I believe the correct part number is 90467-10216. 10210 is too large
The official part number request thread
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Yeah maybe this Saturday if the weather holds. The Slee skids are durable but a PITA to drop in my driveway
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- #723
Ah, yeah, looks like the number changed at some point. 10210 is called for on earlier rigs.
None of the other parts changed so it’s odd this one did..
check out Eskonke threadlocker. supposedly their stuff tested better than Loctite, JB weld thread locker, etc per torque test YT channel. I've reached out to CCN (all hail his name) and cannot yet post his decree.
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- #726
FSM doesn't call for loctite on the bolts. You're seeing RTV for the sealed interface that squeezed into the holes.
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- #728
No. I’d recommend getting the FSM.. the timing cover install is pretty complex, with different RTV bead sizes depending on where on the cover it is applied. Plus there are 29 bolts of 6 different kinds all with specific locations and a couple different torque values.
It’ll line out exactly what is needed. Thread locker is not on that list.
Probably stupid question, but what are the FSM and RTV stand for?
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- #730
Factory service manual, and RTV is silicon form-a-gasket. Technically Toyota refers to it as FIPG, form in place gasket.
This.
Follow the timing cover bolt size/torque diagram. It helps to label the bolt heads with sharpie (A, B, C, etc.). Do this for the bolt holes on the cover, too.
Follow the tightening sequence…
Use a torque wrench.
Do not use thread locker.
Take care and DO NOT roll the o-rings on the short coolant passthrough pipe when you place the timing cover. Use a touch of silicone spray or some coolant to lubricate the o-rings but make sure whatever you use contains no petroleum distillates and is rubber safe.
Clock your oil pump to the correct position so it doesn’t get hung up when you’re trying to place the timing cover with fresh FIPG/RTV/silicone gasket.
Use the repair manual diagram when applying the FIPG. Place the cover within 3-5 minutes of applying the FIPG. Don’t let it “skin over.”
After you place the front cover, put all the bolts in the correct locations, run them all in and lightly snug everything (I use a little 1/4” stubby ratchet). Then, go over all of them with your torque wrench.
Again, follow the tightening sequence…
Let it sit about 6 hours before putting any oil in it.
Replying to myself, it appears the coolant leak is actually at the top of the engine. It’s either the oil cooler supply or return hose near the upper radiator hose. Pink, crusty, and wet down there. I think these are the right parts. Getting to it is going to be a PITFA I’m sure
| Part Number | Part Name | Price | Quantity | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 99556-20200 | Heater Hose | $8.57 | 1 | $8.57 |
| 90466-A0018 | Clamp | $3.15 | 2 | $6.30 |
2013 LC build date 07/13
Looking for, in order of importance;
Looking for, in order of importance;
- Front and rear differential drain plug crush washers
- Transfer case drain plug washer
- Factory service manual
- This AUDM black grille, if there's a version compatible with radar cruise that would be a bonus.
(H) = Hex
(S) = Socket Regular
(M) = Magnetic
what I am going with is in green. I don't think the fill plugs need magnets..
(S) = Socket Regular
(M) = Magnetic
what I am going with is in green. I don't think the fill plugs need magnets..
