timing and backfire

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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Thanks for the help!!
I would claim a "senior moment", but brain death is more apt.
Senior moment or no, we must know:
1) have you been able to comprehend the basic workings of a 4 cycle engine? Primarily the fact that there are 2 TDCs?
B) can you reliably and repeatedly set your engine at the correct TDC?
III) can you do so and then post a pic of your dizzy rotor?
 
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yes, I understand the 4 cycle, 2 TDC. I used the cork method to find the compression cycle.
Repeatedly. It fires up and runs pretty well, might need some fine tuning. But...

Of course now the oil isn't flowing to the rockers. Tried repeated insertions of the dizzy. It appears to be all the way in by measurement, and by visible inspection. Tried the screwdriver spin, but nada. Oil is clean. It has been flowing, but not now.
more troubleshooting now
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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That oil can take a while to get up to the rockers. Do you have oil pressure on a gauge?
 
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repeated the dizzy install, fired it up and got 50 lbs oil pressure. Shut it down to clean up a bit. When I fired it up again, no pressure!
That dizzy sure looks all the way in...
 
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question on the oil pump cam...
- should it be spinning when the engine turns over? I used a remote start and didn't see it move at all...
-When I turned it by hand using a long screwdriver there was some resistance or drag, it wasn't 'loose'
 

73FJ40

After another night of rust removal!
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What is an oil pump cam?

Going back to post #13, above, the blade on the bottom of the distributor fits into the slot in the oil pump, turning the pump one revolution for every revolution of the distributor.

The camshaft turns the distributor, and the distributor turns the oil pump.

Bumping the engine and looking down at the oil pump slot won't do anything.
 

Shark56

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When you say you used a screw driver... Is it attached to a drill to get the RPM's needed to get the oil moving?
 
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thanks for the description of the pump action.
I was using a long screwdriver in a drill to try to turn the pump. I was hesitant to spin it too fast and too long....any advice on that?
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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This is a 2F oil pump. It is sturdily built, has 3 or 4 moving parts in it.
My 2Fish engine runs all day, comfortably at 2k RPM. Means oil pump spinning at 1k RPM. All day long. I don't think you can hurt an oil pump by spinning it with a drill. I think the drill would give out first.

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right now I'm just trying to get oil pressure. When I spun the pump with the drill my observer said there was pressure on the gauge.
Set the TDC with a cork-pop-out method, check for true TDC, position the dizzy, then use downward HARD pressure while spinning the starter. Thunk!
Visually the dizzy is all the way down. But no pressure on the gauge after startup.

This can't be that difficult,,,
 
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Pighead, you said "line up the gears" when you stand on the tire and push down on the dizzy and then bump the starter.
Could I be not lining up the gears somehow?
The FSM suggests lining up the pump notch with roughly the #4 plug...
 
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The factory literature pertains to a "factory correct" vehicle with "factory correct" parts in the "factory correct" locations. In truth it doesn't matter where your distributor is "pointing". What matters is that, if you really are at TDC and the distributor is properly seated in the block with the oil pump engaged, then your rotor should be pointing at whatever spark plug wire is connected to the cap which you have removed to see the rotor that leads to the No. 1 spark plug.

That's it. The vehicle should fire and you can pull in a little advance with the timing light.
 
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that's what I did. It starts up just fine and runs, but still no oil pressure...though there was with the drill. Seems like the dizzy isn't all the way in, but it felt like it dropped and there's no shoulder left at the block.
I'll remove the clamp for better visualization and try again...
 

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