Thinking about picking this one up - any thoughts?

[alhutchi]

Looked at this 1969 FJ40 last week, owner has agreed on $5500 for it. Engine starts, doesn't idle and shuts down but sounds ok when its running. He put a 2F carb on it for some reason recently which I think is why it won't idle but he has the original carb still.

Forgive my ignorance, but I'm looking at some things that obviously aren't original (painted light bezel and roof, mirrors attached to doors, exhaust, etc) but wondering if anyone sees any giant red flags here that should make me rethink the purchase?

Only sign of real rust I saw on it was the rear tub sill has diamond plate riveted over it to keep it in place so I'm assuming that will need to be cut out and welded in, but otherwise there was just light surface rust on the underside and frame, maybe a couple pinholes in driver floor but not terrible.

Thanks guys!

 

[alhutchi]

more pics

 

[alhutchi]

even more pics

 

[pbgbottle]

The dash and heater looks later year ,also looks like a 4 spd came with the 2F. Rear driveshaft bolts are loose.

 

[liko]

couple issues….but I would probably buy it. Engine bay pics would be entertaining. Like bottle mentioned-no dash pad, steering wheel not stock, trans/engine swapped, should be a three speed.

That being said there are questions…
1. Exhaust is blowing my mind, never seen a set up like that. I thought I was looking at an extra driveshaft. I see two collectors, two mufflers, maybe three (appears to be a cherry bomb in front of the left muffler) and two pipes out the back. Are they both functional? If so, how? If not, why is there an extra?

2. Original F engine? Assuming original, since u mentioned 2F carb, with an original included. Solid motor, if it does not require rebuild, parts are pricey$$$

3. Could not find the diamond plate you mentioned, but rust looks pretty minor for a 55 yr old 40.

4. What do you want to do with it? Hunting/off road rig? No prob. Daily driver? Doable with some effort. Resto? Cha-Ching, hope you own some bitcoin.

I like it, has character. Good luck

 

[FJ404345]

Is this one of the last left over FJ40 in Costa Rica ?

.

 

[alhutchi]

The dash and heater looks later year ,also looks like a 4 spd came with the 2F. Rear driveshaft bolts are loose.

honestly I'm not sure if the motor is an F or 2F - it definitely has a 4-speed now.

 

[alhutchi]

couple issues….but I would probably buy it. Engine bay pics would be entertaining. Like bottle mentioned-no dash pad, steering wheel not stock, trans/engine swapped, should be a three speed.

That being said there are questions…
1. Exhaust is blowing my mind, never seen a set up like that. I thought I was looking at an extra driveshaft. I see two collectors, two mufflers, maybe three (appears to be a cherry bomb in front of the left muffler) and two pipes out the back. Are they both functional? If so, how? If not, why is there an extra?

2. Original F engine? Assuming original, since u mentioned 2F carb, with an original included. Solid motor, if it does not require rebuild, parts are pricey$$$

3. Could not find the diamond plate you mentioned, but rust looks pretty minor for a 55 yr old 40.

4. What do you want to do with it? Hunting/off road rig? No prob. Daily driver? Doable with some effort. Resto? Cha-Ching, hope you own some bitcoin.

I like it, has character. Good luck

I did look at this in person but I stopped quickly in the middle of a road trip and had my wife and dog in the car so I wasn't as thorough as I would have liked.

I am unsure if its an F or 2F engine to be honest - it runs pretty well but cuts out due to fuel issues. I agree exhaust needs to go - it has headers on it (though those bolts are loose too) so my only thought is they ran straight pipes from either side?

The diamond plate i saw in person on the rear sill, which I don't have pictures of - the rear sill will definitely need to be cut out and replaced but that's not too terrible.

I'm not looking to do a full on resto of this but would like to clean it up and make it a decent driver for around town. I should note, my profile shows Costa Rica but that's old data, I'm in the US now so this is not a Costa Rica spec vehicle.

 

[msapers]

It would be worth doing a compression test if you plan on keeping the stock engine. Rebuild parts for the F are expensive. It will be worse than miserable to drive at low speed with that small steering wheel unless it has power steering. Other than that, I would pick it up. Here's my 10 step plan:

1. Buy or download a Factory Service Manual.
2. Go through the brake system, replace any worn, leaking or cracked parts, adjust brakes.
3. Knuckle rebuild (while you have the front brakes apart)
3. Go through the steering system, replace worn parts and lube everything.
4. Check every single bolt on the vehicle for tightness.
5. Change all fluids in the engine, radiator, transmission, transfer case, both axles, brake system and clutch system.
6. New belts and hoses.
7. Tune up (points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, fuel filter, air filter.
8. There are a few carburetor gurus here that understand these carbs better than Toyota did and offer rebuilding services. You can't go wrong with any of them.
9. Check and repair electrical system as needed to ensure functionality of all lights, gauges, etc.
10. Drive it regularly for a year before you get into any type of body work or restoration. 40s aren't for everyone so make sure you like it before you blow it apart and spend thousands of dollars and years of your life to make it perfect.

If you can love it for what it is, an FJ40 is never the wrong choice. Good luck and keep us updated. We love pictures and build threads.

 

[alhutchi]

Here's a link to a video the guy sent of the engine running.

 

[alhutchi]

It would worth doing a compression test if you plan on keeping the stock engine. Rebuild parts for the F are expensive. It will be worse than miserable to drive at low speed with that small steering wheel unless it has power steering. Other than that, I would pick it up. Here's my 10 step plan:

1. Buy or download a Factory Service Manual.
2. Go through the brake system, replace any worn, leaking or cracked parts, adjust brakes.
3. Knuckle rebuild (while you have the front brakes apart)
3. Go through the steering system, replace worn parts and lube everything.
4. Check every single bolt on the vehicle for tightness.
5. Change all fluids in the engine, radiator, transmission, transfer case, both axles, brake system and clutch system.
6. New belts and hoses.
7. Tune up (points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, fuel filter, air filter.
8. There are a few carburetor gurus here that understand these carbs better than Toyota did and offer rebuilding services. You can't go wrong with any of them.
9. Check and repair electrical system as needed to ensure functionality of all lights, gauges, etc.
10. Drive it regularly for a year before you get into any type of body work or restoration. 40s aren't for everyone so make sure you like it before you blow it apart and spend thousands of dollars and years of your life to make it perfect.

If you can love it for what it is, an FJ40 is never the wrong choice. Good luck and keep us updated. We love pictures and build threads.

Thanks so much for this! I just posted a video of the engine running. I should note the current owner just added the dual master cylinder and replaced all the brake lines. Currently the throttle cable is snapped but he has a replacement included...it is not running/driving at the moment.

I've had a 1996 HZJ70 when I lived in Costa Rica and currently have a 2024 Land Cruiser 250 (Prado, I know) - definitely a bit of a fanboy and always wanted an FJ40.

 

[aging fleet]

I know I'd spend a fortune on parts trying to get it running, stopping, and looking more original. The $5,500 price tag would balloon up to something closer to what I could've paid for a more complete example. If you're like me, maybe pass. If you're able to fight the urge to fix all the little details and can just enjoy it for what it is, then go for it.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Intake and exhaust leak to my ears. Valves need adjusted too, timing seems off. Hook up a direct read oil pressure gauge and see what it shows.

 

[pb4ugo]

I know I'd spend a fortune on parts trying to get it running, stopping, and looking more original. The $5,500 price tag would balloon up to something closer to what I could've paid for a more complete example. If you're like me, maybe pass. If you're able to fight the urge to fix all the little details and can just enjoy it for what it is, then go for it.

Well said. The a lot of little things can add up quickly.

In the video it doesnt sound like it's hitting on all cylinders.

 

[Pighead]

That is an F engine, with what looks like the '69 intake manifold.

 

[Augustiron]

"there are the known unknowns and the unknown unknowns...."

 

[Pighead]

"there are the known unknowns and the unknown unknowns...."

Here's one; In the video I see what looks like a brass fitting attached to the air injection port on the head at cylinder #1 with a hose that leads aft. It reminds me of a vacuum line. WTF?

 

[Living in the Past]

Here's one; In the video I see what looks like a brass fitting attached to the air injection port on the head at cylinder #1 with a hose that leads aft. It reminds me of a vacuum line. WTF?

Looks like the 68/69 intake. My 9/67 68 model still has the original F145. Couldn't tell if I see plugs for an air rail. 69 model had the didn't.

No pictures of the rear sill is a big concern. These are just a simple welded in piece. The entire back end is built around it. Quarter panels and floor are tied into it. The floor extends all the way back and folded over going half down the sill the 90° bend add strength to the floor. On top of they is a cap over the rear sill. Never seen any rear sill replaced that is made like the original sill up to 1/79.

 

[alhutchi]

Looks like the 68/69 intake. My 9/67 68 model still has the original F145. Couldn't tell if I see plugs for an air rail. 69 model had the didn't.

No pictures of the rear sill is a big concern. These are just a simple welded in piece. The entire back end is built around it. Quarter panels and floor are tied into it. The floor extends all the way back and folded over going half down the sill the 90° bend add strength to the floor. On top of they is a cap over the rear sill. Never seen any rear sill replaced that is made like the original sill up to 1/79.

Rear sill on this will need replaced - someone riveted diamond plate over it to reinforce but it will need to be properly fixed.

I didn’t realize the sill was such a challenging job, I thought it would be rather straightforward to weld a new one in?

 

[Augustiron]

Difficulty of rear sill depends on :

1) how much adjacent metal is challenged (floor, quarters, wheel wells)
2) how good of a welder/fabricator you or your wallet is
3) how strong you can resist the "while I'm there..." Urge to fix all the rust/sheet metal that needs attention.

Many years-long frame off restos started with the humble goal to fix the rotten rear sill....