

The gap I set is a little tighter than recommended. They say 30mm, I went with 1", about a 1/4" less.

 

[Hothonda]

WOW...thanks!

EDIT.....I wonder about the vague instructions & blunders in parts fitting . Although the end product looks good in photos...well I just wonder why the sloppy execution from the vendor/manufacturer. Don't they test fit this stuff?

As a potential mod addict, I'd stay away.

 

[JamesC]

Nice install. Looks great

 

[mtnracer]

Looks great but some of the installation issues, while fixable, don't exactly speak for TJM. The blocks that don't fit round holes and lighting hardware that doesn't fit? I wonder if ARB would have similar issues.

 

[steenh]

There is a writeup from someone (can't remember who) that installed the ARB and based on his writeup, I think it was a lot more painful than this appears to be, and more than 10 hours if I remember correctly. I had someone do my ARB, and they weren't all that impressed with the kit from an ease of installation perspective... though they did say it was all very high quality.

 

[SWUtah]

How does this impact the airbag system?

 

[arellanon]

Nice work! Thanks for the info.

 

[Archtaan]

Looks great but some of the installation issues, while fixable, don't exactly speak for TJM. The blocks that don't fit round holes and lighting hardware that doesn't fit? I wonder if ARB would have similar issues.

I agree 100%. The actual TJM parts are top notch, nicely cut and finished.

The lighting is probably a universal fit, however if you follow the instructions its written as plug and play which it is not. It might be for Non-US spec cruisers as well so keep that in mind. The mounting block is designed for the Land cruiser so you would think it would fit, again - there could be variations to Non-US spec cruisers and they might drop in on other LC's. Im sure they are sourced from somewhere but who knows? Just know what to expect when one is doing an install on a US cruiser.

How does this impact the airbag system?

Airbag compliant, one of the reasons I went with this brand. (Others are as well)

 

[Willy beamin]

To update this thread I tracked down a 22mm (7/8's really) and 10mm drill bit going through Grainger Industrial Supply. Total was around $45 / will call pick up
thanks

 

[Archtaan]

Picture of the supplied switch used for the lightforce lights.

 

[Rigger]

Cool that you did it yourself. I'm such a lazy putz! I just had Slee do mine, so my write-up is like this:

1) Asked wife to bring truck to Slee.
2) Gave Slee big pile of money.
3) Asked wife to pick up truck from Slee.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Do you have to cut the front bumper cover for TJM install?

Did you color match bottom half of bumper? Any side pics?

 

[Willy beamin]

No cutting my friend. Clean trade out.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Any pics of white 200 with this bumper?