Builds TheGrrrrr Build Thread - 2013 LC

[TheGrrrrr]

Front ring gear seemed to have picked up some debris in the bolt threads (possibly during REM processing) which required a tap to chase the threads. The threads are actually a 12mm x 1mm which apparently took some some work to find a tap for. Once it was found and the threads were cleared, everything was back on track.

 

[Markuson]

Well some sad news to report this evening. I had to say goodbye to my best friend and the original reason I ended up with a Range Rover that lit my fire for off-roading. Hank was as good a dog and friend as ever walked the earth and I'll forever be grateful for him. Without him, there is no Range Rover and no Land Cruiser and I wouldn't have met all of you. The friendships I've made in this community will always be part of his legacy.

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His heart made his body look small by comparison and nobody didn't love "The Big Guy"

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One last shot...

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Love ya, bud.

So very sorry, Matt. It hurts. My dog was killed in his prime a year ago next week & I still leak over it. It hurts. Glad you had a great one. He was lucky to have you.
Good dog…good dude.

m

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Last few photos from Zuk:

One important note:

"...nobody has corrected the wrong drill size for drilling the hole for the rubber grommet pass through... The Eaton instructions say half inch hole and I know it needs to be 29/64" or a smidge more so I use a .463" drill and the rubber grommet fits very snugly and will not fall out or leak oil"

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Last update before install:

Zuk replaces all of the kit seals with genuine factory seals to avoid leaks, which he has learned the hard way.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Dropped the thirds at my mechanic’s shop today for install. Did some checking around the underside and noticed a lot of bushings are trashed. Front lower control arms and sway bar links are pretty bad. Probably going to replace both sets entirely. These are the sway bar links:

 

[linuxgod]

From what I've seen those sway bar end links really seem to need replacement around 100k miles. Maybe they're still serviceable (actually I suppose they are because mine look similar at 120k and I'm still running them) but the rubber definitely cracks earlier than I'd expect.

LCA bushings are replaceable but for the ~$550 it costs for a pair of LCA's I'd just swap them so you get new LBJ's too. If you pull the LCA's I recommend applying copious anti-seize on the bolts as they're known to corrode (though being in AZ that might be less of an issue for you)

If you're swapping end links and what not, now's the time to get that KDSS relo kit and mount the end links on the outside of the LCA so you can gain tire clearance around the KDSS

 

[kcjaz]

If you're swapping end links and what not, now's the time to get that KDSS relo kit and mount the end links on the outside of the LCA so you can gain tire clearance around the KDSS

Is there any downside, as in creating other potential issues with the KDSS relo?

 

[TheGrrrrr]

From what I've seen those sway bar end links really seem to need replacement around 100k miles. Maybe they're still serviceable (actually I suppose they are because mine look similar at 120k and I'm still running them) but the rubber definitely cracks earlier than I'd expect.

LCA bushings are replaceable but for the ~$550 it costs for a pair of LCA's I'd just swap them so you get new LBJ's too. If you pull the LCA's I recommend applying copious anti-seize on the bolts as they're known to corrode (though being in AZ that might be less of an issue for you)

If you're swapping end links and what not, now's the time to get that KDSS relo kit and mount the end links on the outside of the LCA so you can gain tire clearance around the KDSS

I'm still under the Carmax warranty (to 125,000 miles or October 2024), which at least for Doug Demuro's Range Rover, covered the LCA and maybe would cover the sway bar links. I've had the KDSS relo kit on the shelf for over a year, but holding off until the warranty is up. Also just noticed that the Stoptech Z36 Brake Kit I've like so much, has cracked pads on the rear left and front right corners, so looking into other options there. Also the front axle nuts were a nightmare to take off, so ordered new ones. My indy shop said I would never have been able to get them off on a trail for a CV replacement. Not that I have that level of skill anyway.

Any other bushings or plastic/rubber that breaks down around 100k miles I should look for?

 

[TheGrrrrr]

107,010 miles:

Regrear complete: Revolution 4.88; Cryo and REM treatment, 75W-90 Gear Oil

Eaton eLockers installed but not yet wired up.

Oil Change: 0W-20

All known lube points lubed including suspension and driveline.

StopTech Z36 Brake Pads replaced with new due to hairline cracking. Wear was even, no other issues identified. Warranty process TBD

 

[linuxgod]

ECT PWR is now Turbo Boost for you

 

[TheGrrrrr]

ECT PWR is now Turbo Boost for you

Haven’t tried that yet, but I suspect it will be delightful.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

For posterity, posted elsewhere. Wiring install pics to be added when the rain stops.

 

[OffRoadScott]

great build and great write up too.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

110,217 Mile Update: A few things knocked out this week. Oil change finally switching to Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w-30. I swear I can feel it running smoother, even though I know that’s very unlikely. I do get more dynamic movement from the oil gauge under acceleration. Previously stayed pretty static and rarely moved much above 1/4 and now it swings up just a smidge past 1/2 under heavy acceleration.

Also installed Timbren Active Offroad bump stops. Haven't really felt like I needed them, but they exist and I was bored/tired of working on my house.

After that I installed Diode Dynamics Amber Flood as Chase lights wired into my Garmin PowerSwitch that is hooked up to the lithium aux battery. Set up the new buttons in the app and works great.

Also since the last updates I have wired my lockers and ARB “Triple” to my other Garmin PowerSwitch that is connected to the starting battery. Will connect the winch power trigger at some point. Also added some buttons to the app for those.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

LCDC 8 Preparations:

Mounted up the iPad Air (wifi only) and added 4G LTE Hotspot and Bluetooth GPS in support. Running navigation (Waze, Google Maps (with download maps for offline, OnX Offroad (with downloaded maps for trails), entertainment (Spotify mostly) and Garmin PowerSwitch (Lights and Lockers) on iPad. Streaming audio from iPad is delivered over vehicle bluetooth.

This frees up my phone for displaying additional gauges via OBD Fusion and generally making the phone more available for taking photos and other tasks without disrupting navigation, entertainment etc. This is particularly useful on the trail when exiting the vehicle and wanting to have phone handy without having to get everything set back up upon getting back in the vehicle.

Escort Max 360 is also connected via bluetooth to the iPad so alerts are audible over the vehicle audio system and not drowned out by music.

HAM radio is the same setup for the past year-ish having moved from the Icom 5100a to the Yaesu FTM-400XDR for better APRS functions.

 

[CWolg]

LCDC 8 Preparations:

Mounted up the iPad Air (wifi only) and added 4G LTE Hotspot and Bluetooth GPS in support. Running navigation (Waze, Google Maps (with download maps for offline, OnX Offroad (with downloaded maps for trails), entertainment (Spotify mostly) and Garmin PowerSwitch (Lights and Lockers) on iPad. Streaming audio from iPad is delivered over vehicle bluetooth.

This frees up my phone for displaying additional gauges via OBD Fusion and generally making the phone more available for taking photos and other tasks without disrupting navigation, entertainment etc. This is particularly useful on the trail when exiting the vehicle and wanting to have phone handy without having to get everything set back up upon getting back in the vehicle.

Escort Max 360 is also connected via bluetooth to the iPad so alerts are audible over the vehicle audio system and not drowned out by music.

HAM radio is the same setup for the past year-ish having moved from the Icom 5100a to the Yaesu FTM-400XDR for better APRS functions.

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Very cool. Any chance you could share another picture or two of how/where you have the Yaesu display mounted to the console? I have been struggling to decide where to mount mine. I have a small section of RAM track mounted above the main screen, but am wondering if there is a more discreet place to put it.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Very cool. Any chance you could share another picture or two of how/where you have the Yaesu display mounted to the console? I have been struggling to decide where to mount mine. I have a small section of RAM track mounted above the main screen, but am wondering if there is a more discreet place to put it.

The Yaesu is on a CD slot mount. Works great. LM-200 CD Mount For Yaesu FTM-100 FTM-200 FTM-300 FTM-350 FTM-400 FT-891 - https://www.lidoradio.com/products/lm-200-cd-mount-for-yaesu-ftm-100-ftm-300-ftm-350-ftm-400-ft-891

 

[CWolg]

The Yaesu is on a CD slot mount. Works great. LM-200 CD Mount For Yaesu FTM-100 FTM-200 FTM-300 FTM-350 FTM-400 FT-891 - https://www.lidoradio.com/products/lm-200-cd-mount-for-yaesu-ftm-100-ftm-300-ftm-350-ftm-400-ft-891

Oh very cool. Thanks!

 

[kcjaz]

Also since the last updates I have wired my lockers and ARB “Triple” to my other Garmin PowerSwitch that is connected to the starting battery. Will connect the winch power trigger at some point. Also added some buttons to the app for those.

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So your PowerSwitch activates the stock CDL when u hit "Tripple Locked"?

 

[TheGrrrrr]

So your PowerSwitch activates the stock CDL when u hit "Tripple Locked"?

No, I lock that with the OEM button, but because I have it locked just about any time I'm off-road anyway...