Timing Cover REAL TIME PIX

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FJ60BigLou

FJ60BigLou

10 Year
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Threads
70
Messages
234
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
Ive removed all the bolts from timing cover (85 60 w/2f). I have disconnected oil cooler hose brackets. Last I whacked the tc a few times with rubber mallet. Tc won't budge. Don't want to damage cover or score surfaces. What am I doing wrong? Any advice appreciated!
Timing cover 1

Timing cover 1

Timing cover 2

Timing cover 2

Timing cover 3

Timing cover 3

Timing cover 4

Timing cover 4

Timing cover 6

Timing cover 6

 
Paint or ice (poly) scraper... it's just baked on. You gotta peel it up. Spray it liberally w/ simple green or even PB, just something that can seep into the gasket so it can let go.
 
if no more bolts, then go ahead and send in a putty knife, tap gently around the cover with a plastic mallet.
 
The cover is (obviously) stuck to the gasket.

Go slow and carefully pry, tap around the edges with a sharpened putty knife underneath the gasket. Don't crank it off, you'll bend the flange. Just niggle away at it like an insect. Tiny bit at a time.
 
Output Shaft said:
The cover is (obviously) stuck to the gasket.

Go slow and carefully pry, tap around the edges with a sharpened putty knife underneath the gasket. Don't crank it off, you'll bend the flange. Just niggle away at it like an insect. Tiny bit at a time.
Click to expand...
Niggle. That's a new one.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
if no more bolts, then go ahead and send in a putty knife, tap gently around the cover with a plastic mallet.
Click to expand...
True. I looked and thought that too but didn't think to say it. Definetly. It has a nut on the back of it too. If you break it it's fairly easy to replace at advance auto. I had to as I sheared the bolt.
 
I removed two bolts and nuts for the hose bracket and it now moves out of the way. Got all bolts shown in FSM. Going to pick up plastic putty knife today. All I have is metal paint scraper. Niggle later.
 
Obviously I'm chasing oil leak and replacing the timing cover gasket and front main seal. While cleaning it up I noticed the stuff in the pix. Looks like sealant from a tube. Didn't know if this is factory or po? What do you think? If po, how much of an issue to take care of. 60 not running now and front wide open. I'd like to get this stuff taken care of before putting front back on. Thoughts?
Timing cover 9

Timing cover 9

Timing cover 8

Timing cover 8

Timing cover 7

Timing cover 7

 
Someone has pulled that plate which is held behind the gears. Could be it's bent and that's how they tried to remedy its mating surface. That's basically what I was told as I was pulling my cover.
 
Gears have to be pulled and not 100% sure if the plate will come free w/ crank in place. @beno? @orangefj45?
 
that is the bead of FIPG someone put on the oil pan gasket when it was replaced once. There IS a plate behind the cover, but I think the bead we're questioning is the pan. if it's down and not going anywhere, you could order a new 1 piece gasket and drop the pan. OTOH, if you think there is a [possibility of the timing PLATE laeking too, just bite the billet and go for it now. you will need to remove the pushrods and side cover and lifters and cam and crank gear to remove the timing PLATE. at that point, if there is anything inside you want to check out, you may as well do it. Wash that sucker down and be very careful when IDing your leak(s) point(s)
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
that is the bead of FIPG someone put on the oil pan gasket when it was replaced once. There IS a plate behind the cover, but I think the bead we're questioning is the pan. if it's down and not going anywhere, you could order a new 1 piece gasket and drop the pan. OTOH, if you think there is a [possibility of the timing PLATE laeking too, just bite the billet and go for it now. you will need to remove the pushrods and side cover and lifters and cam and crank gear to remove the timing PLATE. at that point, if there is anything inside you want to check out, you may as well do it. Wash that sucker down and be very careful when IDing your leak(s) point(s)
Click to expand...
Not trying to seem pushy but you sure the curve of the pan goes down that low behind that plate? I just had my hands on an extra pan in my garage this AM that I need to test how good it's welds are and I swear it doesn't arch down that shallow.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
that is the bead of FIPG someone put on the oil pan gasket when it was replaced once. There IS a plate behind the cover, but I think the bead we're questioning is the pan. if it's down and not going anywhere, you could order a new 1 piece gasket and drop the pan. OTOH, if you think there is a [possibility of the timing PLATE laeking too, just bite the billet and go for it now. you will need to remove the pushrods and side cover and lifters and cam and crank gear to remove the timing PLATE. at that point, if there is anything inside you want to check out, you may as well do it. Wash that sucker down and be very careful when IDing your leak(s) point(s)
Click to expand...

If you go in deep enough to replace the timing plate gasket you'll have to loosen the engine mounts and slightly lift the engine for the cam gear the lower valance. The crank gear can stay in place because the timing plate hole is such that it can be removed with that gear in place.

I agree that the silicone bead is along the front edge of the oil pan.
 
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