Lexus in H mode 
Last edited:
Tighe's LX570 - general thread
- Thread starter Tighe
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #182
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #183
$650 for a new fuel sender unit. A bit of a drag as the repair bills for this truck have been higher than expected, but it had to be done. The old one looked brand new too (below). Hopefully this solves my inaccurate fuel gauge issue. 
$650 for a new fuel sender unit. A bit of a drag as the repair bills for this truck have been higher than expected, but it had to be done. The old one looked brand new too (below). Hopefully this solves my inaccurate fuel gauge issue.
View attachment 3095504
I just changed my fuel pump, and really should have changed the sender while I was in there.
Glad you sorted that out.
- Thread starter
- #185
Hi @TeCKis300 !
SD Trux helped me out with this one. The write up to remove the 2nd row seats to access the pump/sender was pretty daunting for me personally, so I opted to have it done professionally. I thought it would’ve been more $$ honestly, but they only charged 3 hours of labor. I think it was fair.
I asked both the owner and the tech if I should change the pump while the tank was dropped and they both (independently) said not to. They said they see the sender fail 10x more often than the pump itself. Out of curiosity, why did you change your pump?
I should note it’s still not confirmed that this resolved my issue- they said the fuel level read higher once the new sender was installed, but it’ll take a while for me to trust it fully. I’m thinking of putting a few gallons of gas in a Jerry can and running it to empty just to confirm. I’ll update if that plan actually takes place!
I had a fuel pressure issue that was causing the car to have idle and stumbling issues. Maybe an isolated issue. But it just maybe systemic too and part of the larger Denso recalls for fuel pumps across many manufacturers over a decade long period.
DIY Fuel Pump Replace
Replaced a fuel pump recently as part of resolving an idle fuel pressure issue. Diagnostic thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/p0171-system-too-lean-fuel-trim.1289672/ Didn't find much documentation on this site so here's my attempt for future reference. Couple strategies to do...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #187
Went on a fun camping trip last weekend in Temecula with two of my kids. Finally got to experience some autumn weather which was a nice change from the heat here in SoCal. On Saturday it started to rain pretty hard, and after being cooped up in the tent it occurred to me that we could do a movie night with the fold down screen in the middle row. This didn't pan out because I couldn't get the tablet (Amazon Fire HD) to register on the screen. I'm using the USB C --> RCA adapter in the link below, but never got any video or audio. I just ordered a USB C --> HDMI adapter, as well as an HDMI --> RCA adapter, so I'll report back on whether that works. That seems to work according to some other threads on here.
This is what I have, and so far I have not gotten it to register on the screen:
Amazon product ASIN B09BMW8BD8
This is what I have, and so far I have not gotten it to register on the screen:
Amazon product ASIN B09BMW8BD8
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #188
I also bit the bullet and drilled into my ARB Flat Rack to secure a few Ram mounts, so I can firmly attach my ladder for the RTT. This is much safer for my kids as the ladder does not move at all. And the full sized ladder is preferable over the tailgate ladder for a variety of reasons.
I also mounted a small aluminum block with a predrilled hole for the pole for the RTT's rain fly. It worked great allowing air in while it was pouring outside. If anyone's looking for one there is a guy on the Go Fast Camper forum who sells them.
I also mounted a small aluminum block with a predrilled hole for the pole for the RTT's rain fly. It worked great allowing air in while it was pouring outside. If anyone's looking for one there is a guy on the Go Fast Camper forum who sells them.
Amazon Fire HD tablets do not support Display Port Alt which is a requirement for any of the USB-C to HDMI/RCA adaptors to work. A laptop would probably work, or the easiest thing to do is get a Fire Stick and an HDMI to RCA adaptor.
I don't have a Fire tablet, but the interwebs seem to be in agreement that all modern Fire Tablets do not support video out.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Looks like a wonderful adventure with the family and 200!
I have also had a hell of time getting the RCA to android and Apple cables to work. What I have noticed is that some android phones are not compatible as well as older iPhones don’t work. My iPhone 8 wouldn’t work while my wife’s 12 worked just fine. Then an older android S8 worked but a newer LG android phone wouldn’t display video….it’s a mess lol. The fine print on the cables for the android and Apple give some info on what models phones are compatible but it’s not always reliable.
- Thread starter
- #191
Awesome, thanks for the info! That’s surprising about the Fire, what a budget piece of tech! I do have an old iPad that’s still clinging to life, I’ll see if I can that to work. Appreciate all the troubleshooting you just saved me from.
- Thread starter
- #192
Copy that, thanks! Looks like I’m starting over now with an early generation iPad. Will update once I get down the road a bit.
- Thread starter
- #193
I tried the alternate route today thanks to @lx200inAR. I didn’t have my old iPad handy to test but I used my iPhone, and it pretty much worked.
Lightning -> HDMI + HDMI -> RCA.
Audio was no issue, video seems to turn from color to black and white randomly. Unplugging and replugging the video RCA cable seems to correct it for a bit, and seems if I plug it in juuussst right it stays in color. Will experiment more with the iPad. Thanks for getting me on the right track @lx200inAR!
Side note- the screen in my 2008 LX is so woefully low res, I already want to upgrade it!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #194
Made a few modifications to my GFC Superlite tent. I still love this thing. The other weekend when we went camping we found ourselves stuck inside the tent due to rain. As the three of us were laying there looking up at the ceiling it occurred to me there may be some room for improvement when it comes to ceiling storage/utility.
I didn’t want to screw through the fabric, or into the honeycomb structure, so I instead epoxied some wood strips, with flat stock steel routed into it, to the ceiling.
Then I bought a bunch of 100lb magnets on Amazon and boom, endless possibilities.
This has the side benefit of curing the sagging ceiling fabric. When I would put something heavy (battery pack, phone, etc) in the built in pockets, the ceiling fabric would hang 5" or so from the shell. Now it’s held tight to the shell by the magnets.
I tried 40lb and 100lb magnets. The 100lb are more appropriate and are still small (1.125" dia.). Water bottles, iPads, etc, area all held securely. I’ve swapped out the carabiners for thinner titanium ones. The aluminum ones were overkill for this purpose.
Lastly, and totally unrelated, I realized I could use a vacuum to inflate/deflate the GFC pad. When inflated, it’s way firmer than when it self inflates. And when deflated it’s very thin. This is particularly useful for me because my truck barely fits in my garage with the tent on. This will help provide a little breathing room...
I didn’t want to screw through the fabric, or into the honeycomb structure, so I instead epoxied some wood strips, with flat stock steel routed into it, to the ceiling.
Then I bought a bunch of 100lb magnets on Amazon and boom, endless possibilities.
This has the side benefit of curing the sagging ceiling fabric. When I would put something heavy (battery pack, phone, etc) in the built in pockets, the ceiling fabric would hang 5" or so from the shell. Now it’s held tight to the shell by the magnets.
I tried 40lb and 100lb magnets. The 100lb are more appropriate and are still small (1.125" dia.). Water bottles, iPads, etc, area all held securely. I’ve swapped out the carabiners for thinner titanium ones. The aluminum ones were overkill for this purpose.
Lastly, and totally unrelated, I realized I could use a vacuum to inflate/deflate the GFC pad. When inflated, it’s way firmer than when it self inflates. And when deflated it’s very thin. This is particularly useful for me because my truck barely fits in my garage with the tent on. This will help provide a little breathing room...
^Liking those mods. Creative way to solve some of the same impressions I had.
For the mattress, I use of these tiny inflator/deflator for mine. Helps a ton with the limited space.
Amazon product ASIN B08D64MK5B
For the mattress, I use of these tiny inflator/deflator for mine. Helps a ton with the limited space.
Amazon product ASIN B08D64MK5B
- Thread starter
- #196
Wow that's an awesome little pump! I didn't know a product like that even existed, thanks for sharing. In your experience does it actually push enough air to reach a sufficient PSI in the pad? I envisioned pumping it up with the shop vac before I left home, and then leaving it pumped up until I returned.
I just found these not too long ago and it's been such a nicety, especially to deflate.
I use this one below with a larger sleeping pad. It's more pump than I really need which is why I suggested the other model. There's tons out there. To answer your question, they definitely can build more than enough pressure. Impressive little things.
Amazon product ASIN B09FT7RJFG
- Thread starter
- #198
Right into the shopping cart...
- Thread starter
- #199
More issues, looking for some guidance before I have the truck towed to my local shop.
A few months back when the fuel sender unit was replaced the battery was also replaced with a new AC Delco unit. I haven’t driven the truck much between then and now, probably once every other week. Yesterday I went to start it up, and no go. Just a click, then nothing. Lights and radio on, but no crank. I put a booster pack on it and was able to get it started up. Drove around the block a few times, put it in my driveway and put a trickle charger on it. Battery trickle charger said the battery was sulfated, and it went into de-sulfate mode, which would take minimum 10 hours.
This morning the battery appeared to be ok. Trickle charger said it was charged, but the truck did not start. Even with a booster pack. Lots of warning lights- check engine, 4lo, CEL, Check VSC, etc. One click then nothing. I then tried jumping it with my Volvo but same thing, one click and it wouldn’t even turn over.
This evening I swapped batteries with my Volvo as a test. The LX battery started up the Volvo without any hesitation. The Volvo battery did not start the LX. Same thing, one click then nothing. Put back on the trickle charger and it looked good, no sulfate warning and the battery appears to be charged.
I get 12.7V between terminals, and I think the same between the battery and the starter, but to be honest I’m not sure I have located the starter correctly.
I read perhaps it’s the immobilizer and have tried a generic Lexus sequence of locking/unlocking with the metal key, but no go.
At this point I’m not sure what else to test. I hoped to get it started with the Volvo battery just to drive it to my local shop, but I can’t even get it started. I hate to call AAA but that’s the next step. Camping trip planned next weekend, assuming I can get this sorted!
Anything I missed? Any other thoughts? Thanks!
A few months back when the fuel sender unit was replaced the battery was also replaced with a new AC Delco unit. I haven’t driven the truck much between then and now, probably once every other week. Yesterday I went to start it up, and no go. Just a click, then nothing. Lights and radio on, but no crank. I put a booster pack on it and was able to get it started up. Drove around the block a few times, put it in my driveway and put a trickle charger on it. Battery trickle charger said the battery was sulfated, and it went into de-sulfate mode, which would take minimum 10 hours.
This morning the battery appeared to be ok. Trickle charger said it was charged, but the truck did not start. Even with a booster pack. Lots of warning lights- check engine, 4lo, CEL, Check VSC, etc. One click then nothing. I then tried jumping it with my Volvo but same thing, one click and it wouldn’t even turn over.
This evening I swapped batteries with my Volvo as a test. The LX battery started up the Volvo without any hesitation. The Volvo battery did not start the LX. Same thing, one click then nothing. Put back on the trickle charger and it looked good, no sulfate warning and the battery appears to be charged.
I get 12.7V between terminals, and I think the same between the battery and the starter, but to be honest I’m not sure I have located the starter correctly.
I read perhaps it’s the immobilizer and have tried a generic Lexus sequence of locking/unlocking with the metal key, but no go.
At this point I’m not sure what else to test. I hoped to get it started with the Volvo battery just to drive it to my local shop, but I can’t even get it started. I hate to call AAA but that’s the next step. Camping trip planned next weekend, assuming I can get this sorted!
Anything I missed? Any other thoughts? Thanks!
It may be worth having the battery tested. I have read through an embarrassing number of service histories. These trucks eat batteries. Maybe the Volvo battery can't quit turn the big v8.More issues, looking for some guidance before I have the truck towed to my local shop.
A few months back when the fuel sender unit was replaced the battery was also replaced with a new AC Delco unit. I haven’t driven the truck much between then and now, probably once every other week. Yesterday I went to start it up, and no go. Just a click, then nothing. Lights and radio on, but no crank. I put a booster pack on it and was able to get it started up. Drove around the block a few times, put it in my driveway and put a trickle charger on it. Battery trickle charger said the battery was sulfated, and it went into de-sulfate mode, which would take minimum 10 hours.
This morning the battery appeared to be ok. Trickle charger said it was charged, but the truck did not start. Even with a booster pack. Lots of warning lights- check engine, 4lo, CEL, Check VSC, etc. One click then nothing. I then tried jumping it with my Volvo but same thing, one click and it wouldn’t even turn over.
This evening I swapped batteries with my Volvo as a test. The LX battery started up the Volvo without any hesitation. The Volvo battery did not start the LX. Same thing, one click then nothing. Put back on the trickle charger and it looked good, no sulfate warning and the battery appears to be charged.
I get 12.7V between terminals, and I think the same between the battery and the starter, but to be honest I’m not sure I have located the starter correctly.
I read perhaps it’s the immobilizer and have tried a generic Lexus sequence of locking/unlocking with the metal key, but no go.
At this point I’m not sure what else to test. I hoped to get it started with the Volvo battery just to drive it to my local shop, but I can’t even get it started. I hate to call AAA but that’s the next step. Camping trip planned next weekend, assuming I can get this sorted!
Anything I missed? Any other thoughts? Thanks!
View attachment 3164809
