Time to make a cooling decision

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

CreeperSleeper

CreeperSleeper

Cascade Cruisers
SILVER Star
20 Year 15 Year 10 Year
Joined
May 16, 2005
Threads
182
Messages
7,482
Location
Canby, OR
Okay everybody, after reading all of the threads on the fan clutch / overheating that have been so popular over the summer and doing a lot of soul searching I have come down to two options:

1) Replace the factory setup with dual electric puller fans. As of right now I'm running the stock electrical system with an aftermarket sterio (small amp and sub).

2) Replace the fan clutch with a spacer and run a good quality flex fan.

I'm just wondering what you guys would do given those two choices. I'm not interested in modifying my fan clutch or the other alternatives that might work. I get one shot at this.

Just so you know, this vehicle is only driven to go wheeling (driven to trailhead) and an occasional drive in town (once or twice a month). TIA
 
Where you live and what you do, i would just run an stock fan clutch, simple and you know it will work. They are not expensive. I am running a stock unmodified fan clutch with a supercharger (Bigger fan though - TRD Kit)

Why are you so concerned?
 
I've gone thru four fan clutches in a year and it will still heat up on me going up logging roads. I've done the whole replace and flush routine and it helped for a bit, but it seems like everytime I started it up the fan clutch roar is a little less. When I first put my last clutch in, it would hold a 3x5 chunk of cardboard to the grill. Four months later it has trouble holding a peice of printer paper. I'm just sick of messing with it as it's costing me so much re-buying parts. It's taking away from buying things I want to buy.

As for the terrian, it's steep and rocky with some slimy surface mud thrown in to make things interesting. IE: just your typical Pacific Northwest wheeling minus the mud holes!
 
are you buying Toyota OEM. That is not typical. If you are buying Toyota OEM, then the replacement should be free if you have done 4 in a year.
 
If you convert to a full electric set up take a look at http://www.dccontrol.com/ for a controller. The controllers are expensive but, in my opinion, worth it. The goal is to run the fan at a speed that can maintain a set temperature. This means that you get variable fan speed (which means fewer amps used), a slow ramp up (less initial load on the electrical system) and smaller temperature swings in your cooling system. I also really like the design aspect of this controller. See the Technology page and it's Reliability section and also the Perspective page. Rarely will you see a manufacturer today make these types of statements.

I'm using this controller now for a set of pusher fans on my FJ-62 and will later convert to use it for a dedicated puller fan (probably a Ford Contour, see below).

Also interesting are their Intergral Fans. I like the fact that these are based on OEM fans (OK, so they're Ford, I still think that's better quality than aftermarket). There is a single that is a Lincoln Mark VIII. This will pull 4300 cfm on full and even at half speed the cfm is excellent and the amperage draw is low. The dual is, I believe, a Ford Contour fan. This moves 3400 cfm on full and also has good half speed cfm and amperage draw.
 
Good luck finding a mark VIII fan in a boneyard, they are scarce but would work. My freind just put on e on his 01 lightning and towed a 20 ' trailer from SLC to san fransisco and back with no issues. I am still thinking about this not because of your issue but to get some ponies back.
Dave
 
Lets go back for a moment and look at what is going on:

what do you stick in the fan clutch to test it and how often?

How long have you had your truck and how long before you first replaced your fan clutch?

Any other modifications in there?

Is the shroud still there?

anything else you can tell us about your setup?

When you replace your fan clutch, what are the steps you take?

What do you do to ensure it's mounted right?

Do you see anything abnormal like an oscillation about it's operation?
 
"what do you stick in the fan clutch to test it and how often?"

I have yet to stick anything in the fan, just the sticking things to the grill and noise.

"How long have you had your truck and how long before you first replaced your fan clutch?"

About a month for the first one.

"Any other modifications in there?"

Just dirt. (I did presure wash the rad out as best I could from the inside and will hose down the engine bay whenever I was the truck, around 2x a yr)

"Is the shroud still there?"

Yes

"anything else you can tell us about your setup?"

The air filter needs to be replaced. It has an aftermarket T-Stat, but I'm 99% sure it is working correctly and a new rad cap that I tested in a pan of water.

"When you replace your fan clutch, what are the steps you take?"

I followed the steps in FAQ and the FSM.

"What do you do to ensure it's mounted right?"

See answer above and below.

"Do you see anything abnormal like an oscillation about it's operation?"

Not a thing.
 
Maybe the rad is clogged with dirt, but I don't have a problem at higher speeds and/ or coasting downhill in the woods. The only thing that really makes sence is the fan clutch unless I've gotten so used to the roar I can't hear it when I'm listening for it.
 
Have you thought of adding a temp gauge so you can monitor collent temps, or you could use an OBD II scanner. You could monitor the coolent system to verify you do have a problem. The stock temp gauge is worthless.

I am guessing by your last post that you do have a cooling problem. If so, could you elaborate?
 
I've checked temp off the scanner before, but it's not hooked up all the time.

The time I notice that there is a problem the most is when I'm driving up steep grades at low speeds (IE logging roads). However, like I said before, I don't drive it very often, so she's not in traffic... ever. It's only in a situation where I'm holding 2nd gear at a constant speed (approx 3000 rpm). That's around 20 to 25 mph. BTW- I'm running 35's with stock gears, so the engine is working harder that usual.
 
Start with your thermostat. Many people have discovered early failure or failure to fully open with non OEM thermostats which you have. The factory part is not expensive and easy to replace. Second, have you tried a new factory radiator cap?

What temps are you actually seeing? You need to define what you mean by running hot.
 
i find it funny that people are having problems with fan clutches and overheating. i, for some reason have the blue fan clutch. It still roars when i start it up. i have never had an overheating problem except when the PHH blew. Even in stop-n-go city traffic with the AC on and it be 97 out, i still don't over heat.

Wonder why i have a blue fan clutch on a 95? I thought that was a newer clutch design.
 
How do you test a radiator cap in a pan of water? It's pressure activated, not temp. Of course, it won't make your truck run hot unless there's coolant spewing out.

x2 on the thermostat. Toy therms are superior to aftermarket in both design and function. Make sure it's oriented correctly when installed- bleeder hole at the top IIRC.

The factory fan clutch is fine, no need to go solid, nor would it be desireable IMO. The factory system should be fine in your situation. Oregon isn't particularly hot AFAIK, so you shouldn't 'need' to do anything. Here in Hell, Arizona, I added an electric fan in front of the condenser that runs with the A/C and keeps the engine temp under control and the A/C cold at idle, which I do a lot of on trails. For normal driving I haven't found the factory setup to be a problem, even while towing in the mountains in the summer.

If you have a problem with your thermostat or your radiator, adding more air flow isn't the answer.

-Spike
 
wouldn't a separate problem that caused temps high enough to have the clutch always "on" add to its premature demise? Maybe the problem isn't the fan clutch. Maybe that's just a symptom of some other issue in the cooling system and the clutch is overworked and failing as a result.
 
C6H12O6 said:
wouldn't a separate problem that caused temps high enough to have the clutch always "on" add to its premature demise? Maybe the problem isn't the fan clutch. Maybe that's just a symptom of some other issue in the cooling system and the clutch is overworked and failing as a result.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking that too, but I've replaced everything but the rad and I've had that power flushed...

I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace the rad cap and t-stat and have it flushed again. :o :o At this rate I will never get my gears...:o :o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

IH8MUD Forum | Toyota, Lexus & Off-Road Community
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2026 XenForo Ltd.

© 2000-2026 Tie Rod Media LLC

Back
Top Bottom