Time for new brakes.. any suggestions / tips?

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atsparkinson

Joined
Oct 29, 2018
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It is time to replace rotors and pads on my 2017 LC (according to the dealer anyway) I am sitting at 45K miles...

Does anyone have any recommendations on Rotors? It seems like TRD pads are the way to go but there are some nice rotor/pad combos from EBC that I have been looking at. It looks like the 2016+ are different sizes so i want to make sure i order the correct stuff.

Should I replace the rear pads / rotors at the same time? Any thing to watch out for during the install?
 
I put EBC rotors and pads on my 2015 about 2+ years ago. I am very happy with them.
 
I'd like to ask a dummy question. I understand brake upgrades on a sports car....shorter stopping distance, rotor induced heat fade, etc.

Why on the LC? Do pads for the LC, like TRD or EBC, significantly shorten the stopping distance, produce less heat for downhill runs, etc.? Anybody got a link to a test?
 
OEM rotors are very high quality and quite affordable via the discount parts sites. And no issues like rear rotors rubbing on backing plates that some have experienced even with high quality aftermarket.

TRD pads are a great compromise. They will add dust that didn’t seem to occur stock, but have better initial bite and much better performance once they get hot. I’m very happy with them on my 13 cruiser and I drive it pretty hard.

That said, I’ve had great luck with EBC parts on other cars. Typically slotted rotors and Green Stuff pads. I’ve run yellows before but unless it’s effectively a track car I don’t think the poor cold performance or corrosive dust are worth dealing with.

If you stick with stock pads I’d just wait until it’s needed to do the rears. If you change front pad compound, you should also do rear brakes so the axles remain balanced in braking performance.
 
LBridges said:
I'd like to ask a dummy question. I understand brake upgrades on a sports car....shorter stopping distance, rotor induced heat fade, etc.

Why on the LC? Do pads for the LC, like TRD or EBC, significantly shorten the stopping distance, produce less heat for downhill runs, etc.? Anybody got a link to a test?
Click to expand...

See the post I link here for one example. In my case braking performance was a small factor, but using a pad that can deal with the way I drive was more important. I never figured out what caused the rotor discoloration, but the pictures of a degraded front pad clearly from heat show why higher performance pads are warranted in some cases.

 
Yes. I don’t have the part numbers but stuff from a similar year tundra is what I used.

Unsure whether that changes for the larger 16+ fronts but my hunch is it doesn’t. I *think* the pads stayed the same while the rotor got bigger and the caliper moved outward as a result.
 
atsparkinson said:
Do you have the part number for the pad?
Click to expand...
Check out this post
Mar 11, 2018
As I posted previously, I’ve been very happy with the feel and performance of my recently replaced OEM brake system parts with TRD pads, DBA T3 Survival Series Rotors, and StopTech stainless brake lines. I have a similar set up on my ‘07 4R (only difference is StopTech slotted rotors on that vs DBA on my ‘14 LC). I can’t recommend this enough...

StopTech Stainless Steel Brakelines:
Front = 950.44025
Rear = 950.44519

TRD High Performance Brake Pads:
Front = PTR09-0C111
Rear = PTR09-0C110

DBA T3 4000 4X4 Survival Series Rotors:
Front = DBA42722XS
Rear = DBA2723X
 
running the same set up as above. Freakin love it!
 
@chemguys seems like are you confirming front pad PTR09-0C111 fits 2016. Then I need to see if the LC OEM pads for 2016 is the same as 2020.

I looked at two Toyota parts site and they claim the pad numbers above work for Tundra to 2019; Sequoia 2008-2017; and LC 2008-2010. I'm wondering why Sequoia drops off after 2017.
 
atsparkinson said:
It is time to replace rotors and pads on my 2017 LC (according to the dealer anyway) I am sitting at 45K miles...

Does anyone have any recommendations on Rotors? It seems like TRD pads are the way to go but there are some nice rotor/pad combos from EBC that I have been looking at. It looks like the 2016+ are different sizes so i want to make sure i order the correct stuff.

Should I replace the rear pads / rotors at the same time? Any thing to watch out for during the install?
Click to expand...

Just did mine over the weekend, actually (2008 LX). The issue i ran into was that the PO only drove it a few thousand miles a year, in addition to it being a Northern car, which led to the Caliper pins/nuts rusting/seizing from sitting on there for so long. The caliper pins were cheap and available at local auto parts store, so i went ahead and replaced them with new ones. Make sure you put brake lubricant onto the pins when you put them back in.

Unless your rotors are warped, i would not worry about replacing it. The OEM rotors are cheap and very good quality so if you do replace it, i would consider keeping rotors OEM and just do pads. I went with the TRD pads myself per other members recommendations.

Make sure you torque the wheel nuts back on so that it is not over tightened; i had 1 wheel lock and wheel lock key break on me on the last wheel, and had to do the hammer socket trick to get it out. I don't think that would have happened if it was tightened using a torque wrench and not a impact gun/breaker bar.

If you are doing it yourself and run into any issues, shoot me a message and i will be glad to help. I basically ran into every problem i could have since it has been so long since brakes were done on my car (broke 1 lock, stripped 1 caliper nut), but managed to get it done. I used a 10mm, 17mm and whatever size the wheel nuts are. I also did not have a press so i had to use a flathead to depress the calipers and that actually worked really well when you leave the pads in there for leverage.
 
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LBridges said:
@chemguys seems like are you confirming front pad PTR09-0C111 fits 2016. Then I need to see if the LC OEM pads for 2016 is the same as 2020.

I looked at two Toyota parts site and they claim the pad numbers above work for Tundra to 2019; Sequoia 2008-2017; and LC 2008-2010. I'm wondering why Sequoia drops off after 2017.
Click to expand...
My parts guy is great and confirmed the fit. I know we have parts gurus on Mud and I bet one of them will chime in to confirm for you.
 
On my 17, the Racing Brake 2-piece floating rotors on the front with EBC Orange Stuff pads are amazing. EBC rotors in the rear with Orange Stuff pads.
 
I replaced my factory disks with factory disks, but I cryo froze them prior to installing. Combined with factor pads and stainless steel lines.

The cryo freezing won’t allow a warp for about 3 times longer than normal and no brake dust from aftermarket pads.

It’s worked for me, may not be the answer for everyone.
 
Any tips for the stainless steel line replacement? Does it require bleed or any special procedures once they are in.. i think i would like to get that done on my 2017... although i havent even inspected the lines.
 
I didn’t like the TRD pads, too much dust and warped my rotors within a few thousand miles, so am currently back to 100% OEM.

All being said, the braking difference between the 15’ and 20’ model is noticeable. I am going to research to see what changes were made after 15’ as mentioned above and see what can be retrofitted To achieve the much better feel the current model offers.

I have had good experience with DBA on 2 80 series, so possibly a good option.
 
atsparkinson said:
Any tips for the stainless steel line replacement? Does it require bleed or any special procedures once they are in.. i think i would like to get that done on my 2017... although i havent even inspected the lines.
Click to expand...
If you replace the lines, you will need to bleed the new ones.

As for pads/rotors, I went with the Stop-Tech Truck Axle Packs. They have just a little more initial bite than the factory, but a more progressive feel and you lean into the pedal. Dust is on par with what I saw from ORM pads. So far, so good.

I didn’t like the thought of replacing the rotors with another set of OEM because 38k miles isn’t a lot of life out of a set.
 
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